Sumson

I'm not 100% sure but it looks like hemigraphis colorata which is not a true aquatic plant and will eventually die underwater.

You can also look into the following genuses as they have some species that are also native to Borneo: - aridarum - homalomena - piptospatha - schismatoglottis

I use this one from home depot. I like gel because it is less runny and makes it easier to work with. This bottle lasts a long time for me.

That's good to hear! I hope the best for you and I'm looking forward to your planted scape.

I agree with @ScottieB. The lava rock at the bottom will also help with planting because fluval stratum is a pretty light substrate and plants can often become uprooted.

Had a group of six of these guys before. They would always nibble on my arm whenever I did maintenance and they did manage to breed in my community tank. Like @Hoi Polloi said, they did not eat too much algae.

For now, I would reduce the light while getting you're doing the changes. Whenever I set up a new tank I leave the light low then slowly ramp up so if I notice algae I can reduce the light and see what is causing it.

I only grow anubias and bucephalandra really so I one under the larger plants about 4 months apart. I also dose a lean fertilizer in the water column. My friend who has a Dutch planted Aquarium puts them 1-2 inches apart every three months like most people

I also use osmocote for my planted tank but I place the individual pearls into the substrate rather than in a pill capsule. Though if you are going with pill capsules, it is often cheaper to buy the capsules and osmocote to make it yourself.

Nope! I believe it will be fine with a tight fitting lid.

@Mmiller2001 Is correct about the co2 and o2. Without good gas exchange this can also end up gassing your livestock in your tank so it is important to have good surface agitation when injecting co2.

I didn't have the patience to do the three day soak so I did two to three table spoons per gallon and let it soak for three to four hours. It worked for my anubias when I did it.

I found that my cherry shrimp would only eat BBA after I spot dose excel on it.

I use Omega one shrimp pellets which works pretty well. But I also feed sinking bug bites and sinking northfin food as well

If you are worried about nutrients you can always add root tabs to the sand as well

Diffuser Size: For a tank that large, its better to do an external co2 reactor or inline diffuser to get adequate co2 levels in your tank. If you do decide to do a diffuser then you're right it'll be better to get a larger one. The size of the diffuser should not impact the size of the bubbles that come out because that relies on the material that the diffuser disk is made of. Drops/minute: So this is bubbles per minute and this is an old inaccurate way of measuring co2 because each bubble counter will have different amounts of co2. So if I'm doing 30 bubbles per minute it could be drastically different than someone else also doing 30 bubbles per minute. This explains a good way to measure for good co2 levels. You check your Kh and Ph values and compare it to the chart. Anything in the green is good levels of co2 while blue is deficient and red is too much. I added a photo of the chart down below. Drop checkers can work but they take around 1-2 hours to change colours. It is also important that co2 turns on 30 minutes to an hour before the lights turn on the make sure there are adequate levels of co2 for the plants when the lights turn on. Diffuser flow: If you do decide to a diffuser, you want to have a circular flow across your tank to make sure you have even co2 levels across your tank. The photo I put below will show a good example of how the flow of your tank can be to ensure good circulation of co2. It came from here.

Looks like hygrophila corymbosa to me but hopefully someone else can chime in as well.

Looking good so far! I found this article about dutch aquascapes and it goes into depth about plant choices if you were still trying to reduce it. I can't wait to see the end result!

Check out welding supply shops, fire extinguisher refillers, and hydroponic stores nearby. They often have CO2 tanks cheaper than aquarium stores.

I find that spot dosing peroxide or glutaraldehyde on the leaves will make it easier for shrimp and snails to eat some algae types. IMO though I would cut off the leaves that are more than 50% covered and let the plant grow new leaves.

That looks like green or black beard algae on the leaves and rocks. I agree with @Guppysnail, cutting off the most affected leaves would be the best. Edit: That plant looks like anubias coffeefolia