Jump to content

AquaAggie

Members
  • Posts

    134
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Posts posted by AquaAggie

  1. s this the dreaded black beard algae?  Tanks has been up for 4 years and this has come on over the last 4 months maybe. I tried reducing my lights (time and intensity) to shot below on my AquaSky and feel like that made it worse or maybe something else was the problem and that made it worse? I have started dosing easy carbon (1 squirt per 10 gallons daily) and tracking my nitrates better to keep 20-40 with easy green. They had been low (0-10). I will be traveling and thinking of doing a 5 day blackout, is this too much? Anything else I can do?  Thanks. 

    IMG_9963.jpeg

    IMG_9962.jpeg

    IMG_9961.jpeg

    IMG_9960.jpeg

    IMG_9959.jpeg

    IMG_9996.png

  2. @Wes L. thanks for the advice. Often times my nitrates are undetectable so maybe they problem is not enough nutrients?  Also here is a better picture of the timing white light starts ramp up at 9 and is off by 10. Still 13 hours of light so I get that this is a problem but I want to be able to see my fish 😂😂😢. And yes there is some BBA that comes and goes from the crinum. I would like to trim ot back a bit which would help with this I think but I hear that if you cut crinum leaves they die?!?!

    @Rube_Goldfish  thanks. There are nerite snails, MTS, and balder snail and a amano shrimp. My super red bristlenose disappeared on me several months ago. I’ve looking for a replacement or a blue eyed lemon but have seen any recently. I have 5 otos in quarantine to go in to help and have been thinking of some more Amanos. Any other suggestions?

    @Rube_Goldfishand @Mmiller2001  I have turned down the intensity once before and that helped for a while. I guess it is a fluctuating thing with tank load, plant load etc. my concern is getting enough penetration for the crypts (wendetti red and parva) down at the bottom Of the tank. Would your suggestions still provide enough penetration at 24” for these. My parva hasn’t died, but it hasn’t grown in Months which I know can be typical. 
     

    thanks all for the suggestions. 

    DC13758F-E577-47EE-B092-6125DF761098.png

  3. I know that balancing a tank is a long and tedious process but I have never been able to get my really dialed in. I’m sure part of it is lack of consistency. But I have been having a big problem with a fine green algae lately, I’m guessing Green Hair algae????  

    I have Val, anubia, Java fern wendelov, crypt wendetii red, a crinum, red tiger lotus, crypt parva, and hornwort. 
    Nitrates practically never get above 20. 
    Try and dose east green once a week ish. 
    Light is an AquaSky 2.0 with the settings shown,
    Tank is 60g and 24” high, and just turned 3 years old. 

    Any ideas on what my biggest problem might be and where to start?

    Thanks

    B738C248-B266-4A59-B988-F32F0BAD3864.jpeg

    CFC037C8-F8AB-4BEA-81C1-C4AF132672B7.png

    785B9C74-18CB-4173-8B07-F88FC5D5A105.jpeg

    9E20114A-69E2-4F14-AD95-D2702159B7C4.jpeg

    1357E81A-2AB4-46E3-A410-A52EE908BB9F.jpeg

    FBCDD35F-DA80-465C-A4D5-5ABCD9DA6570.jpeg

  4. I picked up this wild caught Amazon puffer 1 week ago. The tank as a whole at the store was not looking good, but I hoped that I could treat one of the better looking ones in a quarantine tank. Plus I have been looking for a while and these were only $10!

    He has gone through 5 days of Maracyn and Ich-X and is only looking worse. Previously he was swimming around, now he is floating at the top mostly vertical. 😥
     

    tank is an established 5g quarantine tank.

    Temp 78

    ammonia 0

    nitrites 0

    nitrate trace

    pH 7.8

    there are 5 otos in quarantine with him and they seem fine so don’t think it is a water issue?

    I know they need to be dewormed but given the state of others in the store tank I thought bacterial/fungal treatment was maybe more important first. Am I missing something? Suggestions?

    on a another note if he gets better do the teeth need to be trimmed?

    9AE7DC83-AE19-47C4-AED4-8627DF009843.jpeg

    12645E13-C89F-4773-BEB9-67E493C895ED.jpeg

    4BBEA981-2E52-4DDB-94D8-FEF1E0538134.jpeg

    A12225C3-45BF-4768-83D8-2F877B432E40.jpeg

  5. On 1/24/2022 at 6:47 PM, Colu said:

    Think of it like this tiny fish tiny parasites every species of fish get parasites they have evolved with the fish over thousands of years to infect the smallest and largest species of fish

    I mean i figured but sometimes things do work out the other way. Figure I would check.

  6. Maybe this is a silly question, but are microfish (pygmy cories, phoenix/mosquito/chili rasboras, etc) still at risk of having worms.  I mean I guess anything can happen but is it typical in these small species, or is it typically only in larger (meaning not these microfish)?  I hope that makes sense?

    Is there a general size cutoff under which we don't really see fish get worm infections?

     

    Wondering if I need to prophylactically deworm them like I have taken to doing in my other fish!

  7. I had two madagascar lace bulbs from the Co-Op in two separate tanks.  They both did great initially although were very different from each other.  Once had fairly slender and narrow leaves and the other was gigantic.  Both would have leaves periodically rot away to be replaced with new growth. Over the last several months they have both kind of petered out.  The narrower one now has no growth and the previously robust one has only a few small leaves.  While trying to investigate them, it does not appear that either spouted any appreciable roots.

    The bulbs look a little eaten away on the bottoms but are not squishy or smelly.

    Do bulb plants need to go through periodic dry phases?  How does one do this?

    Do I just leave them alone and they will come back at random in the future?

     

    Thanks for the help.

  8. 13 minutes ago, Colu said:

    It's possible it was nematode worms or some other parasites breaking out though the skin it difficult to no sure you could do I proventive treat of paracleanse  to be on the safe side

    I had done two round already before this happened. I guess another shouldn’t hurt though?

  9. Well it’s been 10 days and the other cories are still alive. Never treated with anything. They are still happily sniffing around the quarantine tank and eating. Was this a one off for one Cory? How much longer should I watch? Should I treat with something?

  10. 4 minutes ago, Fish Folk said:

    Yikes! That’s either something eating out from the inside (worm) or something attacking from the inside. The body lesion is noticeable. Is it possible you’ve got something else attacking it in the QT tank??  

    Certainly nothing I’m aware of 😳

  11. I have had 5 corydoras in Quarantine for a month now. They have been treated with 2 rounds of paracleanse. They have been growing well and no longer have swollen stomachs. Went to go get them to move to my main tank and found one looking like the picture below taking its final breaths.
     

    obviously transfer is on hold. Remaining 4 look fine swimming around. There are bladder snails, MTS, and mystery snails in the tank with Java fern and hornwort. 
     

    Nitrate is 20-30
    temp 78
    kH ~3
    ammonia and nitrite 0
    gH 7
    pH 7.8

    What could cause this?  What do I need treat with again to clear the remainder in quarantine?

     

    thanks

     

    11775A99-F348-4E14-A391-4E2A074DBCF1.jpeg

    86C7476F-A0A6-4FEC-9BF5-0E202DF0F3B5.jpeg

  12. 10 hours ago, GreenWrld said:

    havent come across an air pump that wasnt obnoxiously loud. where can i get silent ones?

    Look At the Co-Op usb air pump. I have seen plenty of people running large sponge filters in 75+ gallon tanks and they are silent

  13. Mine has been set up for a year now without any problem. I have the lights it came with setup but don’t use them as I have an AquaSky light for the plants. The larger front panel compared to a 55 or a 75 is nice. The stand is pretty basic. I was only able to fit a 5 gallon tank inside for quarantine, try as I might I could not get a 10 gallon in. I added a shelf on the the other side of the stand for more storage. I mounted a power strip on the back upper trim inside for all of the plugins. And a whisper 100 placed in the stand is running 8 air stones for a year without issue.
     

     Like I said no complaints and no problem. But if I could do it again I would get a 90 gallon tank for the extra 6” front to back, but have a hard time finding those and certainly not at that price point. I got mine for $150 on Black Friday 2 years ago when it was normally listed for 300 or 350

    FF7C1613-0AB1-4B9C-923B-F1D8D481E0FB.jpeg

    • Like 1
  14. I learned today that what was sold to me as a female golden wonder killi is not a golden wonder killi at all. @Colu was kind enough to suggest it was actually a species of aphyosemion. 
    Best I can tell it was rather drab compared to the pics that I see online so I think may still be female. They also appear to be named killi fish but originate from Africa where as the golden wonder killi come from Sri Lanka.

    My particular fish does not necessarily favor the top of the tank and is found throughout the water column and has plenty of attitude. Saw it square off with one of my Bolivian rams earlier today. 
     

    Can anyone give me more info about this fish?  Thanks

    35F75A54-9A74-4A0E-8BCE-AC1FB60F6E9E.jpeg

    315608DF-4B70-48CE-BEE3-864BA67D4602.jpeg

    7455F2D4-1F7D-489E-B78F-D7D71D86FA6A.jpeg

    B2DED378-A263-4757-ADF4-B809D87C8BDE.jpeg

  15. So if you diagnose a plant nutrient deficiency correctly and take measures to correct it will the damaged leaves recover or will it just prevent further damage. 
     

    For example I have some bacopa with holes in the leaves. It seems to be potassium deficiency. Will the leaves with the holes repair themselves if I dose potassium or will it just prevent more leaves from showing up with holes?

  16. Oh you know what, do you have backflow valve. The one I had originally was “too sealed”. I stuck a screw driver through it to open the nipple rest of the way. It stopped the squeaking and still prevented back flow. Maybe try that?

×
×
  • Create New...