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Knew tooth is

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  1. Hi Roy, thanks for emphasizing that it is the emerging leaves that, hopefully, will now darken as you described. In reviewing images from the web, I can see how comparatively light colored the leaves are of my anubias. I suppose that I partly got away with the relative lack of iron in the water due to the root tabs containing ferrous gluconate. Then the arrival of the bladder snails. These bladder snails have outstayed their welcome and are being shown the door. The mystery snails stay on the bottom leaves of the anubias and on the cryptocoryne, and they don't travel on the java fern. On another note, another problem. In a different tank, a 20 gallon high, I've been unable to prevent the algae from growing on the plant shown in the image. I forget the name of the plant. This plant was growing great guns, with delightful pink leaves on top and then, the dreaded algae struck. I think it's hair algae. This is the only plant in the tank. I wanted to make sure that I didn't get algae before planting additional plants and this plant was growing well. To try resolving the problem, I lowered the amount of light (to "40" on Hygger, don't know how many lumens this represents; 100 is maximum brightness) and the time of light is 8 hours per 24 hour. The plant grows and then, still, is overwhelmed by the algae. I greatly trimmed the plant, down to a couple inches, such that no visible algae remained, but the same story occurred. This is a community tank containing a fat nerite snail, two otocincluses, a panda catfish and an albino catfish, a golden Chinese algae eater, two clown-faced plecos and a few assorted top and middle water column eaters. What to do? In terms of non-live adjustments, cut back more on the light and/or decrease food addition? I have not fed this plant root tabs and I do not use Easy Green and Easy Iron. The plant was doing fine even without these supplements. On the live adjustment side, maybe try a Florida Flagfish- although I read these are too aggressive for a community tank, a different type of snail, a Siamese algae eater? Thanks again.
  2. Dear Matty M, Thanks for your insight. Indeed, want to avoid algae, the nemesis.
  3. Thank you Seattle_Aquarist. Going to start pumping the Easy Iron and Easy Green. And, per your suggestion, if after a month, not obtaining a more greening of the leaves, it's off to Seachem Iron- the pH of the water is alkaline. A striking graph you provided, not much Fe is available with EDTA chelation.
  4. Dear Bigdog99 & Rube_Goldfish- thanks for your responses. I believe you've put the nail through the anubias hole. As far as fertilizer, guilty for not reading the instructions for the use of Easy Green. The course of fertilizer has been Flourish Root Tabs about every 5-6 weeks, but, here's the kicker, spritz of Easy Iron and Easy Green at the 5-6 week mark. Will up the Easy Green and, at the same time, Easy Iron, to darken up that green (re ACO). Thanks much. And, here's to reading instructions!
  5. For the last month or so, small holes have been appearing in my anubias. As you can see from the image, the cryptocoryne next to the anubias remains 'unholey'. A change is that about 4 months ago I unknowingly transported a bladder snail or two upon planting a Java fern purchased from my LFS. The bladder snails have been reproducing (surprise, surprise). Also, the tank contains mystery snails and a plecostomus, and mollies. From my reading, the bladder snails and mystery snails do not feed on live plants, and neither do the plecostomus and mollies. Any thoughts on the hole-maker? Thanks.
  6. Thanks Guppysnail, I forgot to mention that this is new growth.
  7. Could someone please tell me what's going on with my java fern? As shown in the image, the end of one leaf is dark green. Another leaf of this same size is light green throughout. I've looked on the charts'/diagrams for what might be the problem. But I've been unable to find a similar picture on the these diagrams. Any thoughts would be helpful.
  8. Hi JoeQ, The roots look light brown. The image is actually a fair representation of their color. No snail invasion, just one (or maybe two, if alive), small horned snails. Thanks.
  9. Hello. I'm having a problem with my Vallisneria. The original sends out runners and then eventually dies (see arrow in image). The new growths grow just fine for a while, but then the roots become above ground (in image, the new growth in the background). Eventually the new leaves die, although there are new runners. The plant is provided with root tabs about every 3 weeks and Easy Green and Easy Iron about once every 2 weeks . Light is medium LED. I haven't seen any fish dig up the plants or nibble on the leaves. Any thoughts on what's going on? Perhaps Easy Green and Easy Iron could be added more frequently, if this is a problem. Thanks.
  10. Hi Colu, Just an update and a thanks. Blue Gourami eating, not hiding (kanaplex not needed). Fish keeper relieved. Best
  11. Hi Colu, thanks for your comments and questions. The good news is that the Gourami (3 spotted; see picture) is still alive. The less than good news is that the Gourami is still hiding in the corner, comes up for gulps only occasionally, and I don't see it eating. Changed to dried brine shrimp and different flake foods and still haven't seen any eating. The Gourami also used to readily eat the 2 different kinds of bottom pellets (for the pleco's, catfish, otocinclus, and algae eater), but still no sign of eating. The water parameters are: pH 7.4, KH 50-100 ppm (3 drops with API kit), GH 100-200 ppm (10 drops with API kit), ammonia 0-0.25 ppm (similar to tap water), nitrite 0 ppm, nitrate 5 ppm. The picture was taken after placing my hand in the corner where it hides and then it comes swimming out right away. Of course, I dislike doing this stress-inducing maneuver. Didn't used to be like this. About two weeks ago, the Gourami was eating, competing well with the other fish for the food- including mollies with voracious appetites along with several tetras, and swimming steadily and freely throughout the tank, unharassed. There used to be another Gourami in this tank, but the other Gourami was incessantly tail nipping. I moved this other Gourami to another tank and it is continuing to do really well. No new fish have been introduced into this tank. Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
  12. My beautiful blue gourami, about 5 yrs old, for the past several days doesn't eat and stays in the corner between gulps of air at the surface. Could this be a sign of old age or a disease of some kind? The gourami is in a community tank and all of the other fish are doing fine. Should I move the gourami to another tank by itself? I would hate to cause stress.
  13. AllFishNoBrakes, thanks for the advice. Will start the squishing. I'm looking for that voila experience. You read my mind. re peace of mind. p.s. thumbs up on your handle.
  14. Hi Pepere- thanks for the suggestions. Could the dechlorinator be the one used to condition water? If so, after rinsing, any suggestion for the amount? Interesting that the pads might be simple felt. Perhaps the pads could also be cleaned with peroxide or bleach.
  15. Ziss Air Stone: Does anyone know where the small, circular pads with the hole in the middle, which are inserted between the top and lower portions of the stone (maybe the pads called "diffuser pads") can be purchased separately from the actual "stone" portion? Also, does anyone know what material these diffuser pads are made out of, such that these pads could fashioned? I also have an "UPETTOOLS Aquarium Air Stone Fish Tank Nano Bubble Stone Kit with Control Valve" (see picture). The bubbling has been reduced, presumably due to clogged frits. There is significant algae on the stone top. Algae eaters don't remove the algae, although they can be observed munching away, there doesn't appear to be much of a visible decrease. I've read that bleach diluted with water (1 part:3 parts is one suggestion), or a hydrogen peroxide solution (diluted to 3% is one suggestion) have been used successfully with air stones in general. The solutions follow boiling the stone for 10 min. My concern is the successful, full removal of the bleach/hydrogen peroxide from the cavity just below the stone, i.e., where the air entry port. Thoughts on this or other methods? Thanks.
  16. Hi AndEES, You're right, turbulence is down. If the fish need the magnitude of turbulence provided by the stock set-up, then this adaptation would "not float the boat". This application would be advantageous when the fish-type/fish size (fry, e.g.), don't relish turbulence. An additional advantage is one can maintain high filtration, even using a HOB filter with specs for utilization at the outer end of tank volume. In the circumstance in the initial communication, the HOB spec's were for a 10-30 gallon tank and the tank was 10 gallon. I suppose one could even extend this concept to an "oversized" HOB, which would provide even further filtration. As pointed out by nabokovfan87, there are several baffles on the market that decrease turbulence and would provide this advantage. In the model presented, one get's the extra kick of filtration. Thanks for your observation and comment.
  17. Hola fellow/fella forum-ites. Thought I'd take the liberty of passing on a few adaptations that may stretch a modest budget. Interested in your thoughts or any feedback you might have. 1) On a 20 gal high fitted with a HOB AquaClear 50, I purchased sponge (photo) from Amazon, cut it into a long piece using a cutting board, pierced the sponge with a letter opener, and twisted the intake tube through the sponge, making a tight fit (photo). The previous sponge attached to the intake tube became of sorry condition (photo); not exactly sure why. But, this long sponge allows for greater area for uptake and has not decreased outflow. Am considering drilling a few holes in the upper portion of the lower section of the intake tube. There is plenty of left-over sponge for additional filter for placement in an HOB reservoir or for making additional pre-filters; 2) On a 10 gal fitted with an AquaClear30 (specified for a 10-30 gal tank), the outflow was too vigorous, particularly for the fry. Adapted a sponge to decrease velocity of flow entry into the aquarium by partially cutting through the upper portion of a sponge and then fastening the sponge with grocery store ties to the uprights of the sponge/charcoal/biomass holder (photo). This additional sponge does not appear to decrease total flow. Moreover, one now has a "post-filter", with the outflow either passing along the sides of the sponge or through the sponge proper; 3) Purchased from Amazon small favor bags (photo). In these bags are placed bio media rings. The entire bag can be removed when cleaning and changing the sponge/charcoal. The rings, with their bacterial colonies can be preserved and, at the same time, algal growth and detritus/fecal material can be removed by swishing the bag in the siphoned aquarium water. Removes the tiresome chore of I picking out each ring, one-by-one, with any number only to fall to the depths of the aquarium and needing to be "fished out". One can also place charcoal in these bags and easily remove and replace with new charcoal; 3) Thermometers with suction cup for attachment to the glass of the aquarium: I've had a couple that no longer stick. Placed the suction cup towards the bottom of the thermometer and wrapped the weights used for holding plants into the substrate, around the suction sup (photos). The thermometer tip is then inserted into the substrate.
  18. Dear Mary W.- "refrigerator therapeutics". Sounds good. I'll give this method a shot, too. Current update: Couldn't find Seltzer in the nearby grocery so went for Diet Tonic Water. It's been about a week post-treatment. The treated hair ball portion has turned a lighter green. Could be due to death of the hair algae, consistent with observations from Forum contributors. Hopefully, under the mop is some sort of Moss Ball. The "control" hair ball, that is, untreated, looks the same as it did a week ago, not unexpectedly. In any case, more rolling and refrigeration on the agenda. Thanks for your input. And, of course, glad your moss ball is all perked up, ready for Prom.
  19. Thanks all. And nice picture, kendrq. Something to work towards, along with exercising the weekly (egg) role. Looks like, for a quarter of the growth, Club Soda for a couple hours and in the dark. I don't usually drink this way (JK). But if it works, it works. Worth a try to donate some mixer to the cause. pH is more on the acidic side. So, as I read, perhaps even a more selective -cidal effect on the hair algae. Now I'm curious if the entire greenery is hair ball (as in, my cat's hair ball). We'll see if it whittle downs to the size of a pea or, for that matter, split pea. A cliff hanger, but stay tuned. Thanks for all the input.
  20. Dear Rube_Goldfish: saw the moss ball being superglued to the wood. once the hair algae-moss ball gets rid of the former component, fingers crossed, I can implement something like this (except for the British accent).
  21. Odd Duck and Nabakovfan87: lot's of food for thought. Odd Duck- I notice that you didn't mention Easy Carbon. Is there a reason why you may not favor this chemical approach? Experiment with Seltzer water would be of interest. Certainly worth a bit of the hair algae-moss ball. Nabakovfan87- I do have Easy Carbon, but have not been using it. While the glutaraldehyde reportedly doesn't hurt fish, would it be safe to use when fry are present? Seems like the fry would be more susceptible to negative effects, as if one were overdosing. Any ideas on where one might start out with dosing? How about nerite snails? I viewed Cory's blog and perhaps these creatures would be helpful, taking a ride while eating. I'll see if I can get a SAE from my LFS (getting a couple of these abbreviations in).
  22. JJena, meatballs- good (and hungry) analogy. Looks like from the other comments I might be forming hair algae meatballs. First step is to make hairless meatballs, so to speak. JJena, meatballs- good (and hungry) analogy. Looks like from the other comments I might be forming hair algae meatballs. First step is to make hairless meatballs, so to speak.
  23. Thanks for the tips, Nabakovfan87, on taking better care of the Marimo Moss Ball. I will be more regular on my upkeep. Odd Duck, and others, because the moss ball isn't moss at all, but an algae, will a Chinese Algae eater eat it? Rube-Goldfish- a mat is an interesting idea. I'll look for some pictures.
  24. JJena- I was wondering, do you think that too much like a ball may prevent light from entering the inner core? Perhaps more log shaped? Related to this is that the strands of moss are somewhat fragile and have a tendency to break off if one isn't careful. Overall, though, I'm pleased that the moss is growing, that the fish like it, and it does have a free-form attractiveness of its own. So maybe it is what it is.
  25. Hi Odd Duck and Nabakovfan87- thanks for the responses. Attached is an image of the Moss Ball. I gently, with a net, took the "ball" out of the tank, and placed in a bowl of tank water, when I syphoned the mulm because the ball collects the debris. The fry like pecking at the ball, probably because it collects some food and maybe the algae (I didn't realize that the moss ball was a form of algae. thanks). I was wondering if I could get the Moss Ball to grow more evenly. I've been rotating the ball every week and a half to 2 weeks, at the time of water change. Thanks.
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