bvaring Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Can somone tell me what kind of algae this is? It is the little green spots? They are stuck to the glass and very hard if not impossible to remove by force or chemicle. If you also notice the BBA, I know about that one and the same applies but I'm working on it. Each time I get a little plant growth the BBA takes over. The vallisneria was covered with it so I cut it all back and it hasn't grown back yet. I have tried peroxide dosing (didn't work, try again?), and daily flourish excel but only for a week. On the pic with the wood I see at the top the BBA has turned grey after brushing some on the wood only outside the tank. But I can't see all the BBA spots to brush on because it is hard to see outside the tank. Also, I figure if I don't get it out of the water it will just grow back and the little spot treatments will not matter. I don't want to even try spot treating the plants. I am amateur, really, I know but my fish live on almost no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Black beard algae. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 (edited) On 9/3/2024 at 9:33 PM, Mmiller2001 said: Black beard algae. No, what are the green specks on the first pic. I can get rid of them. Suggestion? Edited September 4 by bvaring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 All I see is Blackbeard algae. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beach Cruiser Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 Reduced lighting is the only thing that really had an effect on GSA for me. Anything over 7hrs full light starts to get problematic. I experimented with a 4hr siesta between two 4hr light periods, & while it did slow down the algae...it also slowed down the plant growth. BBA only pops up in areas of high flow if i get lazy & let the nutrients/organic waste build up or get imbalanced. This is in a fairly heavy planted low tech tank. I'm sure other setups will vary... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeQ Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 (edited) Green spot algae https://nilocg.com/blogs/news/algae-common-causes-and-solutions-for-different-types The first step in removing algae should always be to roll your sleves up, get your hands wet and clean, clean, clean!!! Also a good read to understanding algae https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/algae-control/algae-and-tank-maturity?_pos=1&_psq=Tank+matura&_ss=e&_v=1.0 Edited September 4 by JoeQ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 On 9/3/2024 at 10:20 PM, Beach Cruiser said: Reduced lighting is the only thing that really had an effect on GSA for me. Anything over 7hrs full light starts to get problematic. I experimented with a 4hr siesta between two 4hr light periods, & while it did slow down the algae...it also slowed down the plant growth. BBA only pops up in areas of high flow if i get lazy & let the nutrients/organic waste build up or get imbalanced. This is in a fairly heavy planted low tech tank. I'm sure other setups will vary... Nitrates are always 40+. I just did a 50% water change and it still shows 50 ppm nitrates before and after the water change. How is it possible that it does not change? I have seen this statement "Optimize fertilization: Improve fertilization levels." Should I fertilize and what does optimize and improve mean for my tank? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeQ Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 On 9/4/2024 at 1:30 PM, bvaring said: How is it possible that it does not change? Your test strips /solution is probably expired. Other explanation is operator error. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWilk Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 On 9/4/2024 at 12:30 PM, bvaring said: Nitrates are always 40+. I just did a 50% water change and it still shows 50 ppm nitrates before and after the water change. How is it possible that it does not change? I have seen this statement "Optimize fertilization: Improve fertilization levels." Should I fertilize and what does optimize and improve mean for my tank? Thanks Test your tap water source. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted September 4 Author Share Posted September 4 On 9/4/2024 at 1:08 PM, MWilk said: Test your tap water source. It thought about that yesteday and tested and it was 0. I never thought about the test strips being bad. I'll get it tested at PetSmart today. Thanks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MWilk Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 On 9/4/2024 at 1:16 PM, bvaring said: It thought about that yesteday and tested and it was 0. I never thought about the test strips being bad. I'll get it tested at PetSmart today. Thanks The test for nitrates isn’t very sensitive. On most color comparator tests you really get about 3 ranges. Zero-very low, just right, and way too high. There’s a good chance your nitrates are way high and you just cut them down but not enough to make a difference in the test. are you using the ACO test strips? Try a liquid dropper test. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted September 5 Author Share Posted September 5 On 9/4/2024 at 1:20 PM, MWilk said: The test for nitrates isn’t very sensitive. On most color comparator tests you really get about 3 ranges. Zero-very low, just right, and way too high. There’s a good chance your nitrates are way high and you just cut them down but not enough to make a difference in the test. are you using the ACO test strips? Try a liquid dropper test. I used to use liquid dropper test but I got lazy. I think these strips have expired or got contaminated because the color is kinda brownish pink. I got the water tested at PetSmart today and I think they use the same strips. 0 for both Nitrates and Nitrites and no Ammonia. I might overdone the water changes a bit. I'll have to get new test and see if the Nitrates rise. I hope the 0 level will help to get rid of the BBA. I plan to also start using Flourish Excel again daily. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mmiller2001 Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 For GSA, raise PO4 If nitrates are still high after a significant water change; I would ask if you are using root tabs. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted Sunday at 03:33 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 03:33 AM On 9/4/2024 at 1:20 PM, MWilk said: The test for nitrates isn’t very sensitive. On most color comparator tests you really get about 3 ranges. Zero-very low, just right, and way too high. There’s a good chance your nitrates are way high and you just cut them down but not enough to make a difference in the test. are you using the ACO test strips? Try a liquid dropper test. I'm using API 5-in-1. I had a test kit supplies ran out and I got rid of it. I'll put it on my list of to-buy. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bvaring Posted Sunday at 03:53 AM Author Share Posted Sunday at 03:53 AM Nitrates are already back to 20 according to strips after a 20% water change. I forgot to test it before. I havent cleaned the HOB sponges at all in a while, none through any of this. I have a in=tank bubble sponge filter I could add but I didn't think that would help with Nitrates. For now the BBA is not increasing, I think maybe increased. I started back using Flourish Excel today. I don't understand how to add root tabs and fertilizer if the nitrates are already high (high?) Do I need to do very frequent water changes now? Do I need even more plants to take up the Nitrates? This is a 35 gallon thank with 7 tiny fish and 3 medium-small fish. Oh and are these tiny snails? Are they harmfull? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retrophyllum_minus Posted Monday at 12:29 AM Share Posted Monday at 12:29 AM On 9/14/2024 at 11:53 PM, bvaring said: Nitrates are already back to 20 according to strips after a 20% water change. I forgot to test it before. I havent cleaned the HOB sponges at all in a while, none through any of this. I have a in=tank bubble sponge filter I could add but I didn't think that would help with Nitrates. For now the BBA is not increasing, I think maybe increased. I started back using Flourish Excel today. I don't understand how to add root tabs and fertilizer if the nitrates are already high (high?) Do I need to do very frequent water changes now? Do I need even more plants to take up the Nitrates? This is a 35 gallon thank with 7 tiny fish and 3 medium-small fish. Oh and are these tiny snails? Are they harmfull? Snails are not harmful. In fact, they'll probably help eat algae. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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