Superjet chinese knockoff

[Markp2483]

So late one night i made an impulse buy searching aliexpress and bought a 10l ada style superjet canister filter. It cost be around 200usd (still expensive ) but compared to the ada version around 1000usd thought it was pretty good deal.   So it came in today and when i opened it i realized it didn't come with a pump.  Not a big deal found a pump for 40 bucks.  I sort of like the build your own adventure you get with this thing and this thing is just that a stainless steel can with some tubes.    Now im looking for interesting ways to heat the tank.  Since its made of stainless steel and sort of looks like a cooking pot why not treat it like a cooking pot and put a heating element under it.  Does anyone see any reason this won't work?  This is going on a landen 90p rimless tank (48gal) and i like keeping coolish water fish (<76deg) not discus)  Any idea how many watts i may need? I don't know if normal aquarium reasoning for wattage will work for this.  Any comments or suggestions are welcomed?

[Ken]

A heating bucket wrap controlled by by an Inkbird or something along those lines? Home brew guys do that kind of stuff. 

[Markp2483]

I’ll check it out, thank you

[Dandy Pearl]

Your biggest challenge is going to be your temperature / heater controller. This can get tricky if you are not handy.

Good luck with your project.

[Markp2483]

Hi dandy pearl,

I think ken’s idea of using a ink bird may help with temp control. It’s a basic temp controller with an external prob. So you would leave the prob in the tank and the controller would turn on and off the heat element . My only worry is that if the pump died I might fully cook my media. I guess I could have have two temp controllers in series with one in tank and one on the filter but now we are really going crazy. Maybe I can find a temp controller with two probs.

[Socqua]

8 hours ago, Markp2483 said:

Maybe I can find a temp controller with two probs.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X1JT372/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_54k2FbJXR5DDF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

is what i use, with two probes. Will ensure the two probes are within a certain temp.

[Markp2483]

Quick update it works

inkbird temp controller and dab press sauce heat plate ( think it’s for making some kind of marijuana product) found it on Amazon.  
 

the pic shows the test setup in the tank. It’s not scaped yet . Didn’t even cut the hoses down to size.  I currently have it set at target 75deg in tank and the heater max temp is set to 180deg.  In the future I plan on playing around with different temperature zones, where I can try to keep the canister filter at a higher temp to promote bacteria. After doing a bit of research it seems 96deg is about optimal for nitrofying bacteria. With the pump I have I can play around with flow rate and the heat plate temp to try and hit my targets (canister 96deg, tank 75deg). It’s all still an experiment but I’m having fun.

cheers

mark

 

 

 

 

 

[lefty o]

where does the flux capacitor go?

[Markp2483]

1.21 gigawatts!! Agree a bit over the top but I still think it beats the off the shelf external heater

[Streetwise]

88 mph converts to 141.622 kph, if you are looking for another magical meme number on one of those digital displays. 😉

Edited January 3, 2021 by Streetwise

[lefty o]

it would be messy if the tank hit 88mph. LOL

[FishyThoughts]

Cool setup to play around with. Though I’d think you’d need a chiller after the canister to get the temp to drop 20 degrees. 

[Ryan F]

Just a note on heat zoning, keeping the canister a different temp wont work. The flow rate is too high. Meaning the 98deg in your canister is going to be pumped into your tank. You'd have to have a mondo sized radiator or chiller to remove the heat from the system to make it the right temp for the display tank. Then the water pumped or drained via overflow will have to be reheated and it will require a powerful heater.

You'll be wasting a ton of power to heat the water for the canister and then dumping that heat into your house.  

Unless you are dealing with something like a pool or pond where you have a massive radiative area to work with there can be only 1 temp zone.

You might be wondering why it doesn't work like your house does where you can have a zone for each level of your house. The answer is simple. Air is a very poor conductor of heat. Water is a very good conductor of heat.