CO2 Control with Fluval 3.0

[Ben Ellison]

I just recently added a fluval 3.0 48" I got from the co-op. And I'm quite happy with it. I am adding a second when I get paid and then plan to add the CO2 I have to that tank. In the past I have used a standard timer to control both the lights and the CO2 to avoid any complications and keep it simple. Now with the lights having the option of running on a timer set through the app I'm not 100% sure how I should control the CO2. In the past I have seen the timer get off on it's times I assume from power outages and such. And I'm a bit concerned about that. I also am considering a smart wifi plug that the coop sells if that would make my life easier. Does anyone have any thoughts or suggestions? I will also be using 2 48" fluval 3.0 when I start the CO2 will this be enough to run CO2?

 

 

[Apulo]

Personally I have found the WiFi smart plugs to be a lifesaver.

I have my CO2 solenoid on a smart plug with a timer set up in the associated app to turn it on two hours before the Fluval 3.0 starts it's program and turn it off an hour before the program ends.

I also have another smart plug to turn on an airstone an hour after the CO2 goes off and shut it off an hour before the CO2 goes on.

It's been working great for me.

I'm actually going to swap out the WiFi plugs for Zigbee based plugs soon so I can add them to my Homeassistant install.

Edited April 18, 2022 by Apulo
Added photo

[Mmiller2001]

I don't want to sound too negative, but have you looked to better light options? At the price you will pay for 2x48 inch fluval's, your price point puts you into the lower upper end of lights that are superior to 3.0's in almost every way. With direct experience, buying the 3.0's was one of my biggest/costly mistakes I made.

To answer your question, a smart plug is the route I would go as they will correct time when power outages occur. That said, the 3.0's will not correct for a power outage until you have opened the app and resynced the lights (yet another negative). 2x3.0's is plenty, but they will always cast a yellow tone over the tank as they use white diodes and do not have true reds 660nm diodes. At this point, paying a premium price for a light without true reds and truly RGB is a scam in my opinion. 

If you want to push CO2 hard, have the CO2 turn on 2 hours before lights on and off 1 hour before lights off.

Here is just one example of a single light that will out perform 2x3.0's in every way.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08XM6XFPN/ref=twister_B08XLRT4MD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

[Ben Ellison]

I will definitely consider other light ideas. The wifi plug definitely seems to solve the first problem. 

[KrazyJohn]

Hello,

For power outage I personally a Backup UPS, all my aquarium equipment is plugged in to it.

Hope this help,

[Ben Ellison]

That's a good idea. The tank I'm using this on is an experiment I'm doing into a planted sump tank. I wonder how long the return could run on a ups along with lights.

[KrazyJohn]

On 4/20/2022 at 7:07 AM, Ben Ellison said:

That's a good idea. The tank I'm using this on is an experiment I'm doing into a planted sump tank. I wonder how long the return could run on a ups along with lights.

It depends on the light really and on the power of the UPS you are using.

A pump doesn't require much power, so it could run days.

Mine is a tripp lite 1500VA/900W.

I will check it out tonight, I think the LCD display tells me how long it will run under full load !