GH rising beyond expected

[TwoFace99]

Hello, I’ve been using Seachem Equilibrium  for about a month now, because I had a really bad magnesium deficiency that wiped out most of the plants in my tank. I have recently bought a new host of plants (arrived Aug. 24th and 25th), and so far they seem to be adjusting/growing. However, I waited for the surviving plants to either show signs of thriving or dying from my new nutrient supplements (I also bought/used Easy Iron around the same time, on advice of my LFS, if the problem was indeed Iron deficiency instead). 
 

My GH before using Equilibrium was 10dGH, but I bumped up the GH to 15dGH by mistake. However, my fish seem to be unaffected by the sudden rise, and my Amano shrimp seem to be more active exploring the tank, so I stayed consistent with that amount. Overall, I been consistent with the Equilibrium usage (my GH would be 13dGH after a WC, then I would bump that number up to 15dGH).

-Lastly, I can’t help but notice my GH was sitting at 13dGH, after I performed my WC, but after adding a 1 1/2 teaspoon of Seachem Equilibrium, like I have been normally doing it is now sitting at 18dGH. I thought GH is supposed to dip from the plants consuming the calcium and magnesium in the water column, not increase? Should I be worry about my fish?
Here are pictures of the tank and water parameters artached below:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nirite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm (usage of Easy Green)

KH: 8dKH

GH: 18dGH ( usage of Seachem Equilibrium/ tested yesterday)

Phosphate: 2.0mg/L

I dose about 10 squirts of Easy Iron with all the plants I have now.

 

[Tony s]

Only add the equilibrium for water changes. Neither the calcium or magnesium evaporates. So if you’re adding it consistently every time it will increase. I actually had this happen to me when I first started using it. Now when doing a water change, I premix everything and get it just right before adding. I never did like the residue left over from it. So I don’t mix it in the tank. The other way is doing the testing every time you use it. Per tank. That way your range is exactly where you want it. For just top offs I never add it 

[Mmiller2001]

You only really need 5ppm of Mg for plants. Looks more like Micro nutrient issue versus Mg. I’d switch to a DTPA micro option. If your pH is above 6.8, you are not getting much Fe to the plants. Equilibrium adds Ca, Mg, Fe and K. I’d go buy a bag of epson salt from the pharmacy and add that for Mg. 

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 1:54 PM, Tony s said:

Only add the equilibrium for water changes. Neither the calcium or magnesium evaporates. So if you’re adding it consistently every time it will increase. I actually had this happen to me when I first started using it. Now when doing a water change, I premix everything and get it just right before adding. I never did like the residue left over from it. So I don’t mix it in the tank. The other way is doing the testing every time you use it. Per tank. That way your range is exactly where you want it. For just top offs I never add it 

Yes, I only add Equilibrium after my WC (take out and replace the water). I do take some of the tank water and mix the Equilibrium in a cup for a few minutes, then pour the solution into the tank (residue and all). The residue usually disappears in a couple of hours, but the cloudy water goes away 12-24 hours from that point onward.
Also, I ALWAYS test my GH levels before adding Equilibrium and it would come out to 13-14dGH, and I would add accordingly. I even tested one time during one of the past weeks, and the GH actually dropped from 15 to 13dGH.
 I understand your point about calcium and magnesium not evaporating, but I’m still not sure why the reading would jump from 13 to 18dGH using 1 1/2 teaspoon this WC session. The 1 1/2 teaspoon is what I normally add to be exactly in my usual range to your point, but that’s only if my reading drops off to where the GH normally is. 

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 1:55 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

You only really need 5ppm of Mg for plants. Looks more like Micro nutrient issue versus Mg. I’d switch to a DTPA micro option. If your pH is above 6.8, you are not getting much Fe to the plants. Equilibrium adds Ca, Mg, Fe and K. I’d go buy a bag of epson salt from the pharmacy and add that for Mg. 

Wouldn’t adding epsom salt throw the concentration of magnesium vs calcium off balance, if I exclusively use the epsom salt with supplementing calcium for my plants? I only ask this, because I used to use Wonder shells for my banana plants (they unfortunately died not too long ago) that had a serious case of curling leaves. I would add them to my aquarium after every WC or when they dissipate (away from the flow of my HOB).

However, in doing so, I ended up adding too much calcium to the point that I had a severe magnesium deficiency amongst my plants, which is the situation I’m referring to in the beginning of my post. At least, that’s what others have said on this forum, when I showed them pictures of my Water Wisteria and Cryptocorne Tropica plants, which led to me ditching the Wonder Shells and using Equilibrium to fix the balance between Magnesium and Calcium. It’s always one problem after another with this tank. 
Also, I’m still somewhat new to planted aquariums, so could you explain what you mean by DTPA micro option? 
Lastly, would you suggest I get an Iron testing kit, just in case? So far, my plants haven’t shown iron deficiencies, just melting from my Amazon swords (that still were acclimating when I bought them my LFS). 

Edited May 1 by TwoFace99

[Mmiller2001]

Ratios don’t matter. If you are saying your Mg is low, yet have a GH of 13 degrees, then you have a ton of Ca. You would only need to add Mg. Of which you only need about 5ppm of Mg. Twisting can be cause by several things, but I’d rule out Ca based on the information you are posting. 
 

EDTA and DTPA are common chelated forms of Fe. They require a certain level of pH for the plants to be able to utilize the Fe. EDTA works at pH below 6.7/8 and DTPA can go higher. If the KH is as you say, your pH is definitely higher than ideal. Switching to the appropriate chelate will let your plants get more Fe. If you exceed the pH for each chelate, you will lock out Fe all together.

[JoeQ]

I didn't read this whole thread, but another thing to consider is a lot of times certain deficiencies can be caused by an overdose of a totally different nutrient. For example: you can cause symptoms of a magnesium deficiency simply by over dosing potassium! Moral of the story is, be careful supplementing specific nutrients.

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 5/1/2024 at 11:45 AM, TwoFace99 said:

Hello, I’ve been using Seachem Equilibrium  for about a month now, because I had a really bad magnesium deficiency that wiped out most of the plants in my tank. I have recently bought a new host of plants (arrived Aug. 24th and 25th), and so far they seem to be adjusting/growing. However, I waited for the surviving plants to either show signs of thriving or dying from my new nutrient supplements (I also bought/used Easy Iron around the same time, on advice of my LFS, if the problem was indeed Iron deficiency instead). 
 

My GH before using Equilibrium was 10dGH, but I bumped up the GH to 15dGH by mistake. However, my fish seem to be unaffected by the sudden rise, and my Amano shrimp seem to be more active exploring the tank, so I stayed consistent with that amount. Overall, I been consistent with the Equilibrium usage (my GH would be 13dGH after a WC, then I would bump that number up to 15dGH).

-Lastly, I can’t help but notice my GH was sitting at 13dGH, after I performed my WC, but after adding a 1 1/2 teaspoon of Seachem Equilibrium, like I have been normally doing it is now sitting at 18dGH. I thought GH is supposed to dip from the plants consuming the calcium and magnesium in the water column, not increase? Should I be worry about my fish?
Here are pictures of the tank and water parameters artached below:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nirite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm (usage of Easy Green)

KH: 8dKH

GH: 18dGH ( usage of Seachem Equilibrium/ tested yesterday)

Phosphate: 2.0mg/L

I dose about 10 squirts of Easy Iron with all the plants I have now.

Hi @TwoFace99,

Have you actually checked the dKH and the dGH of the water coming out of your tap?

The dosage of 1 1/2 teaspoons of Equilibrium was per 10 gallons of water removed and replaced....was that the amount you removed?

Also what size tank are we talking about here please?
 -Roy

[TwoFace99]

 

On 5/1/2024 at 3:54 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Ratios don’t matter. If you are saying your Mg is low, yet have a GH of 13 degrees, then you have a ton of Ca. You would only need to add Mg. Of which you only need about 5ppm of Mg. Twisting can be cause by several things, but I’d rule out Ca based on the information you are posting. 
 

EDTA and DTPA are common chelated forms of Fe. They require a certain level of pH for the plants to be able to utilize the Fe. EDTA works at pH below 6.7/8 and DTPA can go higher. If the KH is as you say, your pH is definitely higher than ideal. Switching to the appropriate chelate will let your plants get more Fe. If you exceed the pH for each chelate, you will lock out Fe all together.

Sorry, I meant was before I had my magnesium issue a month ago, some time before that, I used to have a calcium deficiency most notably with my banana plants (curling leaves/stunted growth of new leaves), in which I overdid with my wonder shell usage that caused my magnesium deficiency issues. The pictures attached are what I was dealing with a month ago with my Java Fern/Water Wisteria. As for the moment, I don’t have any obvious deficiencies that I can make out. I apologize for not being clear. 

As for DTPA Iron, are there any products you would recommend? Again, for Iron supplements, all I use are Easy Iron/Equilibrium, but I’m not sure if they are more so the DTPA or the ETPA Fe you’re referring to. 

 

[Mmiller2001]

I think you’re a little discombobulated here. An addition of calcium would not cause a magnesium deficiency. As @Seattle_Aquarist request, what’s the GH of of t your source water?

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 4:29 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,

Have you actually checked the dKH and the dGH of the water coming out of your tap?

The dosage of 1 1/2 teaspoons of Equilibrium was per 10 gallons of water removed and replaced....was that the amount you removed?

Also what size tank are we talking about here please?
 -Roy

Last time I tested the dGH and dKH from my tap water (about a month ago, when I first started using Equilibrium), and the readings were 10dGH and 6dKH, respectively. However, the dGH of my tap water would sometimes reach 12dGH. I’m on my way home right now, and I’ll test again the G/KH readings of my tap water.

I consistently remove 50% of aquarium water, however my 55 gallon tank is more like 52/53 gallons of actual water. I’m assuming the amount of water removed would be roughly 26-27 gallons. 

On 5/1/2024 at 4:41 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

I think you’re a little discombobulated here. An addition of calcium would not cause a magnesium deficiency. As @Seattle_Aquarist request, what’s the GH of of t your source water?

My mistake then. I just provided the information with my other reply. 

[Mmiller2001]

Your tap water is fine imo. When you get home, read this https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/ph-kh-gh-tds/gh-explained

I believe this is a Micro issue and @Seattle_Aquarist will be a wealth of knowledge here shortly.

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 5/1/2024 at 2:45 PM, TwoFace99 said:

Last time I tested the dGH and dKH from my tap water (about a month ago, when I first started using Equilibrium), and the readings were 10dGH and 6dKH, respectively. However, the dGH of my tap water would sometimes reach 12dGH. I’m on my way home right now, and I’ll test again the G/KH readings of my tap water.

I consistently remove 50% of aquarium water, however my 55 gallon tank is more like 52/53 gallons of actual water. I’m assuming the amount of water removed would be roughly 26-27 gallons. 

My mistake then. I just provided the information with my other reply. 

Hi @TwoFace99,

I'll wait until you have a chance to check the current reading of your tank.  If indeed you have 10 dGH tap water then maybe you are not on Chicago municipal water but another utility that is using some or all well water as a supply.  I try to check my water at least every two months.  Why, because depending upon rainfall, snow melt, drought, and water source (which are not always static but may change) there can be variations in the nutrient levels.  -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 4:54 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Your tap water is fine imo. When you get home, read this https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/ph-kh-gh-tds/gh-explained

I believe this is a Micro issue and @Seattle_Aquarist will be a wealth of knowledge here shortly.

@Seattle_Aquarist I just tested my tap water and my KH is 8dKH (like my aquarium), my GH is 13dGH, and my PH is 7.8 (which has been consistent since I first started this tank). 

Disclaimer: My tap water has tested as low as 4dKH and 6dGH since this aquarium was started October 14 of last year. 

Edited May 1 by TwoFace99

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99,

Thank you for the re-test and confirmation.  If you dGH out of the tank water is 13 dGH and your tap water is only 6dGH then we need to get your tank dGH down closer to your tap water general hardness....about 6.0 dGH.  That may entail two or three 50% water changes to get it down closer to 6.0 dGH..  We want to re-set that tank to more "normal" parameters.

Here are the  most recent readings by the City of Chicago Water Utility.  I have highlighted the calcium and magnesium levels and they fairly consistent with about 35 ppm of calcium and 12 ppm of magnesium.  Since a water hardness test kit only tests for calcium and magnesium then the dGH out of the tap should be about 35 ppm + 12 ppm or 47 ppm or 5.0 dGH.  Test kits, and sometimes my eyesight are off but your tap water is likely close to the reading you took.  If that is the case, then the calcium to magnesium ratio (CA:Mg) is about 3:1. That is pretty much ideal since the recommend range is 3:1 - 4:1 calcium to magnesium ratio.  

I'm going to take another tack, I'm going to assume your water out of the tap is ideal.  If that is the case what is the issue?  What don't I see on that water analysis? Iron!

I know that you are dosing 5 pumps of Easy Iron I believe once a week....correct?  If that is correct then you are dosing 0.26 ppm of iron once a week.  But what type of iron?  I looked into Easy Iron and it uses three (3) types of iron EDTA, DTPA, and ferrous gluconate, unfortunately we don't know what the proportions of the various types of iron in the solution.  I know that  @Mmiller2001already explained the differences in the various types of iron and how they are effect by pH levels. With your pH of 7.8 any EDTA iron in the solution is useless.  Any of the DTPA iron is about 50% effective.  And the only iron in the solution that is readily available the plants is the ferrous gluconate.

So, we can assume that of the 0.26 ppm of iron you are dosing weekly maybe half is actually available to the plants or 0.13 ppm.  However EDTA chelated iron is the least expensive of the types of iron in the mix so likely is the largest proportion of the mix.  Ferrous gluconate is the most expensive form or iron so it likely the smallest portion of the mix. 

What is the correct amount of iron (Fe) to dose / maintain in our tanks.  The correct answer is whatever amount is needed to keep your plants healthy.  Years ago when I started 0.1 to 0.2 ppm was considered adequate.  I've met Tom Barr, the co-inventor of the Estimative Index (EI) method of dosing, and he used to recommend 1.0 ppm of iron but now I understand it is higher (up to 5.0 ppm).  If you ask 100 people on the forums you will likely get 100 different answers.  How much do I dose?  I dose 0.8 ppm of iron every week.

We have determined with your pH that ferrous gluconate is the preferred type of iron to use.  I would suggest picking up some Seachem Iron.  Seachem Iron is 100% ferrous gluconate.  The bottle recommends dosing 5 ml (1 teaspoon) per 50 gallons which will result in 0.1 ppm or iron.  Personally I don't believe that is even close.  Ferrous gluconate is iron in ferrous form (as opposed to ferric form) and is readily absorbed by our plants.  I would start with 1 teaspoon 3X per week and we may increase from there.  This will provide you with 3X the amount of available iron compared to what you are dosing now.  The good news is that you should quickly start to see results if iron is the cause of the problem, probably within a couple of weeks.  Again we watch only the new growth (personally I would watch the Hygro and the Ludwigia since they are fast growing).  The new leaves should come in greener and healthier.

Ferrous gluconate can get expensive if you purchase it in liquid form.  Once we determine that the problem is indeed iron then I would recommend picking up some ferrous gluconate powder and mix your own solution.  There are several places it can be purchased.

BTW, did you know that you have one of the best planted aquarium clubs in the country in Chicago?  Check out the Chicago Aquatic Plant Society, they hold regular meetings and you will meet like-minded individuals.  -Roy

 

Edited May 15 by Seattle_Aquarist

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 7:42 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,

Thank you for the re-test and confirmation.  If you dGH out of the tank water is 13 dGH and your tap water is only 6dGH then we need to get your tank dGH down closer to your tap water general hardness....about 6.0 dGH.  That may entail two or three 50% water changes to get it down closer to 6.0 dGH..  We want to re-set that tank to more "normal" parameters.

Here are the  most recent readings by the City of Chicago Water Utility.  I have highlighted the calcium and magnesium levels and they fairly consistent with about 35 ppm of calcium and 12 ppm of magnesium.  Since a water hardness test kit only tests for calcium and magnesium then the dGH out of the tap should be about 35 ppm + 12 ppm or 47 ppm or 5.0 dGH.  Test kits, and sometimes my eyesight are off but your tap water is likely close to the reading you took.  If that is the case, then the calcium to magnesium ratio (CA:Mg) is about 3:1. That is pretty much ideal since the recommend range is 3:1 - 4:1 calcium to magnesium ratio.  

I'm going to take another tack, I'm going to assume your water out of the tap is ideal.  If that is the case what is the issue?  What don't I see on that water analysis? Iron!

I know that you are dosing 5 pumps of Easy Iron I believe once a week....correct?  If that is correct then you are dosing 0.26 ppm of iron once a week.  But what type of iron?  I looked into Easy Iron and it uses three (3) types of iron EDTA, DTPA, and ferrous gluconate, unfortunately we don't know what the proportions of the various types of iron in the solution.  I know that  @Mmiller2001already explained the differences in the various types of iron and how they are effect by pH levels. With your pH of 6.7 any EDTA iron in the solution is useless.  Any of the DTPA iron is about 50% effective.  And the only iron in the solution that is readily available the plants is the ferrous gluconate.

So, we can assume that of the 0.26 ppm of iron you are dosing weekly maybe half is actually available to the plants or 0.13 ppm.  However EDTA chelated iron is the least expensive of the types of iron in the mix so likely is the largest proportion of the mix.  Ferrous gluconate is the most expensive form or iron so it likely the smallest portion of the mix. 

What is the correct amount of iron (Fe) to dose / maintain in our tanks.  The correct answer is whatever amount is needed to keep your plants healthy.  Years ago when I started 0.1 to 0.2 ppm was considered adequate.  I've met Tom Barr, the co-inventor of the Estimative Index (EI) method of dosing, and he used to recommend 1.0 ppm of iron but now I understand it is higher (up to 5.0 ppm).  If you ask 100 people on the forums you will likely get 100 different answers.  How much do I dose?  I dose 0.8 ppm of iron every week.

We have determined with your pH that ferrous gluconate is the preferred type of iron to use.  I would suggest picking up some Seachem Iron.  Seachem Iron is 100% ferrous gluconate.  The bottle recommends dosing 5 ml (1 teaspoon) per 50 gallons which will result in 0.1 ppm or iron.  Personally I don't believe that is even close.  Ferrous gluconate is iron in ferrous form (as opposed to ferric form) and is readily absorbed by our plants.  I would start with 1 teaspoon 3X per week and we may increase from there.  This will provide you with 3X the amount of available iron compared to what you are dosing now.  The good news is that you should quickly start to see results if iron is the cause of the problem, probably within a couple of weeks.  Again we watch only the new growth (personally I would watch the Hygro and the Ludwigia since they are fast growing).  The new leaves should come in greener and healthier.

Ferrous gluconate can get expensive if you purchase it in liquid form.  Once we determine that the problem is indeed iron then I would recommend picking up some ferrous gluconate powder and mix your own solution.  There are several places it can be purchased.

BTW, did you know that you have one of the best planted aquarium clubs in the country in Chicago?  Check out the Chicago Aquatic Plant Society, they hold regular meetings and you will meet like-minded individuals.  -Roy

 

Thank you as always @Seattle_Aquarist for your assistance. I’ll look into that Seachem Iron. However, what do I do with the Easy Iron? I’m assuming it would be pointless to use in combination with Seachem Iron.

Also, my tap water is currently 13dGH, not 6dGH. When I said 6dGH, I was referring to in the past, I have recorded my tap water reaching as low as 6dGH. 
 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99,

Even with a higher dGH it is likely that the Ca:Mg ratio is still approximately 3:1 so you should have more than sufficient Mg.  Let's try the Seachem Iron / ferrous gluconate and see how that works.  There test kits to determine the ppm of calcium in our water and with that information and the dGH we can compute what the ppm of Mg is.  But before we do that let's try using more of the correct type of iron.  Save the Easy Green Iron, it has a long shelf life if kept cool and dark.  If you decide to use CO2 and your pH drops as a result then you can use it more effectively.  -Roy

p.s.  I notice you have a large stone in your tank....did you test it to insure it is inert and does not contain limestone?

Edited May 2 by Seattle_Aquarist

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 8:32 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99,

Even with a higher dGH it is likely that the Ca:Mg ratio is still approximately 3:1 so you should have more than sufficient Mg.  Let's try the Seachem Iron / ferrous gluconate and see how that works.  There test kits to determine the ppm of calcium in our water and with that information and the dGH we can compute what the ppm of Mg is.  But before we do that let's try using more of the correct type of iron.  Save the Easy Green Iron, it has a long shelf life if kept cool and dark.  If you decide to use CO2 and your pH drops as a result then you can use it more effectively.  -Roy

p.s.  I notice you have a large stone in your tank....did you test it to insure it is inert and does not contain limestone?

No problem, I just placed an order for the Seachem Iron and should arrive Friday. 
 

As for the stones in the tank, I did not test if they were inert or possess limestone (They are Seiryuu rocks). 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99

Seiryu stone, actually Ying Stone from China now since Japan no longer allows the export of Seiryu Stone,  is a form of limestone which is a form of calcium carbonate.  If you are doing regular 50% water changes they should not be a problem but they are a source of limestone and do increase the dGH. -Roy

[TwoFace99]

On 5/1/2024 at 9:26 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Hi @TwoFace99

Seiryu stone, actually Ying Stone from China now since Japan no longer allows the export of Seiryu Stone,  is a form of limestone which is a form of calcium carbonate.  If you are doing regular 50% water changes they should not be a problem but they are a source of limestone and do increase the dGH. -Roy

Ah, that makes sense. I guess that’s another reason to stay on top of my weekly 50% water changes lol. Thanks as always.

[TwoFace99]

Hello, I’m just reporting an update of my aquarium on how things are progressing with my plants:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm (Added Easy Green)

KH: 7dKH

GH: 12dGH (I did add Equilibrium this time)

Phosphate: 1.0mg/L

-Today, I did perform my weekly 50% change before taking this test, and I added  Flourish Iron yesterday. I did add the Flourish Iron three times last week.

-Both Ludwigia Arcuata and Natans Super Red have shown noticeable growth and nice reddish tones amongst its submerged leaves, from the first day I received/used Flourish Iron (May 3rd) compared to today. They are two first two images.

-My Hygrophila Angustofolia and Corymbosa Compacta have not had the same success. The Angustfolia have been experiencing melting and are actively turning brown among the leaves. The Corymbosa haven’t shown any change, as they still have pale coloration and both plant species’ new growth appeared to be feasted on by my inhabitants. The new growth are a nice shade of yellow, but haven’t been able to grow properly all the same (The next two images).

-My Red Tiger Lotus have only grown more and more as well as have successfully blossomed a lily pad at the water surface, with a couple more on the way. No signs of deficiencies of any sort.

-My new Amazon Swords have experience melting which I have to cut off a few leaves, but are transitioning well with both being on their 3rd new leaf. 
-Bucephalandra Lamandau Mini are still doing good. Like the Anubias Barteri, they have naturally experienced growth a lot more slowly but surely. I don’t notice anything abnormal, outside of a couple of leaves (like no more than 2-3 out of the dozens) having one random hole. 

-My Java Fern has been recovering nicely.

-The Moneywort (Bacopa Monneri) have been consistent, no signs of stress/deficiency from my perspective. 
 

Sorry, for the haziness (Equilibrium usage), but my photos keep coming up as black-screened, so I had to take some new photos. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited May 14 by TwoFace99
My photos are showing up as black-screened

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 5/14/2024 at 4:05 PM, TwoFace99 said:

Hello, I’m just reporting an update of my aquarium on how things are progressing with my plants:

pH: 7.8

Ammonia: 0ppm

Nitrite: 0ppm

Nirate: 20ppm (Added Easy Green)

KH: 7dKH

GH: 12dGH (I did add Equilibrium this time)

Phosphate: 1.0mg/L

-Today, I did perform my weekly 50% change before taking this test, and I added  Flourish Iron yesterday. I did add the Flourish Iron three times last week.

-Both Ludwigia Arcuata and Natans Super Red have shown noticeable growth and nice reddish tones amongst its submerged leaves, from the first day I received/used Flourish Iron (May 3rd) compared to today. They are two first two images.

-My Hygrophila Angustofolia and Corymbosa Compacta have not had the same success. The Angustfolia have been experiencing melting and are actively turning brown among the leaves. The Corymbosa haven’t shown any change, as they still have pale coloration and both plant species’ new growth appeared to be feasted on by my inhabitants. The new growth are a nice shade of yellow, but haven’t been able to grow properly all the same (The next two images).

-My Red Tiger Lotus have only grown more and more as well as have successfully blossomed a lily pad at the water surface, with a couple more on the way. No signs of deficiencies of any sort.

-My new Amazon Swords have experience melting which I have to cut off a few leaves, but are transitioning well with both being on their 3rd new leaf. 
-Bucephalandra Lamandau Mini are still doing good. Like the Anubias Barteri, they have naturally experienced growth a lot more slowly but surely. I don’t notice anything abnormal, outside of a couple of leaves (like no more than 2-3 out of the dozens) having one random hole. 

-My Java Fern has been recovering nicely.

-The Moneywort (Bacopa Monneri) have been consistent, no signs of stress/deficiency from my perspective. 
 

Sorry, for the haziness (Equilibrium usage), but my photos keep coming up as black-screened, so I had to take some new photos.

Hi @TwoFace99,

The Ludwigia arcuata is a good indicator plant.  Why?  Because it is a fast grower and will show improvement in the growing conditions faster than some of the other plants in your tank.

The two Hygro species (augustifolia and corymbosa) were both grown emersed so any leaves that were present when they arrived will die slowly as the stems re-absorb the nutrients from them and use it for new growth.

I see the angelfish enjoy salads, unfortunately there isn't much that can be done about that.  New leaves of any type are softer than older leaves and likely more tasty as well.

If it were my tank I would just stay the course and continue as you have been.  Continue to watch the new growth for improvement, not any of the existing leaves from before you started the change in dosing.

Anubias and java ferns have to grow a good root system before you will see new growth, this can take some time.  Look closely at the rhizomes for signs of root growth.

Hope this helps! -Roy

[johnnyxxl]

Great looking recovery 

[TwoFace99]

Thank you as always. I know you said stay the course with my tank @Seattle_Aquarist, but I can’t help but notice my Amazon Sword (in the far back) has the new leaves it’s growing melting shortly after they sprout to their seemingly full size from the crown. I do have this tank with an active substrate (Controsoil) and place root tabs (2 for this one). Should I let the plant adjust itself or I need to take additional measures? 

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Hi @TwoFace99

That leaf looks large enough that it was likely starting to grow before you began dosing with Equilibrium.  When new leaves melt, or fail to form properly it is typically a symptom of insufficient available calcium.  However sometimes it is the result of too much fertilizer...be sure to plant plant tabs several inches away from the crown of a plant to avoid 'fertilizer burn'.  Stay the Course and see what the next leaf that emerges look like.  -Roy

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Calcium is essential for the growth of shoot and root tips (meristems). Growing point dies. Margins of young leaves are scalloped and abnormally green and, due to inhibition of cell wall formation, the leaf tips may be "gelatinous" and stuck together inhibiting leaf unfolding. Roots are stunted.  ammonium or magnesium excess may induce a calcium deficiency in plants... calcium deficiency