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Can’t Tell of if it’s 20ppm or 50ppm


NickD
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If anyone can help, I’m wondering if this is too high for fish to be in my tank

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(I am testing nitrites)

another question: will adding aquarium salt lower nitrites and nitrates?

Edited by NickD
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Yes, that is too high to add fish. 
 

Ammonia and nitrite need to read 0, with some nitrates showing up, to be considered cycled and safe for fish. I know it’s tough, but be patient. You’ll thank yourself, and your fish not dying will thank you as well. 
 

Aquarium salt should not alter nitrites or nitrates in any way. 

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You dont need to add salt whatsover out of nowhere. Why do you even wanna add salt?

If you suspect any diseases or something that aquarium salt would assist you, you can use some. Otherwise using it while stocking a new tank is pointless.

Plants can handle salt to some degree. But it will be a limiting factor for snails and inverts. 
 

just let all nitrite clear off slowly and turn into nitrate, then you can start stocking slowly and that’s it

It really does not matter if its 0.25 or 0.50 to be fair. Both are toxic however shows your cycle has started, unless you have nitrite in tap.

0 nitrite is a must

Did you watch the video I tagged you Nick? He clearly explains how toxic both ammonia and nitrite is. Sorry but as I mentioned before, these questions again mean you did not watch it, or paid attention to the answers regarding the questions you had about cycling. I can’t think of anyone potentially mentioning you can stock with nitrite readings there while assisting you through your cycling questions. 
 

 

Edited by Lennie
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@Peperethat is what I’m thinking about doing, and @Lenniei did watch a little bit but I have seen videos where they say aquarium salt is good to use BEFORE adding the fish into my main tank. The reason is that the fish are stressed when you bring them home and I read that aquarium salt basically deatresses them as well, as it gives them more electrolytes to improve gill function. I don’t see why not as long as I am adding the right amount to not dehydrate the fish. 
 

Basically, I’m planning on quarantining them in a separate tank if need be. 

Edited by NickD
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My advice would be (even though you didn’t ask me for it, specifically), that if you have the ability to quarantine in a separate tank absolutely do so. Even if it’s just with a light dose of salt, that can do wonders. 
 

If I were you, I would continue to work on getting the main tank cycled, and you can absolutely quarantine in a separate tank while you continue to cycle the main tank. 

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On 7/12/2023 at 4:09 PM, NickD said:

another question: will adding aquarium salt lower nitrites and nitrates?

The only thing to reduce water parameters is going to be dilution, meaning water changes.

Adding salt helps with the toxicity of the nitrite harming and causing severe nitrite burns, but it's never a guarantee.

As far as the OP topic is concerned, one thing I heard recently is that the vials are designed to be viewed with the lid removed and top down. If you're ever stuck trying to figure things out try that and see what you see.

On 7/12/2023 at 6:33 PM, AllFishNoBrakes said:

Agreed that you don’t need to add salt. Salt is wonderful for fighting ich and infections. Outside of treating ailments, I do not use salt

There is a few research studies on shipping fish with salt in the bag. I'm assuming this is a continuation of the logic there. Reducing stress by adding some osmotic balance for the fish so they can spend more energy acclimating to the new environment.

Ultimately, I've never added salt to a single tank or had salt in a tank when I've added new fish.

If fish come in beat up and showing Illness, yes I will add salt.  Because it messes with the viscosity of the water it's just not something I've done. I will add airstones and other things before salt.

I would tend to use the advice of "keep it simple" as opposed to trying to incorporate a lot of tips and tricks.

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