Getting Started With High Tech

[laritheloud]

Okay, so after swearing I wouldn't get pressurized CO2... I completely reversed course and got a CO2 art system and a 5 pound cylinder. 

For someone who is just getting started with CO2, how should I adjust my lights and fert schedule to start? I'm not doing EI yet. I was previously dosing ferts 1 x per week (3 pumps easy green into my 29 gallon plus 2 pumps iron, more than that instigated staghorn algae bloom). I have lights on max for 6 hours every day, CO2 starting up 1 hour before max lights (I use the Finnex Planted + 24/7 and am around most days to adjust as needed) and 1 hour before lights out for a total of 6 hours runtime. I adjusted the dose to end up with a flat 1 point PH drop with injections.

Should I keep up with once per week fert dosing for now, or should I bump it up to twice? What signs should I look for that more ferts are needed?

[Isaac M]

Hi @laritheloud, I would personally recommend starting out on the lower end of all 3 of the co2, light and nutrients and increase as needed. It is easier to prevent things getting out of balance that way. As for signs to increase ferts, you will see nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Here is an article from aquarium co-op addressing these nutrient deficiencies. For lighting, you will often see growth that is very tall and thin rather than compact growth if your lighting is not strong enough. Some high light plants will grow slowly.

I will say, it is very likely that you will need to increase your ferts from what you were doing without co2 as co2 is often the limiting factor for plant growth. Plant growth is accelerated with increased co2 and therefore increases nutrient consumption. I would monitor my plants for nutrient deficiencies and increase the ferts as needed. 

[laritheloud]

1 minute ago, Isaac M said:

Hi @laritheloud, I would personally recommend starting out on the lower end of all 3 of the co2, light and nutrients and increase as needed. It is easier to prevent things getting out of balance that way. As for signs to increase ferts, you will see nutrient deficiencies in your plants. Here is an article from aquarium co-op addressing these nutrient deficiencies. For lighting, you will often see growth that is very tall and thin rather than compact growth if your lighting is not strong enough. Some high light plants will grow slowly.

I will say, it is very likely that you will need to increase your ferts from what you were doing without co2 as co2 is often the limiting factor for plant growth. Plant growth is accelerated with increased co2 and therefore increases nutrient consumption. I would monitor my plants for nutrient deficiencies and increase the ferts as needed. 

sounds good! I'll wait a few weeks between changes, too, and keep everything on the lower end and increase slowly. Thank you!

[Mmiller2001]

I would go no less than 8 hours of light. That's a 1 hour ramp up and a 1 hour ramp down. I also recommend dosing daily, similar to either EI or PPS.  And dosing 1 hour before lights on. Unfortunately, Easy Green isn't going to cut it long term alone. I highly recommend researching the various fertilizing systems that are used by the top aquarists. Pick one, and learn it. Blindly pumping an all in 1 is going to be problematic. Learning ratios and knowing the exact ppm of each component is important to know and will allow you to understand how each affect the plants. 

I recommend dry fertilizers; just off cost alone, but if you want to stay "all in one" Thrive+ is well balanced.

This is going to be your best friend: https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php 

Best beginner CO2 information I could find: https://www.2hraquarist.com/

[laritheloud]

Just now, Mmiller2001 said:

I would go no less than 8 hours of light. That's a 1 hour ramp up and a 1 hour ramp down. I also recommend dosing daily, similar to either EI or PPS.  And dosing 1 hour before lights on. Unfortunately, Easy Green isn't going to cut it long term alone. I highly recommend researching the various fertilizing systems that are used by the top aquarists. Pick one, and learn it. Blindly pumping an all in 1 is going to be problematic. Learning ratios and knowing the exact ppm of each component is important to know and will allow you to understand how each affect the plants. 

I recommend dry fertilizers; just off cost alone, but if you want to stay "all in one" Thrive+ is well balanced.

This is going to be your best friend: https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php 

Best beginner CO2 information I could find: https://www.2hraquarist.com/

I was planning long term on switching away from Easy Green and looking into Nilcog THRIVE or one of the GLA EI systems. I've been reading the 2hraquarist like CRAZY and that resource has been intensely helpful. I'll bookmark rotala butterfly for use, thank you!

[Mmiller2001]

7 minutes ago, laritheloud said:

I was planning long term on switching away from Easy Green and looking into Nilcog THRIVE or one of the GLA EI systems. I've been reading the 2hraquarist like CRAZY and that resource has been intensely helpful. I'll bookmark rotala butterfly for use, thank you!

Does your pH drop take you below a 7.0pH? If it does, go Thrive+

Edited May 13, 2021 by Mmiller2001

[laritheloud]

3 minutes ago, Mmiller2001 said:

Does your pH drop take you below a 7.0pH?

Water from the tap is an 8.0pH with an alkaline kH of 10 to 11 (depending on the day... starts changing color around 10 drops). I measure at around a 6.8 to 7 ph at max concentration, but I kicked it down a little bit from there to start to keep it at a more comfortable 7 to 7.2 pH.

[Mmiller2001]

Just now, laritheloud said:

Water from the tap is an 8.0pH with an alkaline kH of 10 to 11 (depending on the day... starts changing color around 10 drops). I measure at around a 6.8 to 7 ph at max concentration, but I kicked it down a little bit from there to start to keep it at a more comfortable 7 to 7.2 pH.

Okay, at those pH's, Thrive then.

You will see on fertilizers EDTA and/ or DTPA. EDTA for pH below 7, DTPA for pH above 7. They also have combos now too, marked EDTA+DTPA.

[laritheloud]

Just now, Mmiller2001 said:

Okay, at those pH's, Thrive then.

You will see on fertilizers EDTA and/ or DTPA. EDTA for pH below 7, DTPA for pH above 7. They also have combos now too, marked EDTA+DTPA.

Thank you! That'll help me with what to look out for when I go fert shopping.