wes.crockett

With shrimp only, the tank should be fairly easy to keep stable as their bio load is minimal and they do a ton of the cleaning in the tank itself... ideally at least... I'll keep this thread updated over time.

Well now I want co2! lol. Think those mini Fluval Co2 Systems would do the trick in this tiny tank?

Hey all, A few months ago, I bought a Fluval Ebi (New in box) for about $25. It's sat for over six months. I got the itch to set this us as a shrimp tank on my desk. I am at the desk for 10-12 hours a day, so it'll be really awesome having it in my peripheral almost all day. I 3d printed a cool cave structure (can be found here). I smushed it to be sized right for this tank and printed it overnight. Yesterday, I added a bit more than 1kg of Fluval Stratum. Then, today, I stole some gravel from my 10 gallon community tank and headed to our LFS to get some plants. After talking to one of their associates, who coincidentally put together their most awesome nano-community tank in the shop, I settled on Sagittaria Subuleta and some Staurogyne Repens. I stole about 1/2 gallon from my 10 gallon tank (after doing a water change about 6 hours before) and filled the rest with fresh water (and some dechlorinator). I added a bit of Easy Green as well. Once the plants take hold and they establish their roots, I plan to get some Blue Rili or Blue Velvets for the tank. Let me know what you think, how I could improve it, and if you have any useful tips and tricks. Thanks! -Wes

Awesome, thank you @Sarina

Hey all, I have 3d printed a few items for my new tank. One is a riser for my AC medium sponge filter (so it has a flat surface to sit on and doesn't have substrate under it and the other is a cave item that sits under the substrate and has an opening at the top and a side view. I printed the items in PLA which is biodegradable, just over many MANY years or with applied heat (over 140 degrees f to start). I was still wanting to apply a sealant. I read on some forum (can't find it now) that Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating is great for this but I really wanted to hear if anyone here had alternative suggestions... I have grown to trust this community far more than any of the other forums. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts! Thanks. -Wes

Yeah, the Sicce Shark Pro 700 is about 10 inches tall and 3 inches deep/wide. It's not HUGE, but it's not tiny either... It could probably be hidden behind the cube tanks center piece (rock or wood) and plants, but I agree it's bigger than ideal. As far as brands, Sicce is pretty highly rated. Check out KGTropicals review of it on Youtube.

Adding later is certainly an option. Thanks.

I was actually, initially, leaning towards the Sicce Shark Pro 700... seems like a very highly rated product that is pretty simple. Think it'd be better than a single Medium Sponge?

I could continue using my HOB as I think it is a 20g rated one too. I was hoping to reduce overall footprint of 'devices' in the tank since the cube has less back-wall space and I was planning on a sloped aqua-scape from a back corner to the opposing front corner. A small cannister filter would probably be best in this case but where the tank is being located doesn't really provide much area for it.

Yeah. Right now I use a HOB... This will be the first time not using it.

For sure on the bacteria front. was more wondering if a single Medium sponge is sufficient filtration by itself for the tank.

That's comforting to hear. I do plan to run only this filter in the tank.

Thanks. As far as the mis, purely aesthetic. All plants will be directly planted in the aquarium soil or attached to the centerpiece.

I should mention, i plan to put the new sponge filter in the existing tank for a few weeks too.

Hey all, Ordering supplied to move from my 10g aquarium to a 29g rimless cube. I plan to do a mix of substrates with the primary being a plant-nutrient beneficial substrate like Fluval's Aquarium Soil. A small amount of gravel (from the previous tank) and then a bit of sand. It will slope downwards from the back left to the right front with the aquarium soil being the bulk of the substrate. I plan to put a rock or wood feature in the center, favoring the back left a bit and I plan to hide the sponge filer in the far back left corner, hopefully hidden a bit by plants and the centerpiece. I am ordering the 100-watt Aquarium Coop heater and the new battery-backed-up air pump as well as a sponge filter and never-clog ziss airstone. Is the Medium large enough if it is the only filter? As it stands, we'll have 2 ottos, 6 black neon tetras, and 1 honey gourmi. After some time, we plan to add more tetras and some shrimp (likely amano). I plan to have it 'medium' planted. Thank you -Wes

My wife and I are headed out of town for the weekend, so I had to get my fish-chores done today. Cleaned the main (10g) tank and the quarantine tank; where my Honey Gourmi is rehabbing still. None of my fish would pose for pictures, but here we are anyways... In the coming weeks, I will be transitioning from this 10g tank to a 35g frameless cube that I picked up for 1/2 off at Petco last week. I am very excited to try a real aquascape.

Hey all, I need a few replacement AC adapters for Top Fin hood lights with the barrel adapter. Anyone know what I could buy for this? Thank you, -Wes

Hey all, Haven't been able to find an answer to this... The advertised length of the LED... Is that fully extended or with the braces put in? Looking to get a 60g Cube tank that is 25"x25"... would the 24" Easy Plant light work well for this? Thank you, Wes

Hey all, So, 2 weeks ago, I walked in to the room with my tank to do their morning feeding just to find my Honey Gourami doing acrobatics in the tank... and by 'acrobatics,' I mean, he was stuck in the updraft of the air stone getting tossed around... Think of it as being involuntarily flipped around for... well... who knows how long he was in that... So, I was able to get him out and figured harm HAD TO HAVE BEEN DONE... sure enough, he got suck back in it. I leapt to action to set up my quarantine tank and got him in there where he, for the better part of a week and a half, exhibited signs of dropsy. I thought, for sure, it'd just be a matter of time before he passes. Well, between yesterday and today, he actually looks to be swimming mostly normally and he actually looks more vibrant and healthy than prior. He had some dark spots behind his eyes for a while, but that's all gone. None of the other fish in the tank (6 black neons, 2 ottos) have had any issues in between So I'm wondering... How long should I keep him separated from the main tank. I was thinking 2 more weeks of all healthy showing and then reintroduce him. Does that seem reasonable? I would love to get rid of the tank in my bathroom and reclaim my counter space 😄

Thanks @xXInkedPhoenixX I do have one assassin snail in the tank, would that be sufficient in dealing with any passengers? The Reverse Respiration method seems fairly simple to perform... would likely just need a few gallons of Seltzer to do it. Regarding planting in the pots, do you just mean that they put the whole pot down and surround it with whatever substrate? that should be pretty easy on the tank I have set up. I may give it a try.

Hey all! I have an established 10g with plants that went in a few weeks before the fish ever touched the water and they are doing quite well. I want o remove the fake rock/plant decoration I have in the tank and replace it with some more plants. I'm looking at 1 Scarlet Temple, 2 Dwarf Hairgrass (to hopefully begin carpeting the bottom of the tank a bit), and 1 Pogostemon Stellatus Octopus. All from the Aquarium Coop store... My question is, are these OK to put straight in to the tank of are there considerations that need to be made? My idea was to get them and do a 30% water change when they arrive (just to bring down the water level enough to more easily plant them... I use Easy Green... Any need for root tabs too? (Substrate is gravel... I wish I had done a soil...)

Was going to go get the 30 or 60 cube from Petsmart... but it isn't included in the sale 😞

Thank you everyone for the advice. Sounds like doing a straight transfer is safe enough to proceed with (given I do it taking the right steps and precautions.) I'm sure if/when I do it, I'll be posting back in the forum with photos. Cheers.

I was planning on moving to a canister filter (since my current HOB filter wouldn't handle the load of the new tank) and I probably wouldn't want to use more than 7 or 8 gallons of the old tank water in the 30 gallon since, when you get to the very bottom, it'd end up mostly being VERY dirty water at the bottom of the tank. My thought was to split the substrate to create that nice transition effect... Use dark soil substrate on the left and right with the old substrate (pebbles) as a middle area.

Hey all, Been a while, but my 10g has finally been pretty auto-pilot, so my frantic researching and questions have kind of come to a close... until today. Now that everything seems to be solid in my tank, I want to totally disrupt it! Does anyone know of a resource that discusses how to migrate tanks from a 10g to a 30g? I bought all the stuff for a 75 but decided it's too big and, ultimately, I only want to maintain a single tank. The 75 was going to be for Cichlids. Instead, I'd like to take what I have (6 Black Neon Tetras, 2 Otos, 1 Dwarf Honey Gourami) and put them in a bigger tank and then build out more of a community system over time. I, obviously, can't simply throw them in a new tank like that though... What would the proper method of transferring the fish, plants, and likely some substrate over to the new tank? My initial thought was set up the new tank (though IDK how since it needs to go where the old tank is) with new substrate and any net-new plants but incorporate some of the old substrate in to it... let it sit for a week or two and try to match water parameters... then transfer 5 gallons from the old tank over while I acclimate the fish a few at a time to the new tank until all are out of the old one. Is there a more rapid way to do this without totally putting my fish at risk?? In an ideal world, I'd straight out replace it in one go, but I'm sure that isn't advisable. Thanks all, Wes