Holes in Anubias

[Knew tooth is]

For the last month or so, small holes have been appearing in my anubias. As you can see from the image, the cryptocoryne next to the anubias remains 'unholey'. A change is that about 4 months ago I unknowingly transported a bladder snail or two upon planting a Java fern purchased from my LFS. The bladder snails have been reproducing (surprise, surprise). Also, the tank contains mystery snails and a plecostomus, and mollies. From my reading, the bladder snails and mystery snails do not feed on live plants, and neither do the plecostomus and mollies. Any thoughts on the hole-maker? Thanks.

[Whitecloud09]

On 2/5/2024 at 12:16 PM, Knew tooth is said:

For the last month or so, small holes have been appearing in my anubias. As you can see from the image, the cryptocoryne next to the anubias remains 'unholey'. A change is that about 4 months ago I unknowingly transported a bladder snail or two upon planting a Java fern purchased from my LFS. The bladder snails have been reproducing (surprise, surprise). Also, the tank contains mystery snails and a plecostomus, and mollies. From my reading, the bladder snails and mystery snails do not feed on live plants, and neither do the plecostomus and mollies. Any thoughts on the hole-maker? Thanks.

How much fertilizer do you use? And what kind? @Knew tooth is

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 2/5/2024 at 12:16 PM, Knew tooth is said:

For the last month or so, small holes have been appearing in my anubias. As you can see from the image, the cryptocoryne next to the anubias remains 'unholey'. A change is that about 4 months ago I unknowingly transported a bladder snail or two upon planting a Java fern purchased from my LFS. The bladder snails have been reproducing (surprise, surprise). Also, the tank contains mystery snails and a plecostomus, and mollies. From my reading, the bladder snails and mystery snails do not feed on live plants, and neither do the plecostomus and mollies. Any thoughts on the hole-maker? Thanks.

The ACO nutrient deficiency guide would suggest that it needs more potassium:

@Seattle_Aquarist , what do you think? Those holes aren't ringed with yellow or brown, but the leaves look pale overall to me.

[Knew tooth is]

Dear Bigdog99 & Rube_Goldfish- thanks for your responses. I believe you've put the nail through the anubias hole. As far as fertilizer, guilty for not reading the instructions for the use of Easy Green. The course of fertilizer has been Flourish Root Tabs about every 5-6 weeks, but, here's the kicker, spritz of Easy Iron and Easy Green at the 5-6 week mark. Will up the Easy Green and, at the same time, Easy Iron, to darken up that green (re ACO). Thanks much. And, here's to reading instructions!

[Whitecloud09]

On 2/5/2024 at 8:08 PM, Knew tooth is said:

Dear Bigdog99 & Rube_Goldfish- thanks for your responses. I believe you've put the nail through the anubias hole. As far as fertilizer, guilty for not reading the instructions for the use of Easy Green. The course of fertilizer has been Flourish Root Tabs about every 5-6 weeks, but, here's the kicker, spritz of Easy Iron and Easy Green at the 5-6 week mark. Will up the Easy Green and, at the same time, Easy Iron, to darken up that green (re ACO). Thanks much. And, here's to reading instructions!

Yes that is the problem but it’s fine. U have time to save it! 1-2 doses per week will do! I am glad to help and good luck @Knew tooth is!!

[Seattle_Aquarist]

Thank you @Rube_Goldfish for the shout out.  @Knew tooth is I suspect the holes are the result of physical damage caused by the snails since the holes are not round which would be typical of insufficient available potassium; also the physical damage crosses over leaf veins and potassium typically shows up in the interveinal area of the leaves.  If it was the plecostomus the damage would be much larger and more elongated. 

Likely the cause of the damage is the leaves are weak.  The newer leaves of the anubias are light in color with darker veins, this indicates insufficient available iron (or using iron with the wrong chelate for the pH of the tank).  Since you have it on hand try dosing the Easy Iron per the instructions on the bottle for one month.  Watch the new leaves as they emerge, are the interveinal areas (area between the leaf veins) darker green matching more the color of the leaf veins.  If so you are on the right track.  If you pH is over 6.8 (i.e. alkaline - 7.0 or above) I would suggest changing over to Seachem Iron which is made from ferrous gluconate and is more easily absorbed by plants in tanks where the pH is alkaline.  Let us know how things progress. -Roy

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 2/5/2024 at 8:52 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

Thank you @Rube_Goldfish for the shout out.  @Knew tooth is I suspect the holes are the result of physical damage caused by the snails since the holes are not round which would be typical of insufficient available potassium; also the physical damage crosses over leaf veins and potassium typically shows up in the interveinal area of the leaves.  If it was the plecostomus the damage would be much larger and more elongated. 

Likely the cause of the damage is the leaves are weak.  The newer leaves of the anubias are light in color with darker veins, this indicates insufficient available iron (or using iron with the wrong chelate for the pH of the tank).  Since you have it on hand try dosing the Easy Iron per the instructions on the bottle for one month.  Watch the new leaves as they emerge, are the interveinal areas (area between the leaf veins) darker green matching more the color of the leaf veins.  If so you are on the right track.  If you pH is over 6.8 (i.e. alkaline - 7.0 or above) I would suggest changing over to Seachem Iron which is made from ferrous gluconate and is more easily absorbed by plants in tanks where the pH is alkaline.  Let us know how things progress. -Roy

Thanks for your time and expertise!

[Knew tooth is]

Thank you Seattle_Aquarist. Going to start pumping the Easy Iron and Easy Green. And, per your suggestion, if after a month, not obtaining a more greening of the leaves, it's off to Seachem Iron- the pH of the water is alkaline. A striking graph you provided, not much Fe is available with EDTA chelation. 

[MattyM]

I would hold off on the Iron, and just start dosing Easy Green, which has Iron. Start with a low dose, like half the recommended dose, and increase as needed. If you see algae appear, dose less or less frequently. 

Monitor the new growth and be patient, it may take time to dial in. Only add in the Iron if you don't see any improvement with the Easy Green after a month or so. 

I only recommend starting slowly with ferts b/c it seems you have mainly slower growing plants, and any extra ferts in the water column will just generate algae. 

Good luck 👍

[Knew tooth is]

Dear Matty M, Thanks for your insight. Indeed, want to avoid algae, the nemesis. 

[Whitecloud09]

On 2/6/2024 at 5:48 PM, Knew tooth is said:

Dear Matty M, Thanks for your insight. Indeed, want to avoid algae, the nemesis. 

I hate it! It is sooo bad and ugly! @Knew tooth is

[Seattle_Aquarist]

On 2/6/2024 at 9:52 AM, Knew tooth is said:

Thank you Seattle_Aquarist. Going to start pumping the Easy Iron and Easy Green. And, per your suggestion, if after a month, not obtaining a more greening of the leaves, it's off to Seachem Iron- the pH of the water is alkaline. A striking graph you provided, not much Fe is available with EDTA chelation. 

Hi @Knew tooth is,
Remember we are watching the new leaves as they emerge and mature.....NOT existing leaves they will change very if at all.  Why?  Because iron is an immobile nutrient and does not move easily within a plant/stem/leaf.  If it is not available at the time the leave is formed the result is what you are seeing in the tank.  -Roy

[Knew tooth is]

Hi Roy, thanks for emphasizing that it is the emerging leaves that, hopefully, will now darken as you described. In reviewing images from the web, I can see how comparatively light colored the leaves are of my anubias. I suppose that I partly got away with the relative lack of iron in the water due to the root tabs containing ferrous gluconate. Then the arrival of the bladder snails. These bladder snails have outstayed their welcome and are being shown the door. The mystery snails stay on the bottom leaves of the anubias and on the cryptocoryne, and they don't travel on the java fern.

On another note, another problem. In a different tank, a 20 gallon high, I've been unable to prevent the algae from growing on the plant shown in the image. I forget the name of the plant. This plant was growing great guns, with delightful pink leaves on top and then, the dreaded algae struck. I think it's hair algae. This is the only plant in the tank. I wanted to make sure that I didn't get algae before planting additional plants and this plant was growing well. To try resolving the problem, I lowered the amount of light (to "40" on Hygger, don't know how many lumens this represents; 100 is maximum brightness) and the time of light is 8 hours per 24 hour. The plant grows and then, still, is overwhelmed by the algae. I greatly trimmed the plant, down to a couple inches, such that no visible algae remained, but the same story occurred. This is a community tank containing a fat nerite snail, two otocincluses, a panda catfish and an albino catfish, a golden Chinese algae eater, two clown-faced plecos and a few assorted top and middle water column eaters. What to do? In terms of non-live adjustments, cut back more on the light and/or decrease food addition? I have not fed this plant root tabs and I do not use Easy Green and Easy Iron. The plant was doing fine even without these supplements. On the live adjustment side, maybe try a Florida Flagfish- although I read these are too aggressive for a community tank, a different type of snail, a Siamese algae eater? 

Thanks again.