anewbie
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Posts posted by anewbie
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On 2/11/2023 at 7:42 PM, tolstoy21 said:
The ones at Red Fish Blue Fish are domestic raised, imported from Europe.
I
So... let me ask you - if you could buy a pair from wetspot for $35 or a pair form red fish blue fish for $145 which would you pick and why ?
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On 2/11/2023 at 11:19 AM, Beardedbillygoat1975 said:
@tolstoy21i remember when Red Fish Blue Fish showed these a couple years back when he used to do his stream. Wow that coloration is incredible. Well done with the pic too!
They are more common these days - I think the typical price for a tank raised pair is around $30-$40 (wetspot for example sell them for $35 a pair when they have them in stock). However wild specimen are much more expensive - depending on some factors such as catch location.
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It is a more delicate fish so I if you RAOK (and i would enter); you should try to target more experience fish keepers rather than purely random...
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I use plain vinegar - it is fish safe and works well enough.
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This is my pleco that I appreciate (old picture); he's been hiding more recent but i see him now and then:
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The light is pretty darn weak - i'd get something a bit stronger - closer to 40 watts - anyway as for plants - i have crypts in my front - these are nurii rosen:
If the light is strong the leaves will stay near the bottom. I have a wenditti on the other side (I think it is wenditti) that is around 14 inches high and a pink jacobi that is a bit taller.
another nice crypt is tiger spiralis (the red leaves you see above).
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I don't know anything about them but if they don't keep the bottom flat the tank can break - you can put a board under them i guess but it still needs to stay relatively flat.
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To be honest I only see mine about once every 6 months so it is kind of hard to appreciate him. Then again I only see my female nijjensi about once every 3 months so i can hardly like her much better but at least I know what she is up to...
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On 2/9/2023 at 2:00 PM, jwcarlson said:
TDS is 60.
I didn't get a hardness test last night. I'm curious how much GH vs KH is in that TDS, I guess. But that said... is 60 TDS a number you can convert to degrees somehow? Meaning... what's the maximum dKH that could be inside 60 TDS? Seems like a foolish question because I can just get the answer about my hardness without too much fanfare. 😄
When eggs are in hard water do they change in appearance somehow? The ones she was kicking out where nice and pink, liquidy... I popped two of them when I cleaned out the extra baby brine. Won't be feeding quite so heavy for the next spawn so I don't have to worry about it. Maybe that irked her and she ate everything.
I wouldn't feed bbs until the frys are free swimming. I don' tthink you can convert tds back into gh - if you ph is low your kh will be low. I think tds 60 is fine - but new parents take a few trys to get it right.
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I'm not doing anything useful today - my worthless annoying crypt flowered again. To put scale on those plants - i have a fish that is 1 inch high and 2 1/2 inches long hide 100% under the leaves - little sneaker - never know if she is there waiting to bite me or not.
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On 2/8/2023 at 5:57 PM, jwcarlson said:
Came home to her rubbing up on the male and tail whapping him. She didn't go back to cave for like 20 minutes so I pulled it out. Empty.
Maybe new momma learning? I guess when I saw her gling vertical she was chowing down on eggs or wigglers. Going to do hardness check tonight just so I know exactly where I am at.
TDS is a useful number...
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On 2/8/2023 at 9:58 AM, Josh333 said:
Thanks for the info. I have breeded cacatuoides before with none of those issues never had to separate them even with babies
You got lucky. A lot depends on how the tank is scaped and size. Males don't help with taking care of frys and they generally don't eat frys - but they guard the territory and the female will tend to snap at him - as to how much damage she does depends on individual fishes. Where things get messy is when the female is not ready to breed - he will generally drive her out of his territory till she is ready and the aggression level can be quite high. It really is a your mileage vary but it also depends on tank size and layout.
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On 2/8/2023 at 2:23 AM, Scapexghost said:
Ooh thats rough. I guess thats just the natural order. Im sure in nature a lot of kribs get killed trying to find a suitor. I guess its worth risking 1 or 2 kribs for the goal of creating dozens of kribs.
Will adding a third krib make things better or worse?
In the wild they are not constrained by a small glass cage and one can easily escape the other. Adding another female will make things much worse as one will likely die unless your aquarium is large with lots of hiding places. Adding another male - she will chase both off until she picks one and then both of them will gang up on the other male.....
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It is all about tank size and layout. In a 40 with lots of hiding places you shouldn't have much concern about actual death - in a 10 - well....
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For potential tank mates; more clown loaches - they should be kept in a pack of at least 6 - more the better. They really do need to be a in a group. Other tank mates - pretty much anything that likes warm soft water - angelfishes, cardinals, severum, .... the limit is on your tank size.
They can get fairly large and they can live in excess of 30 years (easily).
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If you want a chance they will pair then yes you have to wait - and yes they can kill each other.
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The female picks the male and if the female is larger the chance she will accept him as a mate is much lower. Also being harem breeders they will pick on each other when they are not breeding regardless so it is important to have them in a large enough aquarium with ample hard scape where they can hide from each other.
Of course if they are juvi they will not be breeding; hostilities will likely be lower but still you should have them in a large enough aquarium with proper scaping so they can hide from each other.
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*IF* they pair it can take several weeks..... and yes there can be a lot of fighting until then. Of course there is no guarantee they will pair.
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On 2/7/2023 at 10:56 AM, jwcarlson said:
I'm wondering if she'll move wigglers around and maybe I'll get a glimpse. I can see most of the floor of the cave, though it is dark.
Wishful thinking probably. I think it can take almost another week for them to go free swimming. Her behavior changed a bit when she gave up on the last batch, though, so I can probably make a fair guess as to what's going on if no more eggs (or not many more) end up on the sand and she continues to keep the male at a distance. Fun to learn, for sure.
There is a good chance she will move the wrigglers once they hatch.... at least mine did.
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Hum. Almost time to feed the fishes.... almost....
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On 2/6/2023 at 3:08 PM, jwcarlson said:
I'm far from experienced, but my hongsloi seem to like flake. I crumble it up relatively small and stir it into the water so it sinks. They also seem to eat quite a few "pest snail" eggs in tanks they're available for them in. And if I crush a snail they seem to like eating that as well. But baby brine shrimp seems to be their favorite. They do seem to kind of be foraging all day instead of actively waiting for food. They did eat some sinking pellets for me initially, but the last few times I have put some in they seem untouched so I vacuumed them out. Might try with a smaller pellet or break them up as I put them in.
@anewbie you've fed vinegar eels to adult apistos? I've got a culture and have been waiting for fry to feed that. They're so stinking tiny I wonder how interested they'd be.
I have not yet messed with vinegar eels but my adult apisto go wild for bbs when i put it in for frys. After i move and have a basement i'll setup a culture for vinegar eels right now in the condo i don't want to mess with it.
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The thing I love about live plants is my landscape is constantly changing - sometime they go up and sometime they go down.... and sometime they go up and sometime they go down...
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I'd just keep on - she will probably need a few practice runs to get it right anyways. Nice looking angels but raising frys can be a full time task as you well know given how frequently they breed. In my group when they bred - the hostilities wasn't too bad but some of the other angels would sneak in now and then and grab a few eggs or frys... but it really depends on specific fishes - as sometime they can be hyper aggressive and it can be more problematic.
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On 2/5/2023 at 5:12 PM, PineSong said:
Yes, I originally bought them for the pond and when fall came I sold or rehomed the adults and put the fry in my 29. As fry matured into males, I kept four to see which I might like to keep as breeders, but I put them in the 20g to make sure they weren't breeding yet. None of them are full sized. I do hope to keep two of them even when they are full sized, but if they can't be together even in the 29, one of them will have to go. No room for a larger tank 😞
Should have bought a house with longer walls!
Yea long walls are great - when i move my long wall will get a 10ft aquarium. Wish it was longer 😉
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On 2/5/2023 at 2:49 PM, PineSong said:
That's what I am afraid of. The little devil has been out of the 20 for several hours and the whole tank is behaving differently; it's like I destabilized the pecking order not only of the swordtail males but the male platies--the most mature/dominant male platy also started chasing other males around.
I have two male swords that I would like to keep and use as breeders in my pond this summer, so I guess one of them will have to stay in "time out" until it's time for the 110 gallon pond.
In all honesty a 20 is pretty small for sword tails much less sword tails + platy. I originally had my swordtails in a 40B but they got moved to a 29 when i moved and left the 40B behind - well not strictly true - i put them in the 120 for a while but then moved them to the 29.... I think when i moved i'll put the 40 I have now in the basement and put the swordtails there with the guppies. All the other aquariums will be going soft so they will just have to make due there 😉
Ordered some gold laser cories from aqua huna. I just have a couple questions.
in General Discussion
Posted
They do qt their fishes; and i've not had any issues with diseases per sey but their stock does seem to be not the healthiest. I find them optimal for routine things like tetra/rasbora but for more 'premium' fishes such as cichild and clown loaches i go with wetspot. I've had some serious issues with some fishes just not being healthy - not actual identifiable diseases but something is just off. As a simple example i purchased 4 clown loaches - 2 from wetspot and to from aquahuana. A year later none of the 4 died but one of the ones from aquahuana just refuses to grow and it has some red around the gills - maybe poisoning? It behaves lively enough and schools with the other 10 - it just doesn't want to grow. Same thing with their yoyo - one of them just refuses to grow.