Tony s

Could they do 3 males. Would that stop the aggression and/or territorial behavior Or even 3 females for that matter

Yeah, not at all looking forward to that. Wonder if I could call Safelite to get one of their patches🤣

So the question becomes, how do you replace a 75 gallon tank and keep everything going. Sorry, asking for myself. I found a v shaped crack in the middle of the back corner.

Okay. so no viable fry then. Still you've got them healthy and thriving. Much more than i can do. so, the apistos are in RO. That's one of the reasons i hesitated on the stocking suggestion

You're 2 cents are worth much more than 2 cents. I have always been impressed with your keeping and breeding discus in our water. Hadn't realized hongsloi was that hardy. I do know a lot of the others aren't. My wife wants a discus tank, but I'm totally intimidated by them. going to try rams again shortly. failed the first time

Yeah, you might be able to do the cacatuoides or panduro. Your ph is slightly lower than mine . Worried about the longevity. But those two are among the hardiest in hard water . They tend to fade away in our water. Possibly the Bolivian also. Forgot about them.

I believe that was a polite way to tell off the previous two posts. 😂. I ran his stocking through a couple of calculators and it passed just fine. That’s what is truly great about this hobby. It can be done in oh so many ways. If that combo hit him just right. Than it great. Go for it. for his question, bichirs can be nocturnal. Chocolates like to hide when they can. Not sure why the rainbows are not out front and center. Ctenapoma also can be somewhat nocturnal and like to hide. Festivum prefer groups and don’t like to be alone. I think I might add a couple more either of the ctenepoma or 3 festivum. Whichever one he likes better.

Yeah, I tried that with my 39 gallon dark glow fish tank. It was a blue light for them. But I glued it to the roof. Unfortunately, it wasn’t totally water proof and condensation got into the switch. New rule of thumb, all lights in a tank must be water proof. No fish injuries. Next time I’m going to use a dremel and cut a whole in the lid for the next light. Maybe. I’m a bit skittish about ruining the lid😀

haven't done kribs yet either, but they look cool. and from west africa, so hard water. was just searching for a showpiece that didn't eat greens

I'm thinking too hard of water for either a ram or an apisto. Trust me, I want both. But our water is similar and don't think we can do it. almost everything else we can. but those 2 species seem to be very sensitive. I have had luck with angelfish in this water. tank raised in local water would be best. possibly too big for the greens. how about a couple of pearl gouramis. or a couple of super red kibensis

your pearl weed would actually like more light. but lights can be really expensive. tops aren't too bad but still more$ I saw your fern. it wasn't too bad for a first try. I think you could have saved it by shaving close to the glue point. you may want to try the pearl in a lower light setting. Coop light runs 80$ plus a new top

Honestly, you may not need to. I don't think you have anything that requires higher light. you have anubias and wendelove fern for sure. and what else? These will grow just fine on kit lights as they are low light plants. they may look like they're doing poorly. but just need time to acclimate to your tank. Most of my tanks run off just kit lights, and most of my plants do just fine. now, I also have a 75g with higher light plants that has a glass top and fluval grow lights.

Yeah, I use the seachem equilibrium, acid buffer and alkali buffer. For RO water due to high iron in the well. But someone here was suggesting using cuttle bone. The kind you would use for small. birds. in the back of the hob or in the tank and it will just dissolve away. the problem with coral shell, cuttle bone or aragonite is control. they dissolve into the water until it becomes saturated. with the buffers you can custom make your water, as it were. the bonus with cuttlebone and coral, it's really easy, just set and forget it.

Sicce tidal series are supposed to be extremely quiet. the pump is in the tank. so the water deadens the sound. it has the added benefit of priming itself as needed. Tidal 35 is their smallest, but is more than enough for a 10

Painting the back of the tank is easy. I use a black acrylic paint available from craft stores. Acrylic, because if you change your mind, it can easily be scraped off. you can do other types, but they can be permanent. It does take about 3 coats to do the job, however. Staining plastic shouldn't be an issue. or even painting it. but haven't done that yet.

Yeah, and that’s the only problem I see. People like us are going to take care of our animals. I like what my lfs does. They make sure (as much as they can) the animals are treated well. Too many people don’t have respect for their animals. They’re just decorations. And trust me, I’m not an animal welfare nut. My family actually raises livestock for a living, but animal welfare is and should be important. I hate the idea of a throw away animal

Yeah, we’re all very nice here. I wonder what happens when you throw that question into the wild 😜

Yeah, I’m not really sure why it’s so controversial. All three systems work just fine. I have done all three before. By accident in my first couple of tanks. You know, buy tank, add fish. But we learn. My lfs still recommends a fish in cycle. They offer a few very hardy species until the tank is cycled, then they do exchanges when ready. I usually add fishless fuel ammonia, just because it’s so convenient. I have done ghost feeding before. I do use fritzyme7, but Seachem stability or Dr Tim’s work just as well. I really think it’s just a personal choice and have no issues with any cycling method. I do think for larger tanks it’s a bit easier with fuel. Not going to try water change in large tanks. I still use buckets as my tanks are scattered around. the only consideration for me, is the health of the animals. That’s a whole lot of water changing. But as long as you can keep up with it. It’s not a problem. The problem is that a lot of people either can’t or won’t be consistent enough.and the animals do suffer.

If you haven’t seen this one yet. From my favorite channel

I use a food safe garden hose I picked up on Amazon. Was worried about possible contamination in the hose.

Right. Gotta get this down first then the fun part. For something to play and plan with try aqadvisor.com. It’s a stocking advisor. You put in your tank size and what fish you want. It gives you a good idea of what can go together and how many. But you pick everything going in your tank. It just double checks it for you.

that’s what I normally do though. But I went and got my bottle of fishless fuel. And actually doesn’t say that. Says after it clears first, you should be okay. I must just be extra paranoid 😂

What you’re after is the ability of your bacteria to clear ammonia from the tank in a quick and efficient manner. As they’ll be getting a consistent dose from any fish in the tank. So the first dose starts the cycle with the addition of beneficial bacteria. Usually fritzzyme7 or Seachem stability. Then sends it to zero over time. The second or third dose of ammonia is to make sure it clears in 24 hours, simulating the ammonia produced from living fish. The ability to clear in 24 hours being key

Honestly, I would keep dosing the ammonia. Adding plant fertilizer like Seachem flourish or flourish excel doesn’t provide enough pure ammonia to fully cycle the ammonia eating bacteria. That’s the first step in your cycle. Without enough ammonia your cycle could stall, and take much longer to complete. Then when the ammonia and nitrite disappears within 24 hrs you’re done.

You could do a water change if you want to. It’s not really going to do a lot. It won’t affect your cycle either way. Just have to be patient. You’re probably a week or two away from a basic cycle. Your plants won’t care about the form of nitrogen they get. So higher nitrates or nitrates are still beneficial for them.