PH Tests

[GinaSue]

I have a 20 gallon long that I started Sept 17, 2022. I live in Seattle and used Amazonia substrate. This is my first tank in 35 years. Way back then I just used gravel with an underground filter and got my PH where I wanted it with PH UP or DOWN.  I did not realize how Amazonia would buffer water and keep my PH low.  I've been into Aquarium Co-op and purchased crushed coral to try to get the PH up, but so far it seems to be staying put. I test about every other day and have lately tried a few different tests.  I am finding that I get different results, or I am not understanding how to read the results. 

My tank has 6 green tetras that are doing great. Friday I bought 5 panda corys from Aquarium Co-op.  They all seemed to be thriving until yesterday morning when I found one dead.  I worried it was a water issue so I tested right away. I did look at the cory under a very strong magnifier and saw no injuries or parasites. 

The test strips from Aquarium Co-op and Tetra seem to indicate low PH.  However, the Master Test from API seems to indicate a much higher PH level. I tested with both the regular PH solution and the High PH solution. So, what is my PH level??

Thanks for your patience and help!   

[Theplatymaster]

what dechlorinator are you using? Ive heard that prime can mess up API test kit results

[PlaneFishGuy]

Do you know what the readings look like on your tap water after it has set out for about 24 hours? It might help to know what your baseline starting point is. 

fighting your tap water chemistry can be a challenge - I've found its best to just stock your tank stuff that matches the hand your dealt. That being said I've seen a lot of people in your area complain about the local PH so my thoughts may not apply to your particular case.

Have you also checked for ammonia? your Nitrates /Nitrites look good if you have a planted tank but if the tank isn't fully cycled you may have some other stressors on the fish. I think most aquarium strains are fairly PH tolerant as long as its not combined with other stressors.   

[Bill]

Hi @GinaSue since the first test (low ph solution) matched the 7.6, you did the high test as you should, hard to tell the color from the photo, but I think it's safe to say it looks like it's between 7.6 and 7.8.

[GinaSue]

I try not to do a water change more than every 2 months.  My ammonia levels stay at 0 and nitrites and nitrates are always great too.  If I do use a dechlorinater it is API Tap Water Conditioner.  But since I only top off I just leave water out for at least 24 hours so I don't have to dechlorinate as I recently learned that can lower oxygen levels in our water. I agree that it looks like the test strips are testing lower than my actual pH. Below is my tap pH. I'm not sure what to make of the test strip in this case.  I'll do a test tube test here next.  I do know Seattle water runs low for pH.  I don't mind sticking with the water that Seattle gives me, but I do want to know for sure what pH I am dealing with so I don't endanger any fish.  Has anyone else had results that vary from test to test?  What do you recommend I rely on? 

Thanks so much for your help!

[modified lung]

When comparing the co-op strips to a professional grade pH meter, the strips always read exactly 1 pH too low for me. That would match your results with the API test which looks about 7.6 give or take.

[PerceptivePesce]

My calibrated digital pH meter matches the API tube results, 7.8-7.9, and the aco test strips read lower. I'd say the aco test stips are about 1pH lower like @modified lungsaid

[Confetto]

Following this post. 

I too, test with (Tetra) strips and get one reading, however when my LFS tests my water with the API it's a different reading. 

 

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 1/11/2023 at 7:25 PM, GinaSue said:

If I do use a dechlorinater it is API Tap Water Conditioner.  But since I only top off I just leave water out for at least 24 hours so I don't have to dechlorinate as I recently learned that can lower oxygen levels in our water.

I know this isn't the point of the thread, but if I may, @dasaltemelosguy just posted "A Brief History of Prime" that contained this:

"A normal dose of Prime^® reduces O2 by about 0.5 PPM yet returns to full oxygen saturation in only 15 minutes (or a full 4 hours with Prime^®’s 5X Emergency Dose):

From LOW O2 - Diseases - C.A.R.E. (aquariumcoop.com)"

I assume that the API dechlorinator is similar enough that if you're using the recommended amount and using an airstone, you'd likely not have to worry about dissolved oxygen.

If what you're doing is working, by all means keep at it (if it ain't broke, don't fix it) but I thought I'd point it out.

[GinaSue]

Thank your Rube_Goldfish and everyone who responded to my inquiry.  I appreciate the information on oxygen depletion. I am learning a lot and always open to learning more. I have ordered a digital pH tester to hopefully add some clarity.  😉

[Matt Armstrong]

On 1/11/2023 at 4:25 PM, GinaSue said:

I try not to do a water change more than every 2 months.  My ammonia levels stay at 0 and nitrites and nitrates are always great too.  If I do use a dechlorinater it is API Tap Water Conditioner.  But since I only top off I just leave water out for at least 24 hours so I don't have to dechlorinate as I recently learned that can lower oxygen levels in our water. I agree that it looks like the test strips are testing lower than my actual pH. Below is my tap pH. I'm not sure what to make of the test strip in this case.  I'll do a test tube test here next.  I do know Seattle water runs low for pH.

Hi @GinaSue,

A few things come to mind.

Compared to 35 years ago, the the focus has shifted away from a reliance on specific pH values in typical community aquariums, and instead focus on maintaining stable ph vales.  The specific pH values are usually most relevant only to breeding, or species with "special needs" such as African Cichlids). Your typical Tetra or Corydoras can live a fine life in Seattle's tap water pH.

With Seattle water (which is soft), and a 2 month water change schedule, a planted tank may well have low Nitrates but is also likely to also have very low KH. KH is consumed by biological cycle in the aquarium, which is why it drops over time. Simply topping off with Seattle tap water over two months will not make up for this. This is why the Aquarium Co-op store adds crushed coral to their substrate. In my experience, in a lightly stocked aquarium regular (weekly or bi-weekly) water changes also suffice to replenish KH. In these tanks I'm doing water changes to replenish KH and other minerals (for the plants), and not to reduce Nitrates (which can stay at zero due to the plants).

As far as the Aquarium Co-op test strips are concerned I have to say...with some disappointment..that I either have a bad batch or they aren't as accurate as some say. I'm in Port Townsend, WA, which has water similar to Seattle: KH and GH in the 3-4 dH range, and a "24H rested tap water" pH or 7.6-7.8.  The co-op test strips don't measure this accurately. They say my pH is 6.8 and GH is high. The API "test tube" tests give me results that make more sense. I still use the strips as a quick check, with the idea that if there is a huge change I'll know it quickly, but I don't consider the results "accurate."

A good summary of these issues is here:

 

[GinaSue]

Thank you for this info. It’s  very helpful. My tank is lightly stocked but heavily planted. I will take this KH under consideration and maybe do a water change once a month. I do watch Girl Talks Fish and will watch this one again. I look forward to getting my pH monitor. I’m enjoying the science of water keeping much more than I did in my 20’s 

[Rube_Goldfish]

On 1/12/2023 at 12:12 PM, GinaSue said:

Thank your Rube_Goldfish and everyone who responded to my inquiry.  I appreciate the information on oxygen depletion. I am learning a lot and always open to learning more. I have ordered a digital pH tester to hopefully add some clarity.  😉

Up until I'd read the part on A Brief History of Prime (you know, two days ago) I would have said the same thing about the oxygen depletion!

[RennjiDK]

If you want to actually test ph, you'll need actual ph testing equipment. I'd recommend a Hanna Checker (not the pen). ph is primarily affected by the amount of dissolved Co2 present in the water, not substrate though it can add some buffering potential. If you really want to increase ph, run an airline from an outside air source and diffuse it into your tank.

[nabokovfan87]

On 1/11/2023 at 4:25 PM, GinaSue said:

There's a bit of corruption on this test.  Here's a video on how to make sure the tests are as clear as they can be for you.