Lighting Recommendations (75 gal)

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

I am currently in the market for a new aquarium light for my 75 gallon aquarium but haven'tbeen able to figure out what would be the best option to get.  The aquarium currently has mostly low to medium light plants in it, but I'm sure over time that will evolve and I'll ultimately at some point change things up an high light plants will eventually find their way in there.  My current light is an older Finnex 24/7 planted light.  I was looking though their website for their new lights, but I have to admit, their lighting options aren't setup very intuitively and I'm not sure which would be the best option.  I do have a top on my 75 gallon aquarium, so something that fits tighter to the glass would be a plus.  I've noticed some people are posting lighting profiles from their phone, what lights are those from?  Are those lights advantageous vs the finnex lights?

[JoeQ]

The light that is programmable from your phone is the fluval 3.0 They also make a model called the Aqua sky but that is made for shallow and Crypt tanks IMO. The 3.0 is very versatile/customizable, I don't believe you will be disappointed with it.

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

Thanks for all of the info.  One other question, I have an Aquion 75 gallon aquarium with a glass lid on it.  Do any of you know or have pictures as to which manufacturer of light will fit tightest to the lid and have the least light leaking past between the light and the top of the lid.

[JoeQ]

The 3.0 is pretty tight but there is still about a 1/4"~1/8" gap. I put a strip of aluminum in front of the light on account of eye issues. I'll try to get a picture of my setup later. If this is your issue as well I'd recommend forming a DYI reflector instead of trying to find ones with the least amount of "gap"

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

On 7/4/2023 at 8:25 AM, JoeQ said:

The 3.0 is pretty tight but there is still about a 1/4"~1/8" gap. I put a strip of aluminum in front of the light on account of eye issues. I'll try to get a picture of my setup later. If this is your issue as well I'd recommend forming a DYI reflector instead of trying to find ones with the least amount of "gap"

I don't know why I never thought to put a little piece of aluminum or stainless angle iron infront of it to block the gap.  I also have issues with bright lights causing me issues, to the extent that I have dimmers on all of my lights in the house for bad days.

[JoeQ]

On 7/4/2023 at 9:39 AM, Milliardo Peacecraft said:

I don't know why I never thought to put a little piece of aluminum or stainless angle iron infront of it to block the gap.  I also have issues with bright lights causing me issues, to the extent that I have dimmers on all of my lights in the house for bad days.

Interesting! Your problems wouldn't involve reflections/bright lights causing vertigo would it? 

[anewbie]

On the more expensive side i recommend the ai blade. They come in various length - if you have a standard 75 then you would want one or two 48 inch. They are a bit stronger than the fluval 3.0 and much more neutral but they aren't cheap - still cheaper than other premium lights like wrgb 2 pro and twinstar. On the lower end there are quite a few options - fluval which has a lot going for it despite the slight color cast; hygar, beamstar, finnex all make reasonable lights with various trade offs. 

Here is a picture of my 29 with fluval 3.0 and later with the blade - if you look at the substrate you can see it is a bit more neutral:

(fluval)

 

(blade)

 

 

Note that neither the fluval 3.0 or the blade are cheap and you can get adequate lighting for a lot less money....

 

(this is what the blade looks like)

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

@anewbie 

Question for you, for a 75 gallon aquarium do you think 1 blade AI light would work.  The light quality from you pics looks quite a bit better on the blade vs the fluval 3.0 and the fluvals I've seem in person do look a bit more yellow and not as vibrant as my current finnex klc.  

It looks like the blade AI has 95 degree spread for the light where as the fluval 3.0 and my finnex has 120 degree coverage, so I'm wondering if the 18" wide 75 gallon would require 2 lights or if 1 would work.... for the price of the blade AI I am really hoping one 48" long light would work.

[anewbie]

They claim it is fine for up to 2 feet but there is drop off on the sides. If low tech it should be fine as it is fairly strong unit however you could start with 1 and then add a 2nd if you find it insufficient. On my 120 (24 inch wide) i have two lights - a wrgb 2 pro and a fluval 3.0. I'm setting up a new 24 inch wide tank and i'm starting with a single blade. 18 inch is sort of that inbetween area - if you hang the light a bit above the tank it will add more to the spread - like 10 inches maybe - of course it diffuses the light some so a bit depends on what you are doing.

[Mmiller2001]

Week Aqua P series will cover anything you would put under it.

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

Thai is an absolutely amazing aquarium in the picture.

[IanB]

@Milliardo PeacecraftImo, it depends a lot on your goals. If you want to grow high-tech (high light/CO2 injected/high fert requiring plants) then I would go with 2 x the 48" aquarium coop light. If you are going with low light plants/non-planted one will do. I have 2 x Fluval 3.0 on my 75 gallon with a glass lid and they handle any plants I put in. The coop lights are at least as good and much more affordable. Had they been available when I was setting the aquarium up, I would have gone with them without hesitation.

To me, lights like the Week Aqua P (ADA knock-offs) are only needed if you are going 1. for a serious, high energy aquascape with demanding carpeting and red plants and 2. are invested in the look of your equipment, which usually means you are running a rimless tank with lily pipes and are not looking in the budget realm. @Mmiller2001that is a great scape, btw!

[Mmiller2001]

On 8/2/2023 at 2:32 PM, IanB said:

@Milliardo PeacecraftImo, it depends a lot on your goals. If you want to grow high-tech (high light/CO2 injected/high fert requiring plants) then I would go with 2 x the 48" aquarium coop light. If you are going with low light plants/non-planted one will do. I have 2 x Fluval 3.0 on my 75 gallon with a glass lid and they handle any plants I put in. The coop lights are at least as good and much more affordable. Had they been available when I was setting the aquarium up, I would have gone with them without hesitation.

To me, lights like the Week Aqua P (ADA knock-offs) are only needed if you are going 1. for a serious, high energy aquascape with demanding carpeting and red plants and 2. are invested in the look of your equipment, which usually means you are running a rimless tank with lily pipes and are not looking in the budget realm. @Mmiller2001that is a great scape, btw!

Let’s do the math.

2xCoop lights, 300.00

2xFluval 3.0, 480.00

1xWeek Aqua, 350.00

The first 2 lights don’t even come close to the color rendition and contrast the WA produces. Not to mention the WA can pump 300 par at the substrate at around 21 inches. 

Lastly, let’s take a look the at the Fluval destroyer (a direct competitor). The WA L series. 
259.00 , same spectrum as the WA P series with a bit less watts and 20mm less width.

 

Edited August 2, 2023 by Mmiller2001

[IanB]

On 8/2/2023 at 6:34 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Let’s do the math.

2xCoop lights, 300.00

2xFluval 3.0, 480.00

1xWeek Aqua, 350.00

The first 2 lights don’t even come close to the color rendition and contrast the WA produces. Not to mention the WA can pump 300 par at the substrate at around 21 inches. 

Lastly, let’s take a look the at the Fluval destroyer (a direct competitor). The WA L series. 
259.00 , same spectrum as the WA P series with a bit less watts and 20mm less width.

 

It is going to come down to preference and how you want to use them. The WA P series is going to, as you say, likely be a higher end light in terms of the PAR it can produce at the substrate. You really don’t need and 95% of people can’t handle 300 par at the substrate (see Dennis Wong here for real diminishing returns past 200 par in even very high energy setups: https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/freshwater-aquarium-plants-guide/how-to-grow-red-plants). 
 

I am in no way saying the WA lights are bad. In fact, I would take them for most of my tanks since I largely run rimless (with either Chihiros Ada knockoffs or Kessils) high energy aquascapes. The original poster doesn’t seem to be going that route with an Aquaon 75 gallon. In their case, to me, the coop lights being cheaper (even before needing a hanging kit for the WA P), more flexible (you can always move one to another setup to go low light), water resistant, and draw less power (50 w times 2 vs 150 w), backed by a proven warranty and customer service, makes them well worth considering to me. If you ran even 150 par at substrate in a low tech tank it would be an algae farm so you can’t really take advantage of all the WA P has to offer in a low tech setup. It looks like a great light, but it is clearly meant for high energy aquascapes.

 

I haven’t had a chance to look at the “Fluval killer” that you mention, so won’t speak to that.

[Mmiller2001]

I guess for me, it all comes down to everything below the light and how it looks. Color pop and high contrast with the availability to expand at a single price point.

[IanB]

On 8/2/2023 at 6:56 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

I guess for me, it all comes down to everything below the light and how it looks. Color pop and high contrast with the availability to expand at a single price point.

Not going to disagree there. For myself, I would definitely take the WA lights (and may actually buy some as they look better value than the Chihiros ADA solar knockoffs I have). Was just trying to put myself in the poster’s shoes as most folks here aren’t full on aquascapers.

[Mmiller2001]

On 8/2/2023 at 5:57 PM, IanB said:

Not going to disagree there. For myself, I would definitely take the WA lights (and may actually buy some as they look better value than the Chihiros ADA solar knockoffs I have). Was just trying to put myself in the poster’s shoes as most folks here aren’t full on aquascapers.

Yeah, unfortunately the Chihiros lights have stepped out of the correct price point. Increased popularity comes with higher prices it appears. I had 2 and really liked them. But the WA looks just a bit better. I think my old eyes like the higher Kelvin. 

[IanB]

I also really like that there is a 120 cm version at that price. With Ada and chihiros forcing you to get 2 lights to cover a 120 cm if you go for the Solar style ones, it makes the prices even tougher to swallow. 
 

I do maintain a 75 gallon fairly basic setup for my godson and the coop style lights are great there because they are definitely getting dropped in the water and I don’t have a carpet, just some basic rotalas and easy stems to soak up nutrients and lots of low maintenance epiphytes.

[Mmiller2001]

I’ll add, and probably where my passion comes from, I made the same mistakes. I bought a light for my 75, great fun light. But then plants caught my eye. I needed a stronger light, bought a fluval, I wanted higher light plants, bought a second fluval. Woops, now I want CO2 and why does my tank look yellow and not look like these beautiful tanks I’m seeing. Oh, it’s the lights not being true RGB. Bought a Chihiros and wow, okay that’s why. Now I’ve spent a fortune on lights when I should have just bought the Chihiros originally. Beginning mistakes for sure.

Edited August 3, 2023 by Mmiller2001

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 6/30/2023 at 5:36 PM, Pepere said:

I like the color rendering and intensity of the Finnex Planted Plus ALC.  I hate the automatic timer on it and instead control it with wifi plugs. I also wish it was IP68 rated…

I ordered an inline timer dimmer I am going to try with it and see how that works.  The Finnex included timer has a 3 hour ramp from setting to setting.  This is pretty stupid in my estimation.

 

The timer I bought is single channel but gives you 6 time and intensity stepswhich should allow it to either be programmed to mimic the intensity changes the sun has during the day or allow you to program a siesta period.  It also allows you to opt for a 15 minute or 30 minute rMp from setting to setting..  So light comes on dim and gradually brightens to setting over 15 or 30 minutes and also dims over same period when shutting off…. For about $12.00 it will be a great upgrade if it works like I jope it will.

I don't want to hijack this thread, but @Pepere, if you've done some kind write-up or elaboration on this, can you point me at it? I also have a Finnex Planted Plus ALC, and the timer/controller is my only complaint about it, and if you've solved that for $12, I'm very interested to learn more.

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 8/3/2023 at 3:46 PM, Pepere said:

@Rube_Goldfish   I liked the timer well enough I bought 5 more within a few days of getting the original..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WT8VK28?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

you need the included adapters. The male plug fits hard into the female socket on the Finnex.  It is not because of the metal but the plastic housing.   I forced it with no problems.  It works fine…

 

you can Program six different timesots and intensities, and choose between 15 minute ramps, 20 minute ramps, or no ramp. It is single channel only so youmput in your main color in a memory slot and have that on.  The timer then can be set to whatever percentage intensity in 1% increments.

 

Where I run 2 photo periods per day from 4:00 to 8:00 morning and night due to my schedule, I only use 2 settings in the morning and three at night.  It turns on at 4:00 AM and ramps up to 100% over 30 minutes, and at 8:00 AM it ramps to off in 30 minutes.  In the afternoon it turns on at 4:00 PM, and ramps up to 100% over 30 minutes and ramps down to 20% at 8:00 PM and then ramps off at 8:30 PM.

 

I run the Finnex at 100% red, 50% Green, 30% blue and 70% white in a memory slot.

 

It would be nicer if the Finnex 24/7 simply ramped over 30 minutes.  What this inline timer does not allow is for you to customer color percentages in each time setting..

 

That being said, with the color settings I use, you do have it starting out red, getting more orange and such as it brightens and dims like sunrise sunset, but shorter period than in real life.

 

For $12.00 though it is well worth the money.

This is great, thanks!