Goldfire
-
Posts
5 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Feedback
0%
Goldfire's Achievements
-
I've never actually seen any Mollies attack any snails. I've been on the lower food level for about a month now with the tank being three months old. The flakes I use are quite large, bigger than some of the fish themselves, so I put the food in a salt/pepper grinder and I do a controlled amount. I used to feed twice a day initially when the tank was new, but I only feed once a day in the morning now. I twist the grinder so the small fish can actually eat the flakes, once I see that it's all gone, I do another twist of the grinder. Repeat about 8 times, the end result is about a pinch worth of food if I was doing it by hand, just that the flakes are now smaller. I wouldn't say the snail issue is super large or anything, I check on the tank in the morning and I might have the front glass covered with about 30 snails. Initially, it was into the 100's easily, so feeding less has definitely helped. That said though, thank you for your help and input, I'll have a think about what I'd like to do long term. Whether that's going with Loaches or looking at the dewormer side of things.
-
@Guppysnail Not a problem, thanks for checking. @Odd Duck Thank you for typing that up and working it out for me. It looks like I'll have some planning and to have a think about how to tackle this. Sorry, I should have mentioned my current tank stock, I currently have: 20x Neon Tetra - I think, I can never count all 20 at once... 3x Female Balloon Mollies 2x Gold Dust Mollies 2x Bristlenose Catfish 5x Male Guppies We're looking at a Male Balloon Molly this week, as well as 3x Male Guppies, and 2x Super Red Bristlenose Catfish. I don't plan on adding anything beyond this as I feel it might be getting a bit overstocked. I was looking at getting a pair (at least) of Pakistani loaches initially, but the local pet store advised against it as the Neon Tetra's may end up as food for them, and that they grow quite large/territorial. If you're confident that they'll mix with the above comfortably, I'll go down that route instead instead of going scorched earth on the tank.
-
Oops, I overlooked that "1/" part - I'll edit my post in case someone else stumbles on it and uses that as the dose for their tank. I see, so a very tiny amount indeed. I'll keep an eye out for a reply regarding the liquid. Many thanks for info.
- 704 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- plants
- plant cleaning
- (and 10 more)
-
@Guppysnail Thank you very much for the information. I may forego the RR treatment then if it would be that detrimental to the cycle and substrate. I plan on using RR in the future for new plants that I may want to add, after treating the tank for the current snails of course. For reference, my substrate is gravel, and is about 5cm-8cm in depth depending on the area. I've attached an image of my current tank if interested. I wouldn't be ready to tackle this until the quarantine tank is ready and have transferred my current fish to it, just for my own peace of mind in case I dose the Fenbendazole incorrectly. I haven't heard of a treatment of Fenbendazole mentioned elsewhere, but so I have it clear, the process would be: 0.6mg of Fenbendazole initially, 24 hours later, add another dose of 0.6mg and let it sit for a total of ten days, do a 50% water change - repeat as necessary until future generations are no longer seen. I assume Fenbendazole is in a powder form and not a liquid? If the liquid form is viable, would the dose remain the same? 10ml per 10 gallons? (60ml in my case) I'll need to research on sourcing that in Australia - we can be quite strict down here sometimes. For example, I can get liquid based Fenbendazole from various sites, such as this one, but powder is proving to be quite tricky to get after my quick searching. Sorry for all the questions, but no rush on answering this if you have time constraints.
- 704 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- plants
- plant cleaning
- (and 10 more)
-
Hi, I'm new here after reading this topic quite extensively, but I didn't really come across any conclusive results regarding what I would like to attempt. I haven't owned a fish tank in over 15 years due to various reasons, and have recently gotten back into the hobby, so consider me new to the whole process again. I have a live planted 240L (63G) tank and would like to remove all traces of Bladder Snails, Mini Ramshorn Snails, and their eggs. I understand their benefit, but it's something that I'm not going for within my aquarium - it isn't out of control, but it's unsightly at times, even when feeding much less than I used to. Assassin snails aren't an option as they're illegal in Australia, and I believe Pakistani Loaches may have trouble with my current stock based on what I've read. Over the coming months, my plan is to cycle a small quarantine tank (40L-80L) that I want to use for sick fish, or when my livebearers are giving birth to keep them separate. After it's cycled, I want to transfer all my current fish to it temporarily and perform RR on my main 240L tank. How viable would RR be to an entire tank? Would this process destroy the beneficial bacteria of the main tank, and need to be cycled again from scratch? As I would need an absurd amount of carbonated water to cover 240L, would I be able to drain the tank to the halfway point, let it sit for a week to force snails and their eggs down lower, then use 120L of carbonated water to destroy them and their eggs? Or, should I take another approach, such as alum or copper on the entire tank? I don't plan on keeping any snails or other invertebrates in my tank in the future. Any input would be appreciated so I can at least get an idea on where to go from here.
- 704 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- plants
- plant cleaning
- (and 10 more)
