Breeding box

[beastie]

So I have a super dumb question. I have a box into which I plan to move the eggs. I have an airfilter with a stone for gentle movement. Hornwort/java moss is ready

Now do I put in fresh water in the box? Another tank water? 50/50 mix? Fresh water will not be stable or have the bacteria it needs, now?  Does it need light or will some light be enough? ( I read some fry are photosensitive, some need light for eating)

I never done that, I always had a box in the tank under the light with the heater. Never outside of the tank but now for pseudomugil the breeding is not happening

 

Thanks

[Daan C]

Not very experienced int his myself but I use tankwater.
I also have a setup with a spongefilter that pushes tankwater into breederbox and that overflows trough a sponge into the tank again. So the tank keeps the breederbox clean as I tend to overfeed it

It's also under the same light as my lowtech

[GoofyGarra]

Personally for corydora eggs i would just use tankwater. Often people reccomend starting with tank water but doing lots of water changes to keep water quality high. I just had the same tank light on it, but the fry will need some light to find food.

Photosensitive eggs are most commonly found in Tetras who originate from blackwater sources, pseudomugil are river fish so should not have this issue.

[tolstoy21]

I move my cory eggs into a 2 gallon with an air stone.

I don't use tank water, but the water I put into that small 'hatchery' comes from the same source as the breeder's tank, so the basic params are the same. I put a few elder cones in the tank with the eggs as an anti-fungal agent. I don't put any plants or anything at all in there so as to not create or gather detritus or mulm.

As soon as the eggs hatch, I wait until their yolk sacks are absorbed then siphon the young out and put them into a hang-on-the-sided breeder box hanging on the side of the grow-out (a 40 breeder). I put a few neocaridina shrimp in that breeder box to keep it clean and eat any uneaten food or gunk.

Once the fry are big enough to not get eaten by the other cories, I dump them unto the 40g. 

Rinse, repeat.

Other fish species, I spawn/hatch differently and don't use breeder boxes.

Edited January 28 by tolstoy21

[beastie]

Ok back to this, since my first attempt failed.

I want to hatch the luminatus eggs and they take two weeks at least in the room temp.

Even if I put new/tank water combo and aerate, in two weeks, the water will not be good I presume. What shall I do, replace a smidge every day? That is why I initially put the plants in to help with it, but the hornwort melted and caused more mess and ofcourse, snails appeared

I tried in the breeder box in a tank, but the eggs didnt have enough movement either

 

Tips appreciated. Thanks

[Tony s]

They make an egg tumbler, supposed to work really well for Cory eggs. Keeps them mostly suspended and moving until hatched.movement is via airflow, so you set the pressure. 

https://www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/breeding-supplies/products/ziss-egg-tumbler

Edited February 12 by Tony s

[TOtrees]

I hatched furcata eggs in a ~1qt jar with just an airline and no stone. No heater or filtration, and ambient room lighting only. I use methylene blue as antifungus agent, 3 drops per quart (or per litre). Same as @tolstoy21 I use fresh clean water not tank water, but it's the same source of water as what goes in my tanks. Furcatus has a notoriously low hatch rate, so every few days over the ~3 weeks they take to hatch (at my room temp - I could likely speed it up a bit if I put them somewhere warmer), I pick out any fungused or non-viable eggs (white/blue vs clear) and replace the water, 100%.