Mmiller2001

I like 3:1.

I will add the injection rate was less for this build versus my 20 inch Cerges reactor on the 75 gallon to achieve about the same pH drop. I consider this a big deal and a selling point for this design. Tomorrow will tell me more. I need to find the injection rate which hits my target pH at light on, and holds that pH drop at peak CO2 uptake. And find the off time while still holding near peak CO2 until the light turns off.

Length and diameter for sure. I achieved a pH drop from 7.35 to 6.25. I will continue testing over the next few days. I added a drop checker late today just to visually verify the pH drop, but it was late and had to leave for dinner so I couldn't verify it this evening. As soon as the CO2 turned on, there was slow creek trickling like noise.. So it being silent could be an issue, at least for my build.

Raise phosphates to stop GSA. A root tab every 2 weeks? Way too much. In the picture you posted, the tank is pretty dirty, that's one source of the algae problems. How much Easy Green are you dosing? And how many gallons is the tank? How are you measuring CO2?

Basically, you create a lazy river under a column of CO2. This large surface area contact diffuses the CO2 into the water and is carried to the tank. To picture it, imagine an artic ice sheet over the ocean; where the ice is the CO2 and the water has current under the ice. The contact area melts that ice and pulls it along the current.

The shallow boy is breathing CO2. What a chore. So, I guess I'm testing how a horizontal CO2 reactor works. The gentleman that came up with the design, created a CO2 spray bar and it works off the same principle. The only difference is the Horizontal Reactor isn't visible. Hopefully the horizontal Reactor works and works just as well. Here's the link if you are curious how it works. I went to Ace Hardware, so total cost was about 25 bucks. https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/horizontal-co2-reactor-estimations-for-a-big-tank-or-small-tank.70766/#post-708451 And here's his CO2 spray bar. https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/co2-spray-bar.69554/ This is a genius if this works. Here's some pictures of my instillation.

I had 1 fish near the top so ended treatment. H2O2 instantly nullifies PP. Repeating it tomorrow and a big water change tonight.

Thanks, the potassium permanganate went brown fast, so dosed half of my original dose and it's now holding pink better. Almost an hour in. I need 4 hours of treatment, but will treat again tomorrow even if I can't get the PP to hold for 4 hours.

Started treatment.

Just get a good setup, you need one that's stable.

I was a noob too. I would encourage you to use it. It's a game changer and opens many doors for a beautiful planted tank.

I'm going to document how I'm going to inject CO2 in such a large tank. It's a method another person came up with that hasn't been tested yet, at least publicly on forums. He reached out to me and is assisting me along the way. It's honestly brilliant, and is so simple. I hope it works.

The twig is already sinking, but the stump is going to take a while for sure. The larger branches currently in the 75 still want to float and it's been several months now.

Good advice. I should probably glue rocks to it's base so it will be hidden under the sand. The twig is Spider, not sure if the stump is Spider or something else. Spider floats for a while so it's possible the stump is Spider. I bought it several years ago and can't remember.

No, it's probably one of the more extreme parasite treatments available. Kills bacteria as well.

Thank you. Trying to go into the new tank as disease free as possible. Dosing the 75 on Tuesday, plants and fish. I've tried every med in the book. I have some pesky parasite and hopefully this solves the problem. I will update how it goes.

How long of a duration? 20 minutes?

@Colu Would you know a plant dip recipe using Potassium Permanganate?

As you mention, Neutral Regulator uses phosphates to buffer the water and as a result, raises P very high. I would stop using it as it's not needed. I'd also stop using a siesta because you are dosing CO2 and is completely unnecessary. If you are doing it for viewing pleasure, simply change the light schedule to come on when you are home and run the light continuously for the duration (8 hours is a good duration). The BBA is a result of low and fluctuating CO2, you need to get the CO2 right and keep it stable. Do large and consistent water changes and dose nutrients to keep your ppm targets. Unless you have a species requirement, I would ignore KH and stop trying to maintain a higher value. I run 0dKH and a fluctuating pH is not a stability indicator. As many do, because of misinformation, want to keep a certain KH; using Potassium Carbonate/ bicarbonate is the better option to raise KH.

If you use salty shrimp, I would only measure TDS as that's more important. I keep all my Cherry shrimp in lower TDS and 0KH. PH swing and pH crashes are never going to kill fish or shrimp. These are nothing more than wives tales. Sudden, extreme TDS movement and unmaintained tanks kill fish and shrimp.

Thank you.

Thank you.

I bet it's fine to use. Like all soils, they deplete over time and roots tabs can be used when that happens. As long as it holds form for a good while would sell me. If it turns to mud too quick, I would try to find something else.

It came with the tank as a package through Innovative Marine (APS stand).

Fish won't have access to it, but I think I may have solved my co2 reactor issue without needing paint.