Tony s

I use a 30 gallon brute trash can on a dolly to mix my water in. For all of my tanks. I mix it and fill the tank with a small sump pump. The recipe I use is 1 tablespoon of equilibrium with 1 teaspoons of alkalinity buffer and 1/2 teaspoons of acid buffer. That gives me a gh of around 8 and a kh of around 6. For everything. Every time.

Okay. I understand completely. My normal gh is 300. My kh is close to 200. And I have the high iron as well as iron bacteria in my well. And I use ro as well Ro is fine. But you’re going to need to remineralize it to have success. And you’re going to have to be consistent. we just have to find a way to help you do that now. there are several ways to do this. Crushed coral works. Seachem equilibrium with acid and alkaline buffer works. Aragonite. Oyster shell. Wonder shell works. It’s just a matter of what you want to use. Or you could even do a mixture of your tap and Ro

There are corys that will work. But stabilizing your water is key. Before we add fish. this is vital. Or anything we suggest is more than likely going to fail. use of Ro is fine. But you need a stabilizer with it. Your gh should be anywhere from 120 to 300 for most fish. The key being that you can be consistent with it. And a kh of 40 at least would be good. It helps to stabilize your ph. out of curiosity. What are you concerned about that you won’t use the water from your kitchen sink

You know. That’s what I like best about this forum. I remember very well the feeling of not knowing. It’s kind of overwhelming. And try to help when I can. 😁

Your tank gh and kh sound really unstable. If you test your tap water from the sink. What does it read. the next question. What fish do you really want. The answer to that is how you set up your tank. Substrate. Filter. Plants. Actually that’s the question everyone should ask first. Cause that even determines tank size.

The other question is whether or not your tank is fully cycled and how long has it been running. And for me, what bacteria did you use to cycle it.

If that’s the water from your tap, it’s excellent for crystal shrimp. Caradina. Unfortunately the Bolivian ram is going to see them as food. If not eating them whole, then probably bit by bit. The honey gourami is small enough to eat your shrimplets.

Welcome! I had a clutch hatch in my 75g. For the most part, they’re still there. Probably 20 there now after having given 30+ back to my lfs. And 2 in every other tank as well. But I only had angels and corys and rainbows. So nothing that is particularly hungry for snail. The loaches are hungry for snail, and possibly a few other kinds of your fish also like snail as well. But definitely the loaches. So if you want them you’ll have to go ahead and remove them as you see them. treat them as adults, and make sure there’s enough food for them. Either a ton of algae or algae wafers is fine. Anything organic actually. The cure for no snail clutches is to make sure that the water stays as full in the tank as possible. The eggs won’t hatch if they’re submerged in water. So keeping the tanks full is the best way to not get baby snails

It’s more than likely fine. But if too low you’ll start to see hairline cracks in the older shell With my water, I use fortified RO. So my kh has a tendency to bottom out. And I have seen cracks with my snails when I’m not watching as closely as I should. Which causes my calcium uptake to slow. your gh is a bit on the low side for snails. But not horribly. You should be fine

Do you know the hardness of your water. It’s gh and kh and ph. Those numbers have a direct effect on the available calcium for the snail shell. If they’re very low, it can actually leach calcium from the shell

How many tiger barbs in the tank with him? They can be quite nasty to each other

But… now you have the chance to get 1 or 2 to get the tank back where you wanted it in the first place.

It’s like smaller and very colorful guppy. Tons of color https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwiN_8TZ-vuEAxXDkokEHdZiCPQQFnoECDYQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aquariumcoop.com%2Fblogs%2Faquarium%2Fendlers-livebearer-care-guide&usg=AOvVaw1gfqaSJYcg91yAlIrgw9Bn&opi=89978449

I have 2 different black substrates, one fake rounded gravel which has been okay with corys. The other is more of a sand. From petsmart. This sand is more like sand paper. I have peppered corys in there. It’s way too sharp for them, but for the moment it has to be their home.

I think I would use the 15g tank. Add a splash of fritz7 and just keep a close eye on her. That way you could rework your main tank to your liking. She should be just fine. But stress in otos can be no joke. They can be a bit finicky anyway. But at least in the 15 you watch her. And the faster you rescape your main, the faster she gets to settle down in her new permanent home.

Depends on the cichlids. Dwarf cichlids are very content with plants. Angels and discus are too. African cichlids and severums like to eat plants. Things like oscars and other large South American just like to rearrange their tanks, no matter what you like. so, very much a species by species thing

If you’re really worried about her. You could run a course of kanaplex of maracyn2 while she’s in the other tank. That should stop any bacterial infections. Fungal infections could be dealt with by dabbing the patch with methylene blue by q tip. With the understanding that I’m not colu and could be wrong. But fuzzy could be something like columnaris or just a bit of fungus.. columnaris being the worse of the 2

I have black substrate in a couple of tanks. Of the Cory’s, only the albinos tand out. The rest kind of blend in. White or gold mystery snails are ok and visible. Vibrant shrimp should work fine. Neon tetras red stripes disappear. My tanks also have painted black backgrounds. So a whole lot of black/dark. Green neons are probably the best. Possibly glow lite rasboras, glow light tetras. Lamb chop rasboras.

In a 6 gallon, there really isn’t a lot of swimming space. You really need micro fish for that tank. Even endlers are pushing the limits of the tank. I know, PetSmart and Petco both sell very cute, tiny tanks. (Walmart too) that aren’t really big enough for anything. Even 1 betta is pushing the limits. It’s a terrible choice by them to even sell these tanks. Sorry the most I would put in them is one betta or honey gourami and one mystery snail. If you’re new to fish tanks. You’ll also want to put in some api quick start. That will help keep your fish alive. You’ll also want some test strips to check for ammonia in the tank. Fish naturally create ammonia in their waste. It’s very poisonous. You need to test for ammonia daily after adding the quick start. When you see ammonia, you’ll need to change at least half the water in the tank with fresh water. And when you add fresh water you’ll need to add something that takes out the chlorine the city puts in to keep bacteria out of the water. Something called prime works best for that. sorry if this is a bit of information overload. But the big pet stores kind of prey on new fish keepers. since you have the endlers already. It’s not really going to hurt to keep them in the 6g tank . But it really is too small. But you need test strips to help keep them healthy. and don’t get discouraged, this happens to people more often than you think. and absolutely keep asking questions. We would love to help and if you’re not new to tanks, you can forget everything I just said. But yeah, even panda Cory’s are too big. Chili rasboras would work. Maybe 8. But mollys get big, up to 2 inches. So way too big for 6g. even aqadvisor.com doesn’t have any thing but bettas and shrimp and snails

Water will evaporate and leave the salt behind. So when just adding water to top off the tank ( refilling only) just add plain water. If you need to do a water change. (Pulling water from the tank and refilling) add water and salt back in. But only for the volume you took out. So, if you pull out 3 gallon. Add 1tbsp salt. But follow your medication instructions as to when you’re allowed to do a water change at all

@MichaelL710 colu is probably right. But it’s your animal, when it stops eating and starts acting unhealthy, it’s probably time. We raise large amounts of farm animals, and I hate that part. I almost always wait wait until there’s no possible hope. I fight for every one of my animals. But sometimes it’s just necessary. Zoos go by if the animal can no longer be the animal and do it’s typical behavior it’s time.😭

Ha! Yes they can, thankfully one of my pairs get to free swimmers. And Then they eat them. I have 2 pair in the same 75g . My big marble makes sure he get 55g of it. Had to move out the unpaired males and the rainbows. He pushed the rainbows to the bottom. But they don’t bother the Bolivian rams or the corys. Must be his personal choice. But when there’s no eggs, there’s no aggression

Got a coconut cave? Kinda looks like coconut fiber

You could. It may be contagious. Like you I haven’t seen anything like that before. I don’t think it is. But…I can’t say for sure. But treating him. Gives him a chance anyway

The other way to keep them in groups, if you can find someone that sex them correctly. I started with 6 in 75 ended up with 2 pairs. One pair is mild, the other has a very aggressive male in it. I now know who is who though. I think I’m going to separate the aggressive pair and let them breed once. Then separate into male and female tanks. They’re not really aggressive unless they’re laying eggs. Then watch out. @Gliderzzso if you can actually sex them before buying, I don’t think you’ll see much aggression. If keeping alone, and I wouldn’t worry about that. They’ll be fine. They can be kept with a ton of midsized fish species. Anything from large tetras, to any bottom dweller, to things like severum, geophagus, electric blue acara. Just not anything too fin nippy.