Mmiller2001

The contra will pull no matter what’s on top of it. There’s still flow throughout the substrate. Just go with the Salty shrimp until it’s used up and then I would go with what I mentioned. When that time comes, message me and we will get the amounts needed.

These plants grow exceptionally well in low pH as most plants available to us prefer low pH. The Salty Shrimp is fine but very expensive. Just know the Contra soil is going to pull out carbonates no matter which route you chose and constantly adding KH, having the substrate pull it out and adding back will create instability. Your best bet is to ignore pH and focus on GH. The best products for GH are CaSO4 and MgSO4 (Epsom's salt). They are both dirt cheap and give you complete control. For KH, if you go this route, K2SO4 (potassium carbonate) is dirt cheap also and can be dosed to precision. It's available on Amazon and will last you many years. Look for food grade or lab grade.

Only use distilled water when mixing nutrients. Macro solutions can just be placed in a dark area. You can also add about 1ml of Glut to the mix if you are worried about mold.

EG is EDTA chelated and will need to be dosed higher with a pH of 7. So yes, increase dosing.

Then I would start at 2ppm and maybe up to 4ppm if need be.

Using CO2?

I hate making solutions but that’s the way to go. Just make it dilute. Say 10ml of solution for the amount you want to dose. I bought a gram scale with 100ths calibration for small amounts as this.

Making a solution would work. What amount of teaspoons is it saying?

I believe it has to do with solubility issues and the plants ability to uptake P. I’m not a biologist but @Seattle_Aquarist could probably explain it.

Just go off PO4 ppm.

Bulk Reef Supply has good units. Local hydroponic stores sell units also and can be less expensive.

The big NBAT Dutch guys seem to stay around the 1-3mm grain size.

Should be fine to do that. This is why I go dry fertilizer, because that’s expensive water.

I wouldn’t go 10ppm right away. Just increase your dose by a quarter to a third and give it some time while observing.

Just wave your hand over the surface. Going too deep will cause problems. Every couple of years you could do a deep clean but you’ll need a few back to back 90% water changes after a deep clean. Root tabs are pointless IMO.

Great advice here. I’ve since lowered my tank temps to around upper 74 to lower 75.

Looks like GSA, I’d raise PO4 a third more than what you were previously dosing. The internet likes to demonize PO4 for some reason. I keep my tank at 10ppm PO4. Having it this high has always stopped GSA.

Plants are in serious micro deficiency. Make the light interval a continuous 8 hours and decrease pH to 6.5 by lowering KH. Get rid of the molly so you can lower KH without worry and to allow better micro absorption because easy green is EDTA chelated. Increase water changes to 50% every 7 days and alter the ratio mix to lower KH to 15ppm (less than 1dKH). Before each water change, wave your hand over the substrate to get all the muck in the water column then do the 50 water change. After the water change, dose enough Easy Green to bring Nitrates up to 20-25ppm and dose to maintain 20 to 25 ppm Nitrates throughout the week.

Crank up light intensity.

It literally was some rhizomes and black edges and BBA stems. My wife was like, you’re putting that in the tank? I’ll try splitting it up tonight and see how it does. It’s still struggling but it’s definitely unique.

Wow, she really grew in!. Must have been a fulfilling trim session 😆

It’s a rarer type, can’t remember the name he told me.

I keep mine in 5.2dGH and near 0dKH and pH of 5.0. Tank bred.

That and I wanted a bit larger grain size. @gjcarew look familiar? Talk about slow but it’s resurrecting.

Maybe because I’ve done this several times now. But I think sand is just easier to remove and less muck.