Jump to content

Recommended Posts

On 6/4/2023 at 12:42 PM, TheSwissAquarist said:

I have been using Seachem ferts for years. Now I just got Easy Green in, but afraid to use much. I dosed one pump a day for 3 days. Nitrate went from 10-20 ppm to 25-30 ppm. Here are my parameters.

ph-7.5, ammonia-0, nitrite-0, nitrate-25-30, GH-13, KH-3.

 I use a Hygger #978 + 24/7 planted led light and Seachem Tidal 55 HOB Filter.

This is a 36 gallon bow front aquarium, also using aquarium co op large pre filter sponge and large sponge filter. Thank you for your help!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/4/2023 at 12:42 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

We need dosing information and GH KH along with a detailed maintenance schedule. Posting pictures is not enough.

I have a 36 gallon bow front aquarium.

Parameters - ph-7.5, ammonia-0, nitrite-0 nitrate-25-30, GH-13, KH-3.

Water changes 20% weekly using Prime, 50% once a month. I use a Seachem Tidal 55 HOB filter and Hygger #978 - 24/7 planted led light. Feeding using Seachem frets. Just received Easy Green only used one pump per day for 3 days it increased my nitrate from 10-20 to 25-30 ppms. I use an aquarium co op large pre filter Sponge and a large filter Sponge. Thanks for your help!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/4/2023 at 4:26 PM, Mmiller2001 said:

Are you using Seachem ferts and easy green both now? Or switched to just easy green?

I switched to easy green but I’m kind of afraid to use as much as it calls for.

One pump took nitrate level from 10-20 ppm to 25-30 ppm. I just got easy carbon in and did a 35-40% water change and dosed 2 pumps each easy green and easy carbon. Received the multi test strips yesterday. I don’t understand those strips, readings are way off on ph, nitrate, etc. I have always used api test kit. I hope I know what I’m doing! I’ll find out in the morning!!

Hope I don’t wake up to dead fish!

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/6/2023 at 10:18 PM, CatherineD said:

I switched to easy green but I’m kind of afraid to use as much as it calls for.

One pump took nitrate level from 10-20 ppm to 25-30 ppm. I just got easy carbon in and did a 35-40% water change and dosed 2 pumps each easy green and easy carbon.

 

  • 25-30 ppm isn't a problem.  I usually test for nitrate (with the strips) before testing and add some if it's not at least that high.
  • What's your pH?  If it's relatively high you may need to add iron along with the Easy Green.
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2023 at 10:19 AM, JettsPapa said:
  • 25-30 ppm isn't a problem.  I usually test for nitrate (with the strips) before testing and add some if it's not at least that high.
  • What's your pH?  If it's relatively high you may need to add iron along with the Easy Green.

PH is 7.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, gh 11-12, KH 3, tds 339. Should I dose iron every time I dose easy green and easy carbon, do they all work good together?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/6/2023 at 11:18 PM, CatherineD said:

I switched to easy green but I’m kind of afraid to use as much as it calls for.

One pump took nitrate level from 10-20 ppm to 25-30 ppm. I just got easy carbon in and did a 35-40% water change and dosed 2 pumps each easy green and easy carbon. Received the multi test strips yesterday. I don’t understand those strips, readings are way off on ph, nitrate, etc. I have always used api test kit. I hope I know what I’m doing! I’ll find out in the morning!!

Hope I don’t wake up to dead fish!

 

Easy Green and Easy Carbon seem to work good together. Today’s parameters - ph 7.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, gh 11-12, kh 3.
And fish are fine!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/4/2023 at 9:36 AM, CatherineD said:

IMG_0944.jpeg

The anubias may be rotting due to the placement (too much light) or if the rhizome is below the gravel.  I can't tell from this photo, but I just wanted to mention that.  Any of those leaves that are curled inward on themselves and the leaves with heavy algae you would want to remove.  If the rhizome is deteriorating, you can also remove that section of the rhizome. 

 

On 6/4/2023 at 9:36 AM, CatherineD said:

IMG_0946.jpeg



I believe this is a gravel tank, not a soil substrate tank.  Potentially what you are running into here is the lack of nutrients at the roots, especially for stem plants.  Yes, stem plants want nutrients from the water column, but they also can benefit when it comes to having some nutrients available at the soil itself.

Have you ever used root tabs previously?
 

On 6/7/2023 at 6:18 PM, CatherineD said:
On 6/7/2023 at 7:19 AM, JettsPapa said:
  • 25-30 ppm isn't a problem.  I usually test for nitrate (with the strips) before testing and add some if it's not at least that high.
  • What's your pH?  If it's relatively high you may need to add iron along with the Easy Green.

PH is 7.2, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, gh 11-12, KH 3, tds 339. Should I dose iron every time I dose easy green and easy carbon, do they all work good together?

I dose Iron if I am running ferns, moss, anubias, or red plants.  I dose it every time I add in my fertilizers.  You can start off with 1/2 dose of iron and see how the plants do with that single change.  Part of the goal on figuring out this issue is to not change too much! 

One of the only things I can suggest here is what I would do.  If this were my tank this would be my attack plan:
A.  Considering a different substrate and/or root tabs for the sake of ensuring plant nutrients.
B.  Review lighting (intensity and duration), consider plant placement changes for heavy algae covered plants, and ensure lid is clean
----->Lights should only be on for at most 8 hours given your algae issues.  Anywhere in the 4-8 hour range is acceptable.
C.  Ensure filtration is adequate and cleaned often while trying to get ahead of this.  (you're running a tidal, so please also consider the phase 1 adjustments in my tidal mods thread in my signature)
D.  Considering using a phosphate liquid test kit to monitor excess waste and organics in the water promoting algae.
E.   Use a toothbrush or similar to remove algae from plants. Remove any dead leaves or dead plant sections to encourage new plant growth.
------> Step E needs to be done weekly.
F.  Keep a rigorous schedule and try to stick to it for the next month.  Weekly tasks, monthly tasks, etc.
G.  For the next week, consider a 7 day blackout with 25% water changes each day.

Weekly:
-Dose ferts
-Trim and review plant health, take photos
-Clean filtration
-Test your water, nitrates, phosphates

Every 2 weeks:
-Siphon the substrate, scrape the front glass, clean the lid

Every month:
-Water change
-verify all equipment is functioning properly.

Welcome to the forums @CatherineD , I hope everyone here is able to help get things on the right step for you!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/8/2023 at 3:44 AM, nabokovfan87 said:

The anubias may be rotting due to the placement (too much light) or if the rhizome is below the gravel.  I can't tell from this photo, but I just wanted to mention that.  Any of those leaves that are curled inward on themselves and the leaves with heavy algae you would want to remove.  If the rhizome is deteriorating, you can also remove that section of the rhizome. 

 



I believe this is a gravel tank, not a soil substrate tank.  Potentially what you are running into here is the lack of nutrients at the roots, especially for stem plants.  Yes, stem plants want nutrients from the water column, but they also can benefit when it comes to having some nutrients available at the soil itself.

Have you ever used root tabs previously?
 

I dose Iron if I am running ferns, moss, anubias, or red plants.  I dose it every time I add in my fertilizers.  You can start off with 1/2 dose of iron and see how the plants do with that single change.  Part of the goal on figuring out this issue is to not change too much! 

One of the only things I can suggest here is what I would do.  If this were my tank this would be my attack plan:
A.  Considering a different substrate and/or root tabs for the sake of ensuring plant nutrients.
B.  Review lighting (intensity and duration), consider plant placement changes for heavy algae covered plants, and ensure lid is clean
----->Lights should only be on for at most 8 hours given your algae issues.  Anywhere in the 4-8 hour range is acceptable.
C.  Ensure filtration is adequate and cleaned often while trying to get ahead of this.  (you're running a tidal, so please also consider the phase 1 adjustments in my tidal mods thread in my signature)
D.  Considering using a phosphate liquid test kit to monitor excess waste and organics in the water promoting algae.
E.   Use a toothbrush or similar to remove algae from plants. Remove any dead leaves or dead plant sections to encourage new plant growth.
------> Step E needs to be done weekly.
F.  Keep a rigorous schedule and try to stick to it for the next month.  Weekly tasks, monthly tasks, etc.
G.  For the next week, consider a 7 day blackout with 25% water changes each day.

Weekly:
-Dose ferts
-Trim and review plant health, take photos
-Clean filtration
-Test your water, nitrates, phosphates

Every 2 weeks:
-Siphon the substrate, scrape the front glass, clean the lid

Every month:
-Water change
-verify all equipment is functioning properly.

Welcome to the forums @CatherineD , I hope everyone here is able to help get things on the right step for you!

I found your post in my junk mail with a few others!
Yes, this is gravel substrate. My anubias is on driftwood but some of it is in the gravel and I just started using root tabs again!

 I have changed my lighting and only let it run 7 hours a day. 
I removed most of the damaged leaves and started using easy carbon, it is helping. 
The lid on my tank is glass, I had it made.

I think my problem was dosing too many ferts. Monday, Wednesday and Friday I dosed iron, trace and excel. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday I dosed nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, flourish and excel. Sunday is water change day!

You said you dose iron with your ferts! I am using easy green and easy carbon now, should I dose iron with them, and I have seachem phosguard don’t know if I should use it to. I’ll have to get a phosphate liquid test kit, that I do not have.

 I am not sure about doing a blackout, I have done it before but only for 3 days. 
I don’t know how my pleco and assassins will act!
You sent me a lot of info and I really appreciate it and will try my best to follow the schedule!
Thanks for taking the time!!

 I am interested in your Tidal phase 1 adjustments although I’m not sure if I can find it. I will try!
Thanks again for caring!!!

On 6/4/2023 at 12:42 PM, TheSwissAquarist said:

Yes, too many!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/9/2023 at 10:45 PM, CatherineD said:

I am not sure about doing a blackout, I have done it before but only for 3 days. 
I don’t know how my pleco and assassins will act!

Those fish are often nocturnal, so they won't mind at all!  They will spend the time being active and lower stress, able to explore 24/7 without light. 🙂
 

On 6/9/2023 at 10:45 PM, CatherineD said:

I am interested in your Tidal phase 1 adjustments although I’m not sure if I can find it. I will try!
Thanks again for caring!!!

No worries at all, it should be on the first post, please feel free to DM regarding the filter if you need anything

 

On 6/9/2023 at 10:45 PM, CatherineD said:

I think my problem was dosing too many ferts. Monday, Wednesday and Friday I dosed iron, trace and excel. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday I dosed nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, flourish and excel. Sunday is water change day!

You said you dose iron with your ferts! I am using easy green and easy carbon now, should I dose iron with them, and I have seachem phosguard don’t know if I should use it to. I’ll have to get a phosphate liquid test kit, that I do not have.

Easy carbon is an algaecide, so that would be used as need be, not really something that "counts" towards your dosing.  Yes it is something you dose in, but you're not using that as basis to add iron.  I've seen people add small amounts of iron daily, every few days, I only add it once a week.  I dose in my stuff 1x a week, at most I dose in 2x a week if the tank demands it.

The phosguard might be useful and I wouldn't be afraid to use it.  Fixing filtration, removing things manually, blackout the tank, there's a few things going on to do first, but yes.... useful tool for this issue.  After a series of water changes, potentially that's when you would use it.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2023 at 3:13 AM, nabokovfan87 said:

Those fish are often nocturnal, so they won't mind at all!  They will spend the time being active and lower stress, able to explore 24/7 without light. 🙂
 

No worries at all, it should be on the first post, please feel free to DM regarding the filter if you need anything

 

Easy carbon is an algaecide, so that would be used as need be, not really something that "counts" towards your dosing.  Yes it is something you dose in, but you're not using that as basis to add iron.  I've seen people add small amounts of iron daily, every few days, I only add it once a week.  I dose in my stuff 1x a week, at most I dose in 2x a week if the tank demands it.

The phosguard might be useful and I wouldn't be afraid to use it.  Fixing filtration, removing things manually, blackout the tank, there's a few things going on to do first, but yes.... useful tool for this issue.  After a series of water changes, potentially that's when you would use it.

 

I’m going to try a blackout! Trying to find the best way to circulate air. 
I’m going to disconnect the filter. I have been looking at the u shaped pipes but, I want to use an air pump and they look like they’re only for canister filters. 
Don’t know if the sponge filters are good for that. 
2 airstones might work. 
What else could I use to keep the water moving?

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2023 at 10:34 AM, CatherineD said:

I’m going to disconnect the filter. I have been looking at the u shaped pipes but, I want to use an air pump and they look like they’re only for canister filters. 

Leave everything else running as normal.  All you do is block out light from the tank.  Keep any heater and filtration running.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/10/2023 at 5:48 PM, nabokovfan87 said:

Leave everything else running as normal.  All you do is block out light from the tank.  Keep any heater and filtration running.

That’s how I did it before, thought things might have changed. 
There is too many opinions on the net! 
Thanks!! I will let you know how everything turns out. 
If all else fails, I will trash the anubias, java fern and the repens, and buy new ones!

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...