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hard water?? and high ph


glenn anthony
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anyway my hardness in one of my 5gall nanos is up too 200ppm and my PH which was around 7.4 is now 7.8 what would be best way to soften my water in that tank, my betta passed a few months ago and would really love a pea puffer for that tank, lot of anubias, and java fern windelov and  and medium size piece of mopani wood

also only difference between the nano and my 40B is that i started using hikaris aquarium solutions ultimate as a de-chlor/water conditioner, my thinking was small tank and according to bottle helps keep a more stable ph and kh                                   Tanks for any input

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Sorry to hear about your Betta. It's never fun to lose a wet pet.

I think that the smaller a tank, the more _unstable_ its water chemistry is. I'd assume that the 40 breeder stays more stable, less prone to fluctuation on the whole, than the 5 gal nano tank.

I let plants go crazy in my tiny tanks. Indian Swamped, Duckweed, Water Wisteria, Java Moss -- I find that the plants help to balance the whole eco system, absorb any ammonia spikes, etc. You could use Peat moss all over in there -- or in a net suspended someplace. That can lower pH some. Plants really help to lower hardness.

You might enjoy keeping a small African Killifish species in there. They don't mind wide parameters. I breed Fundulopanchax Scheeli (Emerald Killifish) in 5.5 gal aquariums. They're gorgeous, but more shy than Bettas...

57D2CF53-8BD6-45B6-BFFF-AEF69B1C564D.jpe

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Essentially, you'll see it more with smaller tanks, but what you're seeing is a type of mineral build-up.

If you don't remove enough water, then when you top off the tank and do your water changes you're slowly adding minerals over time.  Let's say you do minimal water changes, 10-15% once a month or something.  As the water evaporates, then you'll have the TDS (things in the water) increase.  To counter this you would top off with RO or distilled water.  Imagine that the TDS increasing is only your KH.  Those minerals build up over time, raises the PH, and that's what you're seeing.

Let's start there and see if that fits the situation though.  What is your maintenance like on the small tank?  How does the tank parameters compare to the tap water parameters.

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I would get some tap water, let it sit overnight, and then test it in the morning to compare to what you were seeing in your tank.

That will give you a baseline for what water going in is like. Messing with water chemistry can end poorly if not done right.

Most fish will do ok in slightly harder water once they get used to it. There are some that have trouble breeding if the water is too hard but that's not that common.

If you grow Val it can actually use the carbonate from hard water as a carbon source (like how it uses CO2) so it actually like having slightly harder water.

On 11/3/2023 at 7:10 PM, Fish Folk said:

They're gorgeous, but more shy than Bettas...

Nothobranchius Killis also like harder water and they tend to not be shy

Edited by Schuyler
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thanks to all, tank is full of slow growing plants, and yes my 40B is alot more stable,  should be testing tap since havent done it since summer time, and as far as maintenance. Well had the betta for almost 4 yrs but since its been fishless for around 6 months except for alot of large anubias and med size jave fern, ive only been doin 1/2 gall top offs and due to the mopani wood get a lot of wood particulate, so, very small siphoning of top of gravel, and filter sponge rinsing.

if i do go the pea puffer route would the hardness be an issue (would really like to get a trio of peas, and crap ton of plants and get a 20long)   oh and anyone think the diff water conditioner in the nano 5gall (aquarium solutions ultimate vs prime which i use in my 40B, have any effect

just need a small tank for my nightstand helps me relax at night ahh guess im a nerm afterall

thank yous to all

 

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On 11/5/2023 at 6:02 AM, glenn anthony said:

if i do go the pea puffer route would the hardness be an issue (would really like to get a trio of peas, and crap ton of plants and get a 20long)   oh and anyone think the diff water conditioner in the nano 5gall (aquarium solutions ultimate vs prime which i use in my 40B, have any effect

I would recommend searching for more when it comes to pea puffers. They seem to require lots of live food cultures, deworming and they ideally seem to require a minimum group of 6. Even though they are tiny, I think 5g tanksize and a group of 3 may lead problems. Not a personal experience, but I talked to some people who keep them and made in depth research for a while back then because I was also interested in keeping them. I still am, actually. One day!

This is a very indepth guide If you haven't seen it already:

https://www.pufferfishenthusiastsworldwide.com/post/c-travancoricus 

to quote some: 

"Groups of 6 are usually the minimum in which a harmonious and balanced group dynamic can be achieved, and this is why smaller groups (containing less than 6) typically experience more infighting. Pea Puffers feel less secure in lower numbers because this causes stress and nervousness that can then contribute to aggressive tenancies. When a dominant member has only two or three other conspecifics in the aquarium then they may concentrate all of their aggression onto one or two particular fish, which can be catastrophic for the individuals on the receiving end of it. Through our own extensive observations of captive Pea Puffers, as well as stewarding thousands of members in our groups every year, we are confident in our stance that keeping Pea Puffers in groups of 6 (or more) is the only way to ensure long-term success in captivity."

"A group of 6 Pea Puffers should be housed in nothing smaller than a 60L (15.85 US gallons). 60L tanks are common and easy to find throughout Europe but are less common in the United States. USA-based keepers are encouraged to look towards 20-gallon (long) aquariums (approximately 76 liters) as a minimum, but of course, bigger is always better."

Here is a video of how they schoal in nature:

 

 

Edited by Lennie
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hmm,  I was under the impression that its the amazon puffers that need a larger 55+ tanks cause although small they are egg scatter so not as agrressive (know as the friendle puffer cause they can be in groups

I know about the live foods ,but seen some fish keepers fead tham alot of frozen blood worms etc  but I've been wanting some of these guys for a few years now, but for sake of a life i of course not push it 

thanks to all

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hey lennie, been reading that pea puffer link, that you had sent me.  Anyways lotta good info there, so many thanks thats was one of the larger dwarf puff sites i have come to find (thanks to you)  I will normally test tap water in fall, winter, and spring/summer (found mt tap H2O as of 3 days ago is at aprox 6.4  5gallon tank went from 7.3ppm to 7.9/8.0

40 gallon breeder set up is of course way more stable. initially bought the 5g as a quarantine tank/hopital tank, that didn't last too long

so a double thank you,     for that link on the pea puffer

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