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Mmiller2001

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Posts posted by Mmiller2001

  1. 1 minute ago, Liliana Araoz said:

    Well, little update. I finally have added a few corydoras and a betta to this ecosystem and holy remedy... little buggers are gone. Whether they are Planaria or Rhabdocoela, they are no more... or at least I can't see them LOL.

    Excellent!

  2. On 9/21/2020 at 9:25 AM, ange said:

    It's difficult to tell based on the size/res of your photo but I believe you may not have planaria. Rhabdocoela are a common aquarium flatworm and are a normal part of a healthy ecosystem. They look very similar to planaria and lack the pointed head region.

    Those do not look like Planaria. I agree.

  3. 1 minute ago, FriendlyLoach said:

    You probably know this, but if the PraziPro is clear or yellowish it has went bad. It will go bad during shipping if the temperature is wrong. Apparently it is common to have ineffective PraziPro. It should be pink, but no body told me what sort of pink it should be? Mine was clear/pink and I don't think it worked. 

    I'll check that, I didn't even pay attention to the color.

  4. 24 minutes ago, Cory said:

    Meds aren't really a more is better type of thing, it's usually a time thing. Think of meds you take as a human. you dont take all the pills day one. you take them over time so your body can fight along side the meds.  I personally just let prazi sit in the water for a couple weeks.

    So no second dose, even at the recommended amount?

  5. I must have a resistant parasite going on. TL|DR Fish went through QT with Trio, did a full round of ParaCleanse per directions on box and did a 5 day treatment of Ich-X. Something snuck through and Cory's started flashing again and now other fish have begun flashing. No visible signs of Ich or spots. I dosed PraziPro on the 19th. No real improvement to date. The 24th will be day 5, I plan to do my water change and dose PraziPro again. How hard of a dose can I go? I used 5ml per 20, in a 75Gallon. My total dose was 17.5ml to account for wood and sand.

    Thank you for any advice!

     

    Edit: I added Poly-fil to my canister, could this be causing a problem? This is the pure 100% Polyester bag, no flame retardant. 

  6. 4 hours ago, L0opz said:

    I've had a tank running for a few months now with some plants , snails , and fish. once I get a good ammount of algea I really want to get some shrimp ! I've done a lot of research but there's so many different kinds. my only requirement is any shrimp that could live in warmer water temperatures. I would really appreciate any recommendations ! 

    What fish are you trying to keep warmer?

  7. 2 minutes ago, Nataku said:

    Camallanus can be identified as one or more red/bright pink 'spikes' or very thin 'threads' protruding from the fish's anus. The key factor is the color, they will always be red/bright pink. And they are not always present 100% of the time even in an infected fish because they can pull themselves back up inside the fish. This is why I watch closely after the fish eats, because as the fish poops, they will usually be visible for a bit. The poop falls away from the fish, the camallanus worms do not.

    I do not have any good clear pictures on hand of camallanus but a quick Google search will show you exactly what you are looking for - beware, its pretty gruesome. What your gupoy has does not appears to be camallanus, wrong color and shape/texture.  I'd treat that with the med trio, its some other intestinal parasite. 

    Thank you. Does Paracleanse even work on Camallanus?

  8. 3 hours ago, TGK said:

    Corydoras have been in hospital tank with salt for about two days. Not seeing major improvements, white growths may have advanced a bit, but it's hard to tell. Two Corydoras now have had their fins almost entirely eroded off. 

     

    Advice? Do I up the salinity? Start adding in Erithromycin with the salt? 

    You might try this. They market it as "I don't know what disease is happening". Worth a shot if you can get it in time. https://www.seachem.com/sulfaplex.php

  9. 57 minutes ago, Nataku said:

    So my quarantine process is somewhat of a longer one, but I am just a hobbyist, not a store who needs to move product, so I take my time with new fish coming in.

    They go into the quarantine tank day one, and I observe. I'm  looking for spots, redness, swelling, damaged fins, etc etc. I dont feed the first day, just watch. Do I see something that indicates we have some kind of infection? Begin the med trio the second day.

    If I didn't  spot anything on the first day, the second day, I continue to watch and observe, and I give them their first meal.  Do they eat it? Do they spit it back out? Do they not show any interest? Is everyone eating or is someone getting left out? I watch later for poop, is there any? Whats it look like? Observe vents closely for the dreaded little red worm (camallanus). If stringy or otherwise abnormal poops happen? Begin med trio. Spot camallanus? Hold off on the med trio. Begin levamisole treatment. Make note to self that a week after second round of levamisole is completed to start the med trio because I am SO not playing around with camallanus and I figure if the fish had camallanus they've got other things hiding in there too.

    But if I don't observe anything abnormal? I just keep watching. And that's what I do, for three weeks. If nothing manifests in that time? Cool! Into the main tank they go. But if I spot anything in that time? Begin meds. After meds, observe for at least two weeks to make sure everyone is good. Good? Into main tank. Problems pop up? Treat with meds. And continue this cycle until I'm happy that the fish are free of whatever they came in with. Most fish make it through the quarantine time without issue and don't  need meds. But I've had some groups come in that have stayed in quarantune for two months or more because they're just riddled with issues.

    How do you determine camallanus? What are you looking for? Should I worry about this?

    PXL_20200916_231504962.jpg

  10. 30 minutes ago, Fadewood said:

    Dang, 7.4PH with all those tannins and wood in there? That's crazy. However I'm in the same boat, my water is almost 8 out of the tap. Takes a lot to get my water down to a lower PH. I've had cory's flash like this before, usually a water change fixes the problem, sometimes they just do it because they like the sand. I'm not sure. If it becomes excessive flashing, then you could do some salt in the tank and see if that helps ease things.

    At one point my KH dropped to 1 unexpectedly, and that dropped my pH to 6.8, which scared me. So now I keep my KH at 4 which holds that 7.4 7.3 well. 

    • Like 1
  11. Quick breakdown. These guys just came out of QT, bit longer than 3 weeks. 

    Week 1: Med trio

    Week 2: Gills red and flashing, dosed Paracleanse per box direction.

    Week 3: Ich X for 5 days straight.

    Plus a few days, saw no flashing and added to main display.

     

    Do Cory's just do this or I did I not get all of what was happening back in QT? It will be impossible to remove them without stressing the whole tank (75G, 7.4pH, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate, 5 GH, 4KH)

    Thanks for looking.

    Cory-Scratch.gif

  12. Kinda depends because your buffering will determine the pH. Basically, you may have a pH change when the water was added and then have it buffered to another pH some time later.

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