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New light for funky lid


Phillip
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Well, here is what we have done on several occasions: we take a small drill bit, just a touch wider than a small zip-tie, and carefully drill holes (pre-measured) through the black lid and secure an LED beneath the lid. We've used a handful of types, but settled on the Hyper Tough brand "Slim Under Cabinet Light" sold at Wal-Mart (5,000 K choose the one that will fit your prefab plastic lid) -- not the LEDs pictured from tank below, but the one from Wal Mart online. They're unbelievably cheap, can be chained together, and do fairly well at basic depth penetration. Nothing will compare to really investing in good lighting, but these always get the job done. We've used them on . . . about 12 tanks at a time. All photos below are of our tanks lit through clear lids with these $9 LEDs. 

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If I recall correctly those tanks come with a light that sits on a glass screen in the plastic canopy correct? Although I know they changed to those flimsy LED light bars that produce the most horrid white light ever so maybe that is no longer the case.

 

If you can keep the canopy really I think @Fish Folk's idea would be best. If you have access to a sawzall and you want like a finnex or similar bar. Measure the dimensions of the bar you want and cut out a section that width. 

 

The Top Fin hood is it's biggest downfall. In an attempt to be cheap they kinda missed the target of maintenance and feeding convenience. You also can't just swap the aqueon hood on because of course they are different dimensions.

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14 hours ago, Fish Folk said:

Well, here is what we have done on several occasions: we take a small drill bit, just a touch wider than a small zip-tie, and carefully drill holes (pre-measured) through the black lid and secure an LED beneath the lid. We've used a handful of types, but settled on the Hyper Tough brand "Slim Under Cabinet Light" sold at Wal-Mart (5,000 K choose the one that will fit your prefab plastic lid) -- not the LEDs pictured from tank below, but the one from Wal Mart online. They're unbelievably cheap, can be chained together, and do fairly well at basic depth penetration. Nothing will compare to really investing in good lighting, but these always get the job done. We've used them on . . . about 12 tanks at a time. All photos below are of our tanks lit through clear lids with these $9 LEDs. 

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 12.47.25 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 12.46.43 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 12.53.29 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 12.54.00 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 12.59.56 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 1.02.33 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 1.04.31 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 1.07.05 AM.png

Screen Shot 2021-04-02 at 1.09.30 AM.png

That’s not a bad idea with the zip ties. Might have to do that. 

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13 hours ago, Biotope Biologist said:

If I recall correctly those tanks come with a light that sits on a glass screen in the plastic canopy correct? Although I know they changed to those flimsy LED light bars that produce the most horrid white light ever so maybe that is no longer the case.

 

If you can keep the canopy really I think @Fish Folk's idea would be best. If you have access to a sawzall and you want like a finnex or similar bar. Measure the dimensions of the bar you want and cut out a section that width. 

 

The Top Fin hood is it's biggest downfall. In an attempt to be cheap they kinda missed the target of maintenance and feeding convenience. You also can't just swap the aqueon hood on because of course they are different dimensions.

I think it’s still the horrid led light strip. I was looking at some finnex and they weren’t waterproof, so I don’t think I’d be able to use them on the inside. 
 

The lid is definitely the biggest downfall! I’ve looked in to the glass aqueon hoods, and like you said they don’t fit. 

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30 minutes ago, Phillip said:

The lid is definitely the biggest downfall! I’ve looked in to the glass aqueon hoods, and like you said they don’t fit. 

Lexaan could be cut to fit. Just make it symmetrical, because it will bow, and require flipping over. The cheaper the polymer, the faster it bows.

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