Mmiller2001

That’s pretty high for some plants. At least in relation to the tanks I follow. Softer water makes plant growth a bit easier and will open up a path to more difficult plants by making them easier. If that makes sense.

I keep mine at 8, but 10 would be fine. I’d try to lower that calcium though.

Couldn’t hurt to try it

I’m not sure of how good they are but could be used for a range.

New growth should look better as it comes in. A month or 2 to see the overall picture.

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20 to 25ppm

I don't think so, all I've read and personal experience was Val's taking a hit. They did recover though.

More maintenance and eleminating.

Yes, it causes excess organics and some break down (creating ammonia) feeding instability and opportunist algae.

Looks like Euro bracing and is built into the tank. There are custom top companies. Just YouTube them and check on pricing.

If you need to do a whole tank treatment, obviously, there’ are better option, but I would do Glut over H2O2. It will kill Val type plants but it’s effective against BBA. This is only a temporary fix if you are unwilling to fix what is causing it in the first place.

That’s it, I only found it on Etsy myself long ago.

For plants, I recommend 0 to 1dKH, depends on live stock though. That said, I keep my Rainbows 0 to .6 and pH is running about 5.3 with the .6dKH.

GH and KH look real good and I would definitely add more plants. I will make this recommendation, Hygrophila Polysperma.

Yes, return the tank to your target totals each water change.

.3ppm per week divided by how many days you choose to dose.

2 or 3 times a week is fine and always right after a water change. So .1 3xweek or .15 2xweek

That’s probably a good idea as EG has other micros too. Flourish iron would be my choice over comprehensive so you aren’t over dosing the others. Unfortunately, there’s no great micro mix except BurrAqua and he may not be able to ship to Canada and would require NPK dosed individually. If you are interested, here’s my per dose totals on micros, I dose this 3 times a week. Fe DTPA - .12 ppm Fe gluc - .03 ppm Mn - .025 ppm B - .023 ppm Zn - .02 ppm Cu - .0021 ppm Mo - .001 ppm Ni - .00011 ppm

That's fine for the extra iron, try targeting .3ppm Fe weekly, then water change. May have to go lower if you are not doing 50% changes. When you have good healthy new growth, then remove the algae filled lower sections. If you have good leaves now, go ahead and remove the old ones.

Only 16 inches, I would put an air stone in your tap water bucket and let it roll a few hours then change water. A spare pump will work too. Another trick, and one that I use, is I dose my water change water to the totals I want then change water. This way (front loading) keeps the tank always at my target numbers no matter how little or how much water I change. I do dose micros separately though, but that's not possible if using an all in one fertilizer. 1st goals, dose the extra and keep at it that you have started doing. Do good size water changes and keep the substrate free of any mulm and such. Clean filter once a month and that should be just a gentle sponge squeeze in dechlorinated water. Do this for a few months and see what happens, only watch new growth and make sure it stays free of algae. If there's no improvements, then other changes should be made. 90% of problems is underdosing and not keeping the tank clean and fresh.

Patience, and yes...let the water sit out for a while before using it or do more frequent smaller water changes. Keep the tank very clean and dose after a water change to get levels back to what they need to be. The whole "heavy root feeders" is nonsense and root tabs are not needed. An aqua soil will give you better results than a root tab will but I only use inert substrates and my plants grow just fine without tabs. Look at my Quadricostatus on the left, no tabs there I assure you.

I do and I haven’t found a reason to use them in either scenario.

I would go Chihiros, more adjustability.

Ideally you want one near to or full length but you could raise it higher to spread the light. And if you working with lower light plants, I see no issues if it was shorter.