Roko
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Posts posted by Roko
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@James Black tnx on reply.
I tried zucchini with ottos they didn't came close to it. But maybe gobys and hillstream loaches would like that. Any other suggestions?
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Wanted to chek what do you guys feed your algae grazers fish i have Sewilia Lineolata(hillstream loach), ottocincluses and stiphodon atropurpureus (neon blue gobys).
I have repashy super green now what other supplement food could i use?
Bacter ae, other repashy foods? I have some algae tabs but those dissolve in dust pretty fast.
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Pushing few times should change target temparature and the keep showing real temparature. There's nothing else to do. Go and replace yours if it doesn't react.
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Any idea how to get rid of it?
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@Kirsten yea eating my wood that is glued to other wood and rocks removing it if this gets out of control will be lots of fun😅
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@MN-AQUARIST @Streetwise tnx for replying.
I did look those posts it's similar but it looks like its growing flat on surfaces but mine grows almost like willow moss and have black body white tips.
Maybe it's different species of Mycelium, @Streetwise if it is type of micelium should i be prepared to remove wood from aquarium in few months if it is sign that it will start rotting fast?
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@Rycraft nothing dramatically better will be with or without that thing. I would agree that money is better spend if you buy lighting or something else.
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I would add less easy green if you have just few slow growing plants, like one pump per week and if you see any deficiency start adding two pumps etc.
I don't have informations about lighting but you could cut it more time wise or lower intensity.
Picture is bad so it could be staghorn or some other type of hair algae or new baby plants, it usually looks like on picture down when java fern grows new baby plants. If it's algae you could treat directly on algae with "liquid co2" product.
Just for information java fern and anubias shouldn't be buried in substrat to be more precise rizome should be out best is to tie it to wood.
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Twinstar algae inhibitor isn't worth spending 120$. I personally didn't try it but few friend did try it and all in all it's fancy and more pricey way to do same thing 10$ air pump would do or to be more precise few milliliters of hydrogen peroxide daily would do plus you need to keep buying new disks every now and then.
Nothing will prevent algae if you have too much light or organics etc.
Soo better spend that money for co2, soil or some other equipment and balance your tank. All tanks have some algae at a start but with time and balance it will go away.
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Hi all, this is second time this happened to me in different tanks. My redmoor wood or someone calls it spider wood used in aquarium grow something that looks like small roots. this on pictures and first one are bought in different local shops first one was boiled in water this was wasn't.
That thing have white color tops and black color "body". It is easy removable with toothbrush and it sinks. Snails and shrimps aren't interested in it.
Anyone whit similar thing or any ideas what that is? I found very little informations on google.
@Cory maybe you saw it in China or somewhere else?
I removed 2 weeks agou all of it and this is new growth.
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Yes to remove chlorine and any organics or chemicals that could be in water in raining and snowing month's.
I don't have any problems but just was curious. If it would be beneficial for aquarium why not.
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Hi, so i came up with idea to use active carbon for my water changes.
I use two way siphon for water changes and i am adding water directly from sink pipe to aquarium. I was thinking of adding active carbon in mesh adding mesh inside of siphone pipe and capping it with gilter wool so particles/dust don't go in aquarium.
Would this work!?
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I restore purigen in 50/50 bleach/ water solution for 24h and then i let it few days in water with prime. After that i store it in container with some water.
Seachem is actually recommending to keep purigen moist and bot to let it dry out.
"Purigen® needs to be stored in a small amount of water to keep the media moist. This will prevent the beads from drying out, which can cause them to shrink and crack, reducing the efficacy of the Purigen®. "
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I would choose Bucephalandra or Crypts. Because of different tzpes you have in those families.
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@Colu shock wouldn't last for few weeks. And i do make sure that water is same temparature.
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@Mmiller2001 i was thinking the same i dosed full dose two times of available med. maybe i will try second treatment jus to be sure.
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@test.tin tnx for replay. 20 fish weren't added at once. And i do large wc 50% once to twice a week. Additional to that at first i was thinking the same so i dosed prime every 24 hours between water changes. All in all i think it's parazites or bacteria problem in the end.
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Tnx for replay but i actually want to know how prefilter one with pump and without pump would impact canister filter fluval 206. Would 100gph pump from prefilter be too strong for fluval 206 intake or not.
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i did research and i saw that embers like temparatures from 20,22,23 up to 28 Celsius so i think that 23 C is fine for them and in any case month on that temparature wouldn't kill them.
In any case things started looking better they are mora active and looking good for last few days.
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I am thinking about adding canister prefilter to external fluval 206, maybe it's not necessary but i want to know and talk about it.
So there's two options-
1. Prefilter without pump- that's straight forward Inlet-prefilter-canister-outlet
2. Prefilter with pump (my concern is how that pump would work with fluval 206 pump) would prefilter pump water too fast or too slow?
In attachment are two prefilters one with pump and one without so you can get better idea what i am thinking about.
In prefilter i would add just mechanical filtration and in fluval 206 just biological filtration.
Just info- prefilter pump around 100 gallons per hour, fluval 206- 206 gallons per hour.
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Yes hydrogen should kill it just don't overdo it because you could kill anubias.
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One more thing symptoms slightly changed. Now they look normal color and shape and for two days in a row i saf ember tetra just for nothing start swimming like crazy hitting bottom and then dies like it had heart attack😬😶
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So just an update. I treted my whole tank for bacteria, fungus, and two times for parazites. Added heater(until now i had them on room temperature that wasn't going two lof but had 1-1.5 Celsius fluctuations), i added air stone and still they are dieing. They stay low and "hide" like they are scared but when it's food time they eat and swim all around.
My other and arguably more sensitive fish are great and thriving (otocinclus, amanos, Apistogramma trifasciata, cobalt goby) all active with great color.
Just those embers i can't get whats wrong with them.
Siphon tube fix for water changes
in General Discussion
Posted
I ise small amount of filter floss to block fish and dirt because my water from aquarium goes directly in tub so i don't want soil or dirt getting in water outlet. After removing water out i use tweezers and get out filter floss and trow it away.