Mmiller2001
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Posts posted by Mmiller2001
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On 4/22/2024 at 11:50 AM, Milliardo Peacecraft said:
@Mmiller2001 what sort of sry fertilizers are usable for an aquarium?
KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4, CaSO4. MgSO4 and a carbonate (optional K2CO3). Micro mixes come in several variates. They are all dirt cheap, last a long time and just need a set of small Teaspoons or gram scale.
You can dump them in dry or make your own solution. I’ve done both and recently make my own solution. It’s just too easy to squeeze a bottle and dump it in.
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On 4/21/2024 at 8:23 PM, Little Guys said:
Circled in blue.
Blue ones Kamaka, orange tale Basmani.
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On 4/20/2024 at 11:20 PM, gjcarew said:
Nice! Is that myrio roraima? I think it was cropped out of the photo so I missed it. That's a good orange plant. Golden myrio is great too, and a little less aggressive.
Sessiflora is a bit of a weed, but 53b is great for dutch tanks. Nice slow, even growth. I've never grown rotala orange juice but I find regular rotundifolia often turns a nice orange.
It’s in the holding tank. Should I swap it with the Furcata?
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On 4/21/2024 at 3:54 AM, reefhugger said:
Your tanks are amazing! Your comment about never being able to starve algae by removing nutrients is logical. I'm curious though...I use well water that, out ot the tap, is north of 10.0 ppm. I'm using the API test, and 10.0 ppm is as high as it measures. I've got good plant growth but always lots of algae of various types. I do weekly water changes with vacuuming detritis. I do need to be more regular about fertilizer. Is my attempt to remove some of the phosphate unreasonable since its native to the water itself? Any advise on how to deal with this is gratefully requested.
If the source water is high PO4, I’d find a fertilizer option that only adds N,K and traces. This can be challenging with liquid fertilizer, but using dry fertilizer is the way to go here.
What’s the NO3 out of your tap?
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On 4/20/2024 at 10:59 PM, Little Guys said:
What are the pink and purple fish?
Can you circle it or crop it?
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On 4/20/2024 at 10:54 PM, gjcarew said:
A little early to be throwing in the towel, isn't it?!
Plants are looking healthy, that's half the battle. I think replacing one of the reds with either a bright yellow or orange plant could be nice, like didiplis diandra or ammania pedicellata.
I like that you have lots of different "shapes" in your planting. It really leads the eye around the scape. Can't wait to see it grown in more!
Way early! Just venting my frustration. I think I’m taking the Furcata out. Got my hands on Sesifloria and some 52b and a few others. The only orange I have is Miro and I’ll check out your recommendation. Curious, is Rotala Orange Juice actually orange?
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On 4/20/2024 at 9:12 PM, Little Guys said:
Mmiller, your fish are gorgious. What are they?
It’s a mix of rainbows rasbora and lemon tetra. Dwarf neon, Basmani, Goyder river and Kamaka Rainbows.
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On 4/20/2024 at 6:10 PM, Evan said:
Yes, it's a planted tank. In addition to the phosphate remover I did some other stuff (trimmed the plants way, way too much) and completely threw off my balance.
You will never ever starve algae by reducing nutrients. You will only cause more algae by killing your plants. You need to get the phosogaurd out and start dosing the tank with a well balanced all in one or use dry fertilizer that can be tailored.
I would do a nice big water change and start dosing immediately. I’d keep up on weekly large water changes and dose immediately after the water changes. Keep this up while the plants grow back in. Once new growth has returned, remove the older leaves with algae.
Just to show you, I keep all my tanks at 10ppm PO4.
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Eheim 2217
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Is it a planted tank?
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On 4/19/2024 at 8:25 PM, Odd Duck said:
You are far too hard on yourself. I know it isn’t what you’re looking for but it’s still gorgeous. You always seem to manage to pull it together and I have complete faith you will again!
Thank you. Still have a lot of time left as well. Hopefully it comes together soon and I’m not up against the deadline.
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Tank update: not going well at all. At this rate, no AGA this year. It’s obviously early, but hashing out a layout isn’t going well.
Recent changes in dosing: Moved GH to about 6 degrees, Ca to 35ppm and lowered Mg to 5ppm. Reduced water changes to 50% while double dosing after water change and then 2 more doses over the week. Micros dosed 3 times a week.
Trip wall is going well and only the left side needs to be added.
I’m trying to use 2 Dutch streets but I’m not liking it so far. I do have a few plants just in the tank for future use making it look chaotic but some are in place. 5 more plants ordered and all green. Decisions will be made shortly whether to use 3 or 4 reds.
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On 4/15/2024 at 12:51 PM, Cjbear087 said:
Ah okay so there isn’t any problem with me missing a few eggs?? I’ve just gotta keep an eye on ammonia levels (which I do regularly anyway)?
You will never get them all. You'll repeat the treatment to kill the eggs that hatch before they create more eggs.
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On 4/15/2024 at 12:48 PM, Cjbear087 said:
Really?? I thought it was to get rid of the eggs in the substrate (levamisole doesn’t do anything to eggs)
You won't get them all and is why several treatments are need to clear the infection completely.
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The reason to vacuum is from potential ammonia spike from the decaying worms. It’s your choice but just be aware.
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On 4/15/2024 at 10:58 AM, drm315 said:
neutral to clear
You are fixated on this. When the test time period is over, it’s over. It wouldn’t matter if it turned hot pink.
pH fluctuation is not an indicator of stability, pH fluctuation is completely normal and is related to O2 and CO2 concentrations dissolved in the water. Nitrification plays a role here too as it’s a weak acid at the end result.
0 to 1dKH, and maintaining 0 to 1dKH is stable. This is the single biggest misinformation in the hobby that 0dKH is bad in some way. It’s not…period.
Do smaller water changes for while. Maybe once a month as well. Only do a change if it’s absolutely needed. Shrimp take a generation or 2 to become indestructible.
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Uh, well…I guess this happened. He was a big boy too.
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On 4/13/2024 at 11:37 AM, spokanejared said:
What are you using to monitor the ph like that?
Coralvue Hydros
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On 4/12/2024 at 5:50 PM, spokanejared said:
Ok I will work on that. I'm worried about my discus since I've been told they can be sensitive to fluctuations like that. I do keep up on my water changes and parameters and so far they are healthy so I guess if .8 isn't causing harm then I should be good...?
PH fluctuations do not harm fish. Keeping GH and KH stable is what matters. Here’s my pH profile for a week.
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On 4/12/2024 at 5:44 PM, spokanejared said:
Ok I checked my ph right before it turns on in the morning and it reads .8 difference degassed.
Get to a minimum of 1 and keep pushing. 1 to 1.5 is what you are looking for. Watch the fish while pushing beyond 1. 1.2 is good target.
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On 4/12/2024 at 12:30 PM, Static said:
Also, when only dosing Paracleanse, do I need to withhold food for a week?
No
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It’s flukes, paracleanse in my experience is no longer effective against flukes but is worth a try if you already have it. I would use this instead.
if you have plecos, don’t use the above and cross fingers for paracleanse to be effective. Prazipro is another option but like I mention, is no longer effective with resistance strains of flukes.
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On 4/10/2024 at 12:12 PM, spokanejared said:
I use one of those kits that uses baking soda and citric acid. I added it last month and have been slowly dialing it up since I don't want to rush into any changes too fast. I use the fluid checker to monitor my levels and from what I know if it's in the green it's good. I just use the diffuser that came with the kit and send the bubbles right up to the filters outflow to dispurse throughout the tank. My fluid checker is on the opposite side of the tank since I figured I would get a bad reading on the same side as the diffuser.
Lime green is what you are looking for. Checking pH is a better indicator and can be measured in real time.
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