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What’s my phosphate and what do I do about it?


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I shoot for "the presence of phosphate" with a goal of keeping it below 2, as the Internet says a deficiency or overabundance of phosphate both cause algae. I only worry about this in my CO2-injected tanks. My other planted tanks have matured and balanced over time and don't seem to be affected by fluctuating levels of nutrients, as long as the nutrients are there. 

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@Mmiller2001 strategy may be an overstatement. 
 

It’s a 60g tank and I dose 4 doses of easy green twice a week. Went up because of some deficiency seen in plants. Also in another thread we decided my windelov Java fern had phosphate deficiency 

 

So I got a phosphate test and it said this.

image.jpeg.7d8c7d611da282858483f502d3f989cd.jpeg

It seemed low so I dosed half a dose of Seachem phosphorus and got this after a couple hours

image.jpeg.eaa43daaa1f4439c901af0a7d19c1929.jpeg

but then a week later I got this. 
 

image.jpeg.e3c93cd6fda58e602d2a905e491c1426.jpeg
 

 

now I must say I also had a big nitrate spike. Not sure what the cause was. I juvenile Cory cat died and I could not fin the body but it seems excessive. I will keep an eye on it. 
 

I certainly wanted to take things slow with Phosphate 

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31 minutes ago, AquaAggie said:

@Mmiller2001 strategy may be an overstatement. 
 

It’s a 60g tank and I dose 4 doses of easy green twice a week. Went up because of some deficiency seen in plants. Also in another thread we decided my windelov Java fern had phosphate deficiency 

 

So I got a phosphate test and it said this.

image.jpeg.7d8c7d611da282858483f502d3f989cd.jpeg

It seemed low so I dosed half a dose of Seachem phosphorus and got this after a couple hours

image.jpeg.eaa43daaa1f4439c901af0a7d19c1929.jpeg

but then a week later I got this. 
 

image.jpeg.e3c93cd6fda58e602d2a905e491c1426.jpeg
 

 

now I must say I also had a big nitrate spike. Not sure what the cause was. I juvenile Cory cat died and I could not fin the body but it seems excessive. I will keep an eye on it. 
 

I certainly wanted to take things slow with Phosphate 

If your not dosing CO2, don't get too worried about it. It's been shown that an over abundance in nutrients doesn't cause algae. StephenP2003 is correct, just have "some" there. If you are worried, just do a 50% water change.

If you are curious, here's what you are dosing with Easy Green

With a CO2 tank, we would increase CO2 or increase PO4 to fight GSA.

You might try dosing Excel everyday. I've used it and really like it.

 

IMG_0525.jpg

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5 minutes ago, AquaAggie said:

@Mmiller2001 do t get to worried about what? Being high or low? 
 

I was worried about low since there were signs of deficiency. With high I can just watch it and wait for to come back down. 

Being too high. Just make sure some is there. You could stop dosing and test every day and monitor the drop and then dose to the uptake amount. That might be more "effort" than you want to do. I'm a nerd and kinda like testing!

Usually, the core problem in non CO2 tanks is light.

 

Edited by Mmiller2001
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I have the same issue in one of my tanks. I can't keep phosphates in there....and I also have Java Ferns. I literally have to dose phosphates every 48 hours. Irene did a video, which many people have posted here about balancing the nutrient levels...and it's an excellent video, so I'm attaching below a screen shot of the spreadsheet she showed in the video. She has a line for phosphate recommended doses, and like someone mentioned above (and is also reflected in Irene's chart), keeping your levels under 2ppm is a pretty good practice as a general rule.

However I follow the 1:10 ratio. So if my nitrates are at 20ppm...which they are on Saturday mornings after I do my weekly water change and dose Easy Green...I overdose phosphates that day so my phosphates are at 2ppm. 48 hours later all that phosphate will have been consumed, and also some of the nitrates. So on Monday my nitrates are lower so then I dose the recommended amount which usually puts my phosphates about 1ppm, because my nitrates are about 10ppm. . I repeat the same thing on Wednesday, and I should on Friday, but since I do my water changes first thing Saturday morning I just let Friday be low phosphate day and my plants don't seem to mind and I pick up my phosphate dosing the next morning after my water change.

I'm also a nerd like @Mmiller2001 above. I love testing, it's part of the fun of the hobby, but more importantly, knowledge is power. I have tested my tank so many times in the beginning I can tell you any day of the week what my phosphate levels are, or nitrates, or potassium, etc. Testing is the only way to know what's happening in our tanks, but once you know your tank's rhythm, it makes aquarium keeping so easy and enjoyable....and it also helps you understand how much and when you need to dose. Now I don't test anymore because I already know what's happening in my tank, and how much and when do dose, so now I'm thinking time for another tank! Lastly, if your plant is struggling from nutrient deficiencies it could also be low potassium. I also have to dose potassium every 48 hours.

Aquarium Nutrient Levels.jpg

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Thanks @Wes L.  I have watched Irene’s video and forgotten about this chart, I need to watch it again. Is there a potassium test kit? It seems like a fine line as too much of anything and you get algae. Too little you get algae. You have to be freaking Goldilocks. I completely understand the frequent testing and figuring out your tanks groove. There are just a lot of moving parts. 

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2 minutes ago, AquaAggie said:

You have to be freaking Goldilocks.

LOL! That literally made me laugh out loud. I think you're on to something. When all these people post about algae problems, we can now say, so sorry, your tank is suffering from the Goldilocks Syndrome. We need to think of our aquatic plants just like house plants or the plants in our yards. NPK, those are the three main nutrients all plants need and is big and bold printed on every bottle of plant fertilizer. If a person is dosing an all-in-one fertilizer like Easy Green, then all the micro nutrients like Iron, or manganese, etc., are covered. You don't need to test for those. Really the three to be most concerned about are the NPK, so for tanks that's Nitrates, Phosphates and Potassium. I always suggest to people just test those three and anything else just test on an as needed basis. If Goldilocks can keep those three elements balanced you're pretty much home free. And yes, there is a potassium test kit. I have one and it's fun to do....because I'm a geek.

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