The endler guy
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Posts posted by The endler guy
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On 4/29/2023 at 10:36 AM, Biotope Biologist said:
Everything that kills leeches also kills snails and is not so great for shrimp.
No planaria in my experience has been fine for shrimp
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On 2/6/2022 at 10:38 PM, modified lung said:
Recently, I was told there is a national blackworm shortage. So naturally, I saw this as a great opportunity to exploit the locals for that cash money. ...
Good, the two companies who produce them have a monopoly
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He ate yesterday!
SUPER aggressive to eat
also does anyone notice their snake more active after they eat?
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On 4/22/2023 at 2:16 PM, Odd Duck said:
Good on both. Is that cool end substrate temp or warm end? It matters.
warm end, where it is the deepest and he spends most of his time
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On 4/21/2023 at 6:39 PM, Odd Duck said:
Do you have a thermometer that you can push down into the substrate? Very gently, of course, since you don’t know for sure where he’s hanging out. You can at least get an idea what the worm end and cool end substrate temps are and let me know. That’s the starting place. He may be warm enough in there that he doesn’t feel the need to come out and bask. Do you have any real rocks or only the plastic hides in the tank? Have you gotten any plants or CUC in the tank, yet?
Nevermind, looked back and found the rescape post, but didn’t see if you’ve got your CUC added?
I haven’t been able to get more cleanup crew but I should be today
substrate temp is 71
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On 4/21/2023 at 9:51 AM, JettsPapa said:
- I wouldn't recommend a German blue ram. They don't usually thrive long-term unless the tank water is in the low to mid 80's, and that's too warm for your platys. They also prefer softer water than most livebearers.
- I wouldn't recommend a dwarf gourami due to their frequent health and/or aggression issues.
- A Bolivian ram might be a good option. They do well in a wider range of water parameters than German blue rams, and are generally peaceful.
- Personally, I wouldn't get just three or four corys, though it would probably be okay. Like most shoaling fish, they seem to do best in larger groups. If you do want them I'd encourage you to get one of the smaller species and get at least six. If you choose Corydoras pygmaeus you'd probably be okay with 8-10.
All of this is assuming that you won't be having platy offspring in this tank to deal with.
Bolivians are a good idea but depending on the individual (mine is quite rambunctious)
they do get quite large though
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On 4/21/2023 at 1:52 PM, Odd Duck said:
Good! Be a touch careful with high 90’s. That isn’t likely to cause issues but it could make them stay down in the cooler substrate if the overall temp is a touch too high. There is sometimes a very fine line where the basking is just right vs warm enough to trigger more hiding. I do really like a warm end/cool end set up but with juvies you have to make sure the coolest part of the cool end isn’t too cold. Can you use an aquarium thermometer or a thermometer probe to check the substrate temp at the coolest part plus the area where he hangs out the most?
I believe he spends most of his time in the ground under the warm area (the substrate is pretty deep) although I don’t really know where he spends his time (and that is the problem)
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On 4/21/2023 at 12:43 PM, Odd Duck said:
100% agree on live feeding being too dangerous to the snake, especially a young milk snake.
Basking is still under what I recommend. One of the biggest issues I see for snakes is a basking site that’s either too hot or too cool. I’d really like to see your’s closer to 95’F unless your coolest substrate temp is at least 75’F. If less than that, you absolutely need your basking to hit 95’F.
Sometimes young snakes don’t know what’s good for them and we have to help and make decisions for them so they stay in their POTZ. If they are maintaining their internal temp a bit on the low side their immune system will be suppressed, their appetite will be suppressed, and their digestive enzymes won’t work right. This can lead to very serious issues and eventually death of the snake.
I know you’re not paying me my usual office visit price but you’re getting free advice from a veterinarian that’s been seeing exotics for 29 years. I’ve worked at clinics where I saw almost 90% exotics. I certainly can’t make you take my advice, but I assure you, I do know what I’m talking about. You’ll have to make your own decision about care, but you did ask for advice, why not take it?
I definitely could have phrased what I said better, the basking spot is quite warm in the high 90’s (I had 2 lamps, and moved them over to one side to create more of a hot spot)
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On 4/21/2023 at 8:31 AM, TheSwissAquarist said:
Is feeding live animals legal in the US?
*Although just waiting until he shows signs of starvation might be a good idea🤦♂️
I think it is legal, but live feeding is dangerous
On 4/21/2023 at 1:45 AM, Odd Duck said:What’s the temp in the substrate, in his tunnels, and the basking site? Were you able to get your basking site over 85’F? It really should be closer to 95’F because damp substrate will usually run too chilly and they’ll slowly get sluggish.
The basking site is quite warm ~90 sometimes
overall I think there is a good temp gradient
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Any tips for getting my little guy to feed (he doesn’t even leave his tunnels so I can’t hold him or really even find him to give him his food)
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On 4/19/2023 at 12:05 PM, Odd Duck said:
Perfect shed!!!! Lovely! Did he eat yet?
sadly not yet
from the looks of it he came out the right-side near the water bowl, went under the leaves in the middle and went back under ground through the log
probably sleepy
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My little dude is alright!
not only that look at this shed! Beautiful
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When should I start worrying that I haven’t seen my little dude/ he hasn’t eaten for nearly a week
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What I’m really worried about is that he hasn’t eaten since the 4th
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So I’m worried about my little dude because I haven’t seen him since Tuesday, and he hasn’t eaten since Tuesday last week
how should I precede
wait or dig through the substrate
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Are you trying to scare away customers
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On 4/14/2023 at 10:05 AM, Chick-In-Of-TheSea said:
Just curious, can snakes eat meats that humans eat (ie: chicken, beef, pork, etc..?)
I highly doubt it, but I lucky got some at my lfs
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On 4/12/2023 at 11:21 PM, Flynn Naysmith said:
That’s really interesting. chytrid fungus is a huge problem in NZ as well.
its a huge problem in the entire world
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On 4/12/2023 at 1:25 PM, Odd Duck said:
As a veterinarian, I hate heat rocks. They are too unreliable and reptiles have a very slow, delayed response to a gradual build up to excess heat and can easily get burned. I’ve seen way too many burns from heat rocks. In my opinion, all electrical components and cords should be on the outside of a reptile enclosure if at all possible (not always possible with very large enclosures, but you’ll never need a giant enclosure with your milk snake).
It is much safer to use a heat bulb and adjust the height above the tank with an end goal of around 95’F for the basking spot for a milk snake. I recommend all heat sources on one end of the tank so you can try to have a good heat gradient so they can self regulate. You need to limit how hot and how cool each end gets more strictly with youngsters. Adults a could easily handle going down to 60-65’F on the cool end and 105’F at the basking site. I recommend no lower than 70’F or higher than 95’F for a youngster which are more sensitive. Do you have a temperature gun? ZooMed makes a very cheap IR thermometer which works just fine. Mine have never been more than about 1-1.5’F off from a known accurate thermometer. This is one of the best ways to check temps at the cool end, basking spot, etc.
You can put a heating pad against the side or end of the tank for additional heat down low if needed. I don’t like them against the bottom in case water gets spilled - it can crack the glass but wet bedding also transmits heat too well and can cause burns, plus it can grow more bacteria in the bedding with extra heat in the bedding. Heat pad against the side reduces risk of cracked glass, or wet bedding transmitting too much heat. It doesn’t completely remove the risk of growing more bacteria or mold, but your CUC in a bioactive should take care of that and minimize risk.
It’s not likely your little guy will eat while in blue. He might eat after his eyes clear and just before he sheds but far more likely that he will wait until after he sheds, then be ready to eat a good meal.
What all do you have for CUC? Did you get good amounts of isopods and springtails - enough to start with a good population? You didn’t have the set up prepped ahead of time, right, since it was a surprise? It’s going to be a good bit before you’re properly bioactive unless you bought a LOT of CUC’s. This means you’ll have to be extra careful about cleaning up droppings and monitoring moisture levels since you won’t have the numbers of CUC’s to prevent mold and bacteria build up in damp substrate.
For my clean up crew I have some springtails (I still need to get some isopods)
I an not super concerned with molding as it is fairly dry and probably not enough moisture to cause more mold then the small amounts of what I have can handle
I’ll definitely pick up a heat gun, that is one thing that I have been meaning to get, but I also have thermometers so I’m not just going in blind with the heat lights
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On 4/12/2023 at 11:38 AM, Guppysnail said:
Place a heat pad on one side of his tank. Depending on his heat requirements if they like a significantly cooler side place it on his basking side. If ambient temp in the room falls below his comfort zone place it on the cool side. Also if the temperature is too warm in the entire tank he will burrow to the cooler temperature.
mince you have space throughout the enclosure that is his comfort at all times he will be more visibly active. When he is active you can handle him. I never recommend digging them out when they are resting. If he hides most of the time it’s because his visible areas are not perfect comfort zones.
Note though some species simply prefer to stay hidden at all times. I’ve not worked with any of those though.I am fairly certain he is hiding because he is in shed, is primarily nocturnal, fossorial, and still young, from what I’ve read this isn’t unusual behavior
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They are difficult (very limited experience with filter feeders) but feeding them is tricky, definitely more work than reward
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On 4/12/2023 at 8:38 AM, Guppysnail said:
This is important. Once they start to show she’d limit interactions as he will view it as a threat.
Ya I’m aware, definitely want to keep his stress down in this uncomfortable time for him
I haven’t handled him yet as I don’t want to uproot the entire terrarium and scare him
any suggestions on how to actually “catch” him?
also since I got him recently he could have been going through shed and that’s why he hasn’t entirely left his burrows
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On 4/12/2023 at 7:42 AM, CrashBandit05 said:
Beautiful snake and bioactive set up! I haven't owned milksnakes before so I can't comment on their specific care requirements. One thing I will suggest is to use gloves and long tongs when feeding pinkies, the last thing you want is for your hand to smell like food! If you want to be able to handle your noodle, start ASAP. I would probably wait til he/she sheds, then get it used to being handled.
Yup I use tongs to feed, and I definitely want to handle my little guy but he is never out, so I haven’t been able to handle him
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Bolivian Ram Journal
in Photos, Videos & Journals
Posted
It’s interesting, spooky when I first introduced him he’s decimated my cherry shrimp population (from a huge strong colony to one left) but as of recently the final cherry shrimp is moving around in the open, and a ghost shrimp will walk right in front of him and he doesn’t care. He also has a fine appetite, sand sifting and eating foods, he is fairly colored up and looks fine
Have you noticed snoopy acting strangely
my little guy as of recent had been doing a behavior that is like a slow flashing behavior, he will go down on the substrate and do flash almost in slow motion, he also will swim around erratically twitching his pectoral fins
otherwise he seems fine, colored up eating and otherwise looks fine