eddie462

There’s another lfs in my area that has furan-2, so I’ll get some tomorrow morning. Thank you for the help

I don’t have any. I have some extra pieces of spider wood I could boil, and a bag of Oak Leaves from Josh’s Frogs. Could I use that?

My lfs didn’t have any Furan-2, so I only bought the Kanaplex. I did a 50% water change on the 5.5g, and added in one dose of Kanaplex. I didn’t add any Kanaplex to the 10g, as I have fry in it and I’ve read that meds can kill fry. I did a 30% water change and added in another tablespoon of salt, to see if that helps first. This picture of the rhads is the best I could get of them. Their bottom lips are white and have a white perpendicular line beneath them in a “T” shape. The water temp is actually 81 F in that tank. I had one sponge filter in there initially when I added the fish. The next day, two of rhads died and there was 0.5 ppm ammonia. I did a 50% and then added in the second established sponge filter(the first filter is established as well). Should I take one of those sponge filters out?

Is the white growth on the Melanotaenia sahulensis columnaris or ich? I noticed growth with them first on Friday. That fish has the most growth, and the other six have this growth at various levels. An employee at my lfs said it was fungus, and to treat it with pimafix. I’ve been using that for 5 days and I haven’t seen any changes. I was going to continue the pimafix for 2 more days and then do a water change and treat with salt. These fish are in a 5.5g aquarium. The second picture is of a Rhadinocentrus Ornatus with white lips in a separate 10g quarantine tank. There’s 9 others that have white on their lips like that. I noticed the growth on the rhads yesterday. I put in 3 tablespoons of salt, and their lips haven’t changed. I put in a uv sterilizer into this aquarium Saturday to try and preempt an outbreak in this tank The last two pictures are of the aquariums. They’re unheated, the temperatures are 71-75 F, have 7.0 ph and 50 general hardness and 40 carbonate hardness. The 10g has a reticulated hillstream loach, a baby peppermint bristlenose pleco (L181), and adult & young least killifish.

I watched Cory’s video “How to Speed Up Your Aquarium Water Change” and the Cobalt MJ1200 isn’t available anymore. What is the best alternative? I was cheap and bought this pump, but it sucks. That dial on top of that small tube on the left side of the pump in this picture wasn’t closing off to have water flow out of a connected tube. The tube to connect a hose to on this pump has a 5/8” diameter, and I used a 7/8” tube to fit it.

I should have just used rubbing alcohol since it gases off

Ok thank you. I won’t put them into my aquarium.

I sprayed Goo Gone adhesive remover onto two terracotta pots to remove the labels. When I took the labels off, I felt the spray still on the pots. I washed the sprayed areas off and I didn’t feel it anymore. Could some of the spray be absorbed into the clay? I know that there are clay based aquarium substrates that absorb fertilizer. So is the same process possible in pots with other chemicals?

@GameCzar I know it won't kill them, but that's the general rule for most animals to keep the nitrates at or below 20 ppm.

Hi everyone, I have both of the testing products in the title. The liquid test kit reads my two planted tanks at 0 ppm ammonia & nitrite, but 20 ppm nitrate. My API test strips read 0 ppm on all three. I bought JNW brand test strips(I didn't want to order just one thing of Co-op test strips), and they also read 0 ppm for all three nitrogen compounds. What should I believe? My fish don't act ill from nitrate poisoning. These are my tanks by the way. A 75 gallon paludarium with around 30 gallons of water, and a 29 gallon aquarium.