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gjcarew

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Posts posted by gjcarew

  1. On 3/3/2022 at 10:06 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:

    Hi @Andy Aqt

    @Mmiller2001is correct that you seem to be under-dosing your Easy Green, for medium light tanks 1 pump per 10 gallons twice a week is the recommended dose.  Also, your green plants are also suffering, notice how the older leaves are turning brown.  I also see "cupping" of the leaves of your Alternanthera reineckii.  Alternanthera reineckii is not the easiest plant to grow well to begin with but the older leaves on your green plants shouldn't look that bad with the 'bronzing' (see arrow).  Since both older seem to be suffering that would indicate one or more of the mobile nutrients is unavailable.  That would include all of the macro-nutrients as well as magnesium and some of the micro-nutrients.  I would start by dosing at least the recommended amount (6 pumps 2X per week) and you may need to go higher than that with high light and CO2.

    Do you have any water parameter information?  pH, dKH. dGH; nitrates (ppm)

    Are you doing weekly water changes to replenish the nutrients the plants are utilizing from your water?

    I too run CO2 on a split period, 2 hours in the AM and 2.5 hours in the evening but I run my CO2 24 hours a day.  What light are you running on that 65 gallon?  -Roy
    1108710201_CAREcroppedadjarrowslg.jpg.767f67347e086ec676ec58d1917b803f.jpg

    The plant on the left looks like ludwigia palustris (or maybe ludwigia repens), which under most conditions is a deep red plant. My guess is the brownish leaves that @Seattle_Aquarist pointed out were grown under higher light, maybe at the store, and you're seeing green tops due to pretty severe lack of light. That could also lead to all the lower leaves on the scarlet temple dying back.

    • Like 1
  2. Local fish stores (LFS) are a great resource. Petco has started selling packs of seiryu stone and dragon stone, as well as spiderwood and mopani wood. They also sell Fluval Stratum which is a pretty good aquasoil if you want soft water for plants.

    There is a store online called Aqua Rocks Colorado that sells aquascaping supplies. It's inefficient to buy online since aquascaping supplies are so heavy and unwieldy that shipping costs an arm and a leg. Much better to check out your local fish stores. 

    If you're looking for a filter for aquascaping, you probably want either a hang-on-back (HOB) or a canister filter since they don't take up room on the floor of the aquarium. Green Aqua primarily uses canister filters, but HOB's are cheaper and easier to use.

    • Like 1
  3. The rare midweek update: I just bought a 10 lb CO2 tank and a flow meter. This tank is big enough, and I push CO2 hard enough, that a bubble counter doesn't do me much good. The other advantage is I will be able to give injection rates in terms of cubic centimeters per minute per gallon, which is an actual rate rather than the ambiguous unit of "bubbles per second."

    • Like 1
    • Love 1
  4. I'm moving my journal over from another forum. I've made intros here before, this is my most recent project. 

    20220227_210916.jpg.cc722c7609a782ac41b5c7c73bad6705.jpg

    I managed to win the AGA Dutch-style aquascape competition last year. I am hoping it wasn't a fluke, so I'm going to try again this year.

    In its current format, this tank is not Dutch-style. But you must learn how to grow before you can garden, and I am still learning how to grow. This tank uses 6 T5HO lights and inert gravel, both of which are new to me. I need to get a handle on what plants do well in these conditions before I start massaging this to actually look like a Dutch-style aquarium.

    What other projects? I also dabble with ponds, wabi kusa, and living walls. I am interested in trying my hand at a really great paludarium and biotope someday, but for the time being I don't have the bandwidth. Most aquarium projects are on hold right now as I bought a house last fall that has needed pretty constant repair. 

    A few warnings: I'm not a great writer. I have given up on trying to be super scientific and precise, so if you ask me a specific question my answer may be hand-wavey. Try to keep in mind that the way I do things is only one of a whole spectrum of ways to keep successful aquaria. I am no an expert, just a guy semi-obsessed with one of the nichest hobbies imaginable.

    Current dosing: 

    15 ppm Ca, 12.2 g  CaSO4,2H2O
    7.5 ppm Mg, 14.4 g MgSO4,7H2O

     

    7.2 ppm NO3/ 3.33 g

    2.8 ppm PO4/ 1.5 g

    15.2 ppm K2SO4/ 5.19 g

    • Like 13
  5. I won't pretend to have expertise on mattenfilters but I clean the sponges on my pre-filters and and in my HOB's fairly regularly and they still seem to end up super dirty. I would bet it would be worthwhile to take it out and give it a squeeze at least.

    I love canister filters. They are great for dispersing CO2, and they don't take up any space on the floor of a tank. Sure, I wouldn't want them in a fish room, but for just one or two tanks they are great.

  6. This should be your Dutch tank! The whole left three-quarters of the tank is 90% there. I love the combination of the hygrophila serpyllum,  hygrophila angustigolia and rotala wallichii. That rotala macrandra "mini" bush is also amazing.

    • Like 1
  7. Four weeks since the last update and things are going.... OK. You can see some of the aquatic moss is green and appears to have grown at least slightly. The sphagnum mix, despite the new watering regime, does not appear to have sprouted.20220225_110238.jpg.561fe30262a56844f23da025572e138f.jpg

    There is some moss growth on the wood, but I don't know if that is new growth or just the existing aquatic moss growing upwards.

    20220225_110456.jpg.1a4287b2b741edb678232c9759de34b2.jpg

    The raphidophora hayi has some new growth points, but growth so far is still fairly small and weak.

    20220225_110304.jpg.7dbb64bd4363645386b03034d2a1c03f.jpg

    One of the frustrating things is that on the same day I did this moss, I threw some dried  long fiber sphagnum and the remaining dusk moss mix into a deli container, and it is doing great.

    20220225_110035.jpg.1faefdb73c32ea93babcf34c73caa04e.jpg

    This tells me either I need the light to be shining more directly on the wall (rather than at an oblique angle) or that I just need humidity, in which case this setup just isn't gonna happen.

    • Like 3
  8. On 2/17/2022 at 12:06 PM, anewbie said:

    I love the look of peace river but for fishes like apisto and geo that like to poke in the substrate for food it is not good for their gills (a bit too coarse). I need something like that but much finer 😞

    One substrate that I really liked but took a bit more work was the regular 60 lb Sakrete medium-grade sand. I sifted it through a regular kitchen strainer to get rid of all the dust-like particles and what came out was a coarse, greyish, natural looking sand. It seems like it would be small enough for geophagus, and the plants I planted in there did well. It's what I used in the tank below, but it got kinda mixed with the aquasoil I used in the background hence the larger particles.

    IMG_20190718_211726.jpg.6515512a96c7c5bd2013415070cdaed5.jpg

    • Like 5
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  9. On 2/4/2022 at 3:49 PM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:

    Sorry @Odd Duck, that's awful. I wish you a speedy recovery. On this end of taking care of COVID patients it is always frustrating, and the patients are always feeling so much worse either mentally or physically it is a hard balance as they are so connected. Bummer. 

    @gjcarewI think the open nature of this is difficult and without a constant source of humidity it could be difficult. Perhaps a humidifier like setup like @Odd Duckis suggesting could be part of the magic sauce. 

    Could you need to wrap the foam in something to get a better constant moisture? Is that epiweb stuff expensive?

     

    I got a lot of recommendations to use hygrolon, which is a wicking material. At this point the milled sphagnum is constantly wet so hopefully that will work in place of hygolon/epiweb. I was hoping to get away with using cheap materials (the Aquarium Co-op sponge filter mat). I'm gonna give it another month or so to see if the new moss slurry grows, if it doesn't start growing by then I might just need to tear the whole wall down and come up with another plan.

    @Odd Duck my sympathies on Covid, most of my family got it and despite being "mild" it still sounds horrible.

  10. @Mmiller2001 and @Guppysnail thank you for the suggestions, an I think that would be a better way to go. Or keeping this in a terrarium. One of my goals though was to keep it minimalistic and completely open. I wanted to be able to touch the moss on the wall. As a result I don't really have a method for spraying/ humidifying built in. If the moss just doesn't grow, I will have to figure out a way to work in a sprayer!

    @Torrey I will have to collect some moss next time I'm in the woods and see if this setup will work for it

  11. Some feedback I got is not to let the moss get saturated, unless it is aquatic moss. So I cut up some Christmas moss, mixed it with a bunch of the Dusk Moss Mix (terrarium moss) and applied it. Good news, a day later and it's still almost fully damp! I'm hoping this means things are on the right track. Unfortunately it might still be another month before I see growth, since I essentially just did another hard reset on this project.

    20220203_103003.jpg

    • Like 2
  12. Pretty much how I feel about this project right now...

    spacer.png

     

    It's been 5 weeks with no growth. I went and asked a question in a terrarium group, but the gamut of answers I received made it somewhat unhelpful. I suspect that rehydrating then dehydrating the mix did some harm to it.  I suppose as well that the moss mix MIGHT come back, and I just need to wait a while with the new, better spread drip wall.

    That said, it's a bit too patchy. There are some sections that are isolated from the dripping because coverage with the chopped sphagnum is not good enough. I'm going to reapply more moss mix and see what happens. I'm also making a backup by just putting some long fiber sphagnum in a bunch of light. I've gotten it to reanimate in the past by doing this, so I'm pretty sure it will work. 

    • Sad 1
  13. On 1/18/2022 at 5:08 PM, Patrick_G said:

    I just got caught up with this thread. I’ve been wanting to do something like this after being inspired by Steve Waldron’s drip wall at Zen. I bet he’s have some advice. 
     

    Is that a UNS 60S tank? 
     

    Yeah, it's a UNS 60s. I've been playing with living walls for a few years now. I think Steve gave up on his for the most part now and just lets the ficus pumila grow wild. I asked him about it and he said that it just doesn't work that well-- the nutrient demands of aquatic plants and the nutrient demands to grow terrestrial plants hydroponically are just too dissimilar. 

    I've never done a constantly wet drip wall. I hope it works out in the end but it's a pretty unique setup so I just don't know.

    • Like 2
  14. On the other side of the spectrum I bought a $50 regulator, inline diffuser, and CO2 canister from some random Chinese brand off Amazon and it has been running fine for the past three years. Overall cost was $150 and it does the job as well as any other system.

    I don't recommend DIY, for many of the reasons Vanish mentioned above. But if you want to go that route, Christel Kasselmann has a decades-old method that is sound. 

    • Like 1
  15. On 1/22/2022 at 9:57 AM, Mmiller2001 said:

    Photo update:

    Wallichii improving, Hygrophila is actually doing something now, though deformed and the Cyperus Helferi has popped new growth. I was worried it didn't make the trip.

    Today I will twirl some algae spaghetti, move the lily right a bit and trim the street.

     

     

     

    PXL_20220122_174554183~3.jpg

    @gjcarew Contrast okay here?

    I blurred this photo to try and focus on colors.

    mmiller12422blurred.jpg.06ae677938874117bd0068c929374a12.jpg

    The wallichii and the limnophila aromatica are pretty similar right now, as are the the syngonanthus and the hygrophila siamensis. The first two will probably start to differentiate in color as you add more light. The syngonanthus you may want to move, potentially into the empty area to the right of your lily? Depends on if the hygrophila siamensis turns a lighter green as it grows, which it does in my tank. I think the lily looks great where it is.

    397778000_mmiller12422grayscale.jpg.89dfc70f2feae06289b6d8514a53f5ee.jpg

    The textural contrast is great. The myriophyllum guyana kinda throws things off but the otherwise you can very clearly identify the different plants groups by texture alone, and no two groups anywhere in the tank look particularly similar.

    • Like 5
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