Phoenixfishroom

I am going to dm you my contact info. I have zero problem waiting until June. as someone said below, I was thinking sourcing females might be a problem because I never see them in pictures. I believe it is like scarlet badis, they are bland looking so they don’t get sent with wild caught shipments often.

Do you sell them? The ones I was going to get were wild caught and I would much rather get them from a fellow breeder than get wild caught, looking for like 20. Message me if you want to discuss.

And as a side note the statement synos rarely breed in captivity is actually pretty outdated information. Rift lake synos (multipunctatus, Petricola, and lucapinnis) are quite commonly bred in captivity these days, as are decorus. People have been breeding nigriventris more commonly as well. There have even been successful spawns of angelicus, euphrites, and shoutendeni at this point.

If you have habros that swim upside down that is some shit I need to see 🤣🤣 seriously though, how dumb would I have to be to look at a syno the same size as an adult habro and not be able to tell them apart…. Even if it wasn’t swimming upsidedown?? I have been breeding habros for years, I breed many species of catfish. I also breed khuli loaches and hillstream loaches. I plan to breed mormyrids and ropefish and have no doubt that I will be successful, using the same method I use on the syno tank for that matter. ….honestly I am a little insulted that you actually think it is more likely I can’t tell the difference between a syno and a cory (really???) then that I just know what I am doing. Had you asked a more reasonable question I could have gladly told you that while they don’t commonly breed in captivity they also aren’t commonly kept in schools of 16 (10 at the time) in a tank where the seasons get replicated getting fed live and frozen food 4-5 times a week. And then it probably would have seemed quite reasonable to think that they are just well conditioned, happy and healthy, and had the right trigger provided to them.

Can I get an update on what you have learned about these guys? I am about to order 20 of them. Kind of the same deal, saw a picture and HAD to have them. Finally tracked some down. All I really know is they like cold hard water and a big school so info from your experience is appreciated

The problem was that I couldn’t find any of those things anywhere local i ordered and used paraguard until it arrived thanks

My biggest single water change is like 50 gallons at a time but that’s just one tank… we are talking hundreds of gallons at a time potentially Actually run out of water and have to boil water to do the smaller tanks after running out the hot water heater to do the bigger ones I have over 20 tanks, 7 of them are 60+ gallons, there is a 150, 100, two 75, three 60s

Ok so I was cleaning my tank the other day and found 1 s.contractus baby. I would say it is probably just about a month old, just starting to swim upside down and about the size of a corydora habrosus, which share a tank with my synos. I am pretty happy about this occurrence but this means that I need to move the contractus out of that tank. They live in a mixed school with s.nigriventris and while I don’t think this is a hybrid I don’t want hybrids in the future. Also, obviously someone at the other eggs/fry and I dont think they eat their own young. so now I am setting up a new tank and looking for more contractus. They are used to living in a school of 10, but there are only 4 of them. I did happen to look while there were zebra variant nigriventris available and just ordered 6 of them so that school will still be full size… contractus are hard to come by though. Hopefully they will just increase their own numbers a bit more in the near future. I plan to use the wet/dry season method on their new tank to stimulate spawning. I will say I was overdue for a water change on that tank, I have heard that you need to let the tank get a little dirty, there ,at be something to that.

Yes sometimes I have dreams where I’m just doing water changes, just plain old doing water changes lol

Is it possible to use a high powered inline heater like 500 watts maybe to heat the tap water to temp on demand for water changes? Or has anyone tried one of those mini tankless water heaters that go under the sink that you can get for like 80$? I simply do not have access to enough hot water to do all of the water changes even if I spread them out. And now adding a 150 gallon, 100 gallon, and another 60 breeder for large breeding projects… I need to figure out hot water on demand without breaking the bank

Building an indoor pond with 2 canister filters made from 5 gallon buckets. Thinking about getting fancy with a hygrometer, ts meter, thermometer, conductivity meter, dosing pump, and some pumps running from a reserve tank to rain bars all hooked to home assistant or something similar. The plan is to mimic the wet and dry season by controlling all of those factors and also programming the lighting for longer and shorter days to match the seasons. the tank will be an African river biotope with my 13 Petrocephalus simus, 5 ropefish, 10 alestopetersius brichardii (although Once the rope fish get bigger I may not want to risk keeping such rare and expensive fish with them they are about 3” full grown… probably too big to get eaten but I may get a different species of African tetra or barb that is about that size Fir dithers instead), and some livebearers to play the roll of self replicating tasty snack, as well as some shrimp and scuds as c,earners/snacks. It is probably going to take a long time to have all the fancy stuff installed but I plan to have the pond up and running for the fish to live in next month. if I can find a 150 or 180 gallon tank cheep enough I may move the whole show over there and spray paint 3 sides black to keep it nice and dim like the like. The substrate I use is sand mixed with river clay so the water gets a slightly murky look to it… they prefer it that way. this is by far my most ambitious project ever, on many levels, but I do feel pretty confident about my odds of eventual success.

I don’t have any idea how this got through quarantine, but I have an anchor worm outbreak. I am pretty devastated, I have never seen this before and the prognosis doesn’t sound great. I need to break out the big guns on this right away. Does anyone know where to get potassium permanginate in person over the counter? Sounds like that is my best bet but I need to be able to get it tomorrow and can’t figure out where to go. If anyone knows where I can go or knows of an equally effective med that is easier to get please let me know. Thanks

Ok so as a preliminary update I can say that definitely all of this moss is doing just fine underwater. From a previous trial I also can say that even moss that has been dried out (to use for crafts) for over a year will grow again once you put it in the tank. Also, because I forgot about half of the stuff I collected in a bucket of water until today I also feel pretty confident saying that water temp doesn’t matter much, that water was 60° and I have been growing some in tanks as high as 82° for several months. The bucket also was not getting any direct sunlight and the water was very muddy but all the moss is fine, most of my tanks also have low lighting so it is probably safe to say that pretty low lighting will also not be a problem. Will report back when I feel I can say anything else with certainty. washing all of the dirt it was in off and gluing it to rocks and driftwood also has not hurt any of it so far.

Lots of loaches eat snails, yo-yo get like 6” but zebra botia only get 3” and rosy loaches only like 1.5”. Dwarf chain loaches and any botia are options too. while assassins may not be the most helpful I do want to clarify that I did some research and can’t find any instances of them eating adult nerite or mystery snails. They have been known to hunt in packs (pretty cool honestly) for adult ramshorn and very young mystery snails though. Also, while in theory it is possible for them to overpopulate a tank it isn’t really a concern under most circumstances if there are fish in the tank. The eggs take 1-2 MONTHS to hatch and then the young are very tiny (like 1mm) and translucent live under the sand for as much as 6 months after that. My point being very few of these things make it to adulthood without themselves being eaten, either as an egg or a young tiny snail, or being sucked up when you vacuum.also they require a male and female so when you see them doing the deed, which you will, you can move one of them to a different tank to prevent it if you care to.

So this is something you developed from super red BN, correct? It popped up in your lines or is this a different L#, or hybrid? It’s definitely pretty cool looking

This is not related to the plant care but I saw you talking about putting fish in here and wanted to touch on that. Unfortunately a 1.5 gallon is not large enough to house any fish species comfortably. 10 gallons is really the smallest tank you can keep fish in, except maybe bettas and even then 5 gallons bare minimum. A good basic guideline is not to stock more than 1” of fish per gallon of water and most nano fish won’t do well in groups of less than 6-10. You could get some cherry reds or any of those neocardinia shrimp though, they are entertaining little critters and would be quite happy colonizing a 1.5g planted tank. assassin snails won’t bother them and could also go in, they will eat shrimp food and if you aver get plants with pond snails they won’t get out of control. All you would would need is a sponge filter, heater, and some water conditioner.

I have never heard of assassins going after adult Nerite or mystery snails. In an aquarium environment they are part of the cleanup crew and will eat extra fish food as a main part of their diet if they can. When there are no other snails assassins do just fine eating whatever else you feed the tank. Sometimes I wonder if mine are so useless because they already get plenty to eat… my worst aquarium vice it feeding on the heavy handed side, I own it lol. So instead they just sit around doing hedonistic snail shit all day and I am left crushing bladder and ramshorn snails with my snail crusher (aka a long baseball bat keychainj) 😒

Maybe not the easiest way but I make backdrops from epoxy resin, can make them look like rock walls or whatever I want and they are 3D. You need to make the mold for it yourself as well though so there would be a definite learning curve

I have a 55 hex that has a 200gph canister, I feel like a hex tank really needs a canister no matter what size. I also have a large sponge filter and circulator fan. There are a trio of wabenmusters, some corydora similis, blue eyed rainbows, and parasycidium bandama in it. Huge piece of driftwood as a centerpiece and some tall plants. I feel like they are ok for algae eating plecos because of the extra wall space, the p. Bandama also don’t swim, they climb on the driftwood and walls. There is sufficient floor space for the Corys. The rainbow fish are getting moved though they need more room to swim in a straight line. I think the logistics of what you could put in a 20 hex would be much harder though.

My assassin snails are basically useless. All they do is hang out on the driftwood having snail sex all day. They lay lots of eggs but they are no good for that either due to the long hatch time and the several months the young spend waiting to get sucked up when I vacuum the sand. I ordered some rosy loaches and zebra botia… bringing out the big guns lol

@Fish Folk I definitely think it will work. There are small details to work out but that would all have to be done in real time. Like making sure that the filter can pump from the bottom tank to top one at the same speed as the ones coming down. I think having a drilled spot to catch overflow might not be a bad idea. I also wonder if I could split the return on a large filter for the return. Like if there are two lines from 100gph canisters going into the bottom tank and one 200gph filter running off it, split the return on the 200gph to feed both top tanks.

Everyday is the hour(s) challenge over here these days. I am preparing to launch my official shops within the next couple of weeks and there are lots of new tanks being set up, lots of fish coming in, racks/filtration/lighting systems being reworked and an endless amount of work to do. Lots of space for expansion in the new fish room/workshop means my fish get to see a lot of me. Today I set up a 75 gallon tank to move my LDA046 into and cleaned/reset that tank for the columbian and spoonface whiptails I have coming, set up a 30 long to give my reticulated corydora their own species tank, set up quarantine for the 120 tetras coming in 2 weeks (filters and substrate seeded from mature tanks so they will be cycled and ready to go), and worked on the new mudskipper tank some as well. I found a recipe for the perfect mud for them that allows them to dig natural tunnels and burrows and am setting up a much larger tank to house the ones I have now plus the 4 more that are coming to join them, I have high hopes of being able to breed them after modifying my system with a a much deeper layer of mud that will allow more natural behaviors and a revamped system of pumps to allow for more natural tidal flow. I got tips from an expert who has successfully spawned several species in captivity. I am even considering getting another species. This evening I am working on some caves and on decorations with live plants and driftwood to beef up my inventory.

I have a bunch of these cheep canisters that pump around 100gph, they aren’t super effective on their own but they are plentiful and easy to clean. I am thinking about using them to run racks of small tanks together. The thought is each tank could have one could have the intake for one of these little guys and the tank below it could have the return. The bottom level would be a reserve tank running a single large canister on it, pumping like 700gph turning the water over like 30 times per hour. There could be a return pump or another one of these tiny filters pumping water from the reserve tank back to the top. I would just need to figure out a failsafe for if some part of the system goes to prevent a flood. I have been wanting to start automating my tanks a bit anyway, I am thinking water level sensor on a smart outlet that can cut the power if need be. ideas?

Mine is not secured to the wall. I would say that if you are gonna put it on the second floor that up against a load bearing wall perpendicular to the floor joists would be best though.

You can feed them first bites fry food or yeast Also I dont even use green water at all and they do fine. I have a couple cultures in gallon jars that I feed with first bites and I also culture them right in the tank with my freshwater pipefish, those don’t get fed anything special.