eddie462

I hatch Aquarium Co-op brand bbs eggs in the Ziss hatchery with API aquarium salt, and a Co-op usb air pump for air. I use tapwater that has chlorine in it, because in a video with Dean he said that the chlorine helps break down the shells. My house temperature with central A/C is set to 75 degrees F but in winter it gets lower. Normally when my house is at 75 F the bbs hatch in 24 hours. It is still winter so my house temperature has been going down during the night. I decided to add a small heat lamp with a 25 W bulb to speed up the hatch rate. I remember hearing this tip from Cory. The first picture is the bbs after 24 hours with the heat lamp on. As you can see there aren’t a lot of shrimp hatched. The second picture was taken 24 hours after the first and I turned off the heat lamp. There are many more bbs hatched in that picture. I tried to use a heat lamp before when my house temperature wasn’t fluctuating and I had the same low hatch rate result. Is there something that I am doing wrong? I have the heat lamp bulb about three inches away from the side of the hatchery. I always use 1/2 a tablespoon of salt with 1 liter of water.

I'm not concerned with it collapsing, I would like an estimate on how much weight a vertical 2x4 at a given length can support. I assumed that this information would be easy to find but Google search results suck. My house is a single floor and it's on a concrete foundation so I am not concerned with that.

Thanks. I have watched videos and they all say that a 2x4 can support large amounts of weight but not how much a board can hold depending on its length. Thank you for your help. I updated the title as I forgot to mention the important part about this aquarium being a 40g breeder and that I used white pine wood. I live in Florida so it's probably Eastern pine. People at my local club asked me if I knew how much weight the wood could support. I said that I didn't know and some of people snickered like a didn't know what I was doing. I don't care what these guys think of me but I should still know this information. I wanted to be safe with the extra 25.25" boards as this was my first stand I have built and my hardwood floor isn't waterproof.

I’m trying to find out the exact amount of weight 2x4’s can support but I cannot find out how much one can support at a given length. Here is a picture of my aquarium stand made out of 2x4s. The 4 inside vertical boards are 32” long. The other 4 vertical boards are 25.25” long. The 4 front and back horizontal boards are 36.25” long and the 4 boards on the sides are 15” long.

Thank you

Thank you. My gut feeling on this was to not risk it, but I wanted to see what others would say. Thank you. I already watch his videos and I made a paludarium so I guess I’ll make another one.

I have this rimmed 5.5g TopFin aquarium and I noticed this small crack in the top corner. The crack is only on the exterior of the glass. The interior is smooth. The tank has been empty for a while and has been kept indoors. Is the tank safe to completely fill or fill below the start of the crack?

Thank you all for the replies. I added in too much hydrogen peroxide. I think I added in about 100 ml of h202, which was over 3ml per gallon. I knew before hand that h202 breaks down into o2 and water, so I didn’t think there was a maximum dosing amount. It turns out I was wrong. I lost 2 guppies, 1 nerite snail and one of my penguin tetras isn’t swimming correctly so idk if I can help that fish. I’m missing one guppy and my bn pleco. I have a 3D background so the pleco may be behind it but I can’t see all of the area behind the background. I feel terrible about these deaths, but now I know to be more aware of h202 dosing amounts. Thank you @KittenFishMom I’m glad that I did try to save them instead of just letting them die.

I should add that I’m in eastern standard time and it’s 8:10pm right now. The light is still on and it normally turns to sunset at 7:00 and off at 8:00. I’m hoping that her lethargic behavior is just from her being tired. She has occasionally had a short burst of energy. If I put my fingers by her she will slowly swim away from them, but I don’t want to keep doing that and stressing her.

I just did a 50% water change and while the tank was half full I was squirting in h202 to kill algae. after the water change the temperature rose to about 78 F when it was at 75 F. I added about 3 ml of Seachem Prime. My reticulated hillstream loach died. It was swimming and spinning. I moved it to a nearby 10g that was about the same temperature from a 50% water change without dosing h202. It is sitting on the substrate and not moving so I think it died. My angelfish and 3 guppies are at the water’s surface gasping for air. My Ornate Rainbowfish and penguin tetras have been fine and not gasping. I added in that never clog air stone in the right powered by a topfin rated for 10g. I did another 50% and I did not add in anymore prime as I know that uses up oxygen. The water coming out of the tap this time was noticeably cooler. My water has 1.3 ml of chlorine per gallon. My guppies are at still at the water’s surface while my angelfish will go up to the surface once about a minute. After she goes up, she swims back down with her head pointed up and she’s leaning slightly to the right. is there anything else I should do besides keep monitoring them?

I watched this video from Aquapros, In the description there’s a link to this pond pump with battery and a solar panel. My other idea was to buy the solar panel in this picture and attach a usb nano air pump to it. I rewatched this video and Mike said that the pump being off at night isn’t an issue for planted ponds like what I want to set up. I would like to save money by using a solar panel instead of hooking it up to my electricity.

Here are the specifications: Capacity: 30000mAh USB Output: 5V/2.1A Input: 5V/2A Charging Time: 14 hours I would like to use this to run a co-op small sponge filter with a usb nano air pump on a pond. I would like to breed Pseudomugil gertrudae in this pond with which be a barrel planter that is in the second picture. I think the volume is 15 gallons. I was going to purchase a solar panel without a battery, but I don’t know if the BB would survive on the filter at night without aeration. I know that BB grows on all available surfaces, but I don’t know if they will survive with flow at night. Any help would be appreciated.

How do I know that a double dose of Liquid co2 would be safe for my fish. Google searches say to not overdose seachem excel.

Thank you for the help. I will try all of this. Thank you for the help, I will do this if I cannot dial the tank in first.

Good evening everyone, I have this 40g breeder that I completed on October 29th. I am having algae problems, detritus and other particles collecting on surfaces, and the hang on back filter causing plants to always lean over. The first picture is of my aquarium. It's cloudy as I cleaned the hob filter. The second picture is an example of the detritus or whatever that is building up on plants, rocks and the substrate. The third picture is of the stem plants and Vallisneria leaning over from the hob filter. I installed a co2 regulator with a timer that injects co2 when the light is on. I had the light on for nine hours a day, but I just lowered in to eight hours. The light is a Fluval Plant 3.0 that is at 80% brightness for each color. I dose the recommended amount of NilocG Thive S which is one pump per five gallons. The filtration is one Aquarium Co-op small sponge filter and a Seachem Tidal 55. This is a Walstad aquarium, where I have Miracle grow potting mix capped with pea pebbles and Eco Complete planted substrate without soil underneath. I have city water. The water parameters out of my faucet are 7.4 ph, 2-3 KH and 4-5 GH. I set up this aquarium with soil because my water seems to have very little nutrients dissolved. Stem plants that I had in my paludarium always had nutrient deficiencies. Stem plants in another walstad tank that I set up did not have any nutrient deficiencies for the 4 months that the aquarium was running and I didn't have any fish stocked in it nor did I add fertilizer. Most of the plants came from previous aquariums, and the bba on the rhizome plants is spreading quickly. The also a lot of brown diatom algae on the rocks and some green spot algae on the driftwood. Some of the Bucephalandra leaves have holes in them which I suspect are nutrient deficiencies. Do I need to add calcium to this aquarium. I understand that I need to find a balance with this tank to fix the algae issues, but I don't know if I should increase the liquid fertilizer doses at this point. Do I need to add Seachem Equilibrium or crushed coral for some minerals? For the detritus, I was thinking about replacing the hob with a Fluval 207 with a spray bar or an internal filter with a spray bar for better circulation. I had a UV sterilizer with spray bar on one of my other aquariums, and that kept the substrate clean. Will the canister filter or internal filter fix the issue of the plants leaning from the hob filter? I am going to bleach dip the plants with a lot of bba, and spot treat the other algae with hydrogen peroxide. Thank you for your help!

Thank you for your reply. How much crushed coral per gallon would I use? I’d like to breed them in a 40g breeder, a 29g, a 37g, and a 30h tank.

Thank you for the response. If livebearers don’t work out, I can raise rainbowfish and Okefenokee Pygmy Sunfish fry because they both like softer water

Good evening, I have attached a picture of my water parameters from out of the tap. In my planted aquariums, that don't have any water chemistry altering elements, the readings by the JNW test strips are: 0 iron 0 copper 25 nitrate 0 nitrite 25 GH 0 chlorine 0 alkalinity 40 KH 6.8 ph I would to breed guppies & endlers, but I know they like harder water. I have read that chasing water parameters is bad. Should I add crushed coral or do something else.

Is this the kind you’re talking about? This is on Amazon too but it’s cheaper from Home Depot. Thank you for the link. Idk why that didn’t come up in search results.

Thank you

Would this product be good for a lid? (3 Pack) PET Sheet Panels - 24" x 36" x 0.03" Plexiglass-Quality Lightweight and Shatterproof Glass Alternative Perfect for DIY Sneeze Guards, Face Shields, Railing Guards, and Pet Barriers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082XR2CQ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_JQJ7ZT61QQA5FH3CTKKC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 A lot of the YouTube video tutorials have links to products that aren’t available anymore. The lid will be for a 40 breeder and I need to cut out a slot of a hob filter that’s on the side. Here’s a picture of my aquarium. The hob is already BB established and I have a small cycled sponge that will be placed on the left side of the aquarium. Here’s a video of my Melanotaenia sahulensis “Skull Creek” that will be inhabiting the aquarium. I’m going to have to buy a new Tidal 55 because I cannot find a place to buy a leveling device to straighten the filter.

That was the only cartridge I had. I know that they’re a grift but I wanted to wait for a long time to make sure the rest of my tank had BB.

Thank you.

This is my 75g paludarium and I would like to know if I’ll get an ammonia spike by replacing the clogged filter cartridge. The paludarium is over a year old so it should have plenty of BB in the gravel, on plants etc… The second picture shows the cartridge and course filter pad that was in the Reptofilter. The third picture is of the fine sponge the I replaced the cartridge with. I put the new sponge in the filter along with the course pad. I placed the old cartridge in the water too and I’ll remove if I don’t need it. I have a small sponge filter in there as well. It’s been running in there for over a month so it should have BB. I think I will be safe as there are a lot of stem plants, aquatic moss, floating plants in the water. The terrestrial plants have their roots growing into the water as well. It also has a medium stocking level. I’m making this post to make sure that I’ll be safe for the next month. I will test the water daily too.

I bought some Furan-2 and Focus today. I dosed Furan-2 only today in the 5.5g, so I’m at Day 2 from your previous post. I’ll keep following that dosing schedule, since I added Kanaplex the day before. I made the Kanaplex food mixture for the 10g and fed that to them. I also removed the uv sterilizer, which raised the temperature up, so it should go back down to 75 F.