Trouble Getting The Balance?

[chrx]

Hello everyone!

I continue to have trouble with algae on my plants.  I have watched lots of YouTube videos on the subject and can’t seem to get it right.  I would appreciate some guidance on my light and fertilizer balance, if you don’t mind.

Current setup is a typical 55 tank:

Father Fish-style dirt/sand substrate.  Two Aquarium Co-Op medium sponge filters and a AquaClear 20.  Ph average 6.8 (7.4 out of the tap).  Parameters are great, per the test kit.  Nitrates average 40-50.

Fluval 3.0 plant light on top:

Light settings:  3-hour sunrise from 7:30-10:30am.  Daytime colors all 30%, except zero blue.  3.5-hour sunset from 5:00-8:30.  Nighttime is 3% blue, 1% pink from 8:30-11:00pm.

I put Easy root tabs in about once a month, and about three squirts of Easy Green, or H2O Plants Vital every other night.

A couple of Vallisneria, but all Java ferns and Anubias varieties beyond that.

Two decent-sized goldfish, two Yo-Yo loaches, two hillstream loaches, about six kuhli loaches and about five small Amano shrimp.

Tried mystery snails, but Yo-Yos harassed them to death.

Please see photos for what I have.  It’s been this way for months.  Not sure to add light, lower light, or what?

Any input is appreciated! 🙂

Thank you, Chris

[lefty o]

we all get there differently, but if it were me i would start with knocking another half hour off the lights, and do the easy green every 3 or 4 nights vs every other. let that go for a few weeks, then decide if another adjustment might be needed.

[Rube_Goldfish]

I second what @JettsPapa says, but I'd also suggest some faster growing plants. Vallisneria is fast-growing, yes (or can be), but floating plants (water lettuce, red root floater, frogbit) do double duty by soaking up nutrients and shading the tank below. And because they're not rooted, you can remove them afterward if you don't really want them. And of course there are all the fast growing stems that'll help, too.

Otherwise it's just manual cleaning, small tweaks, and time. Good luck!

[JoeQ]

Contrary to popular belief,  in a planted tank reducing lighting should not be your primary concern when dealing with problematic algae.  Your main concern in battling algae should be adding more soldiers to the fight.  Particularly,  lots of fast growing plants. As of now you are trying to fight a war with a few Abrams tanks. Consider investing in a large rapid response team in the form of lots of fast growing plants! More soldiers equal a easier fight.

Edited January 21, 2023 by JoeQ

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 1/21/2023 at 10:25 AM, JoeQ said:

Contrary to popular belief,  in a planted tank reducing lighting should not be your primary concern when dealing with problematic algae.  Your main concern in battling algae should be adding more soldiers to the fight.  Particularly,  lots of fast growing plants. As of now you are trying to fight a war with a few Abrams tanks. Consider investing in a large rapid response team in the form of lots of fast growing plants! More soldiers equal a easier fight.

Yeah, that's kind of what I was trying to get at with floating plants, but you phrased it better than me. Anyway, yes: more and faster growing plants. You can always take them out later, after they've helped the epiphytes along, if you don't really like them.

[JoeQ]

On 1/21/2023 at 11:21 AM, Rube_Goldfish said:

Yeah, that's kind of what I was trying to get at with floating plants, but you phrased it better than me

I knew where you were trying to get at, I just wanted to clarify the floating part so it wasn't confused with light reduction.  More fast growing plants in general is the key, I just prefer it be stems since their daily opening and closing schedule is a good indicator of light strength.

[knee]

You have an excess of nutrients that the plants aren’t using fast enough. I agree with the previous comments about getting floaters and fast growing plants. Anacharis, guppy grass, pearlweed, water sprite and water wisteria are some fast growing plants that adjust quickly to the tank they’re in. 
 

I’d also reduce or would stop adding ferts while trying to get the algae problem under control. 

[chrx]

Thank you all for your input.  I grow duckweed in a bin out back, to feed my goldfish, because they like to eat plants.  That is how I ended up with a  tank full of Java ferns and Anubias - they were recommended (YouTube [Cory, etc.]) as good for my situation, because goldfish can’t eat them.  All this said, what fast-and/or-floating plants would you all recommend that may not be consumed in six hours? 🙂

[JoeQ]

On 1/21/2023 at 10:57 PM, chrx said:

Thank you all for your input.  I grow duckweed in a bin out back, to feed my goldfish, because they like to eat plants.  That is how I ended up with a  tank full of Java ferns and Anubias - they were recommended (YouTube [Cory, etc.]) as good for my situation, because goldfish can’t eat them.  All this said, what fast-and/or-floating plants would you all recommend that may not be consumed in six hours? 🙂

Tough spot! Have you tried pathos or lucky bamboo with its roots only in the water? Or putting the duckweed in a floating protector that the glutinous goldfish can’t get into?

[Wes L.]

I think your nitrates are clearly the issue. Black Bear Algae loves nitrates. 40 to 50 is high, and I know for a fact because I am currently walking that same walk. I also have a 55 gallon that all of a sudden after 4 years has had an algae bloom of BBA. After scrambling to figure out the cause (my nitrate levels kept spiking to 40-50 overnight), I literally started doing 60% water changes every other day until I could identify the source of the nitrate spikes. I have identified the source of my issue and corrected it, but even the week of water changes to lower the nitrates was already making a noticeable difference in the algae. Of course, the other way to eradicate the excess nutrients in the water is more plants like everyone was suggesting above. Plus, I think you are overdosing your fertilizer. Algae issues are from excess nutrients of all sources, so I would definitely cut back a bit.

[chrx]

JoeQ: I have had a Pathos growing in one corner of the tank since last summer and its root system is doing well.
 

Wes L.: If I let the tank go for a few weeks, the nitrates will get down to 10-20 naturally, at this point.  I have actually been bumping them back up to 40-50 with the liquid fertilizer.

I will cut-back on the light duration a bit and stop adding the ferts, as suggested and see how that goes for a few weeks.  Based on the combination of input you all have offered, that seems like a reasonable first step.  I’ll let you all know.  Thank you!