Kyle murfitt
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Posts posted by Kyle murfitt
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On 8/8/2021 at 2:14 PM, Colu said:
Sounds like a well thought out plan good luck with fry
Thanks. Not expecting to yield a whole lot from my fist attempt but it'll def be a learning experience
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So I have a yellow lab that's holding and wanted to get her own tank setup so maybe I can get a few fry out of the deal.. found a 20 gallon for 30 bucks , stand without the top for 20.
Used substrate, 50% water from original tank, sword In moss ball, vallisneria, small crypt, two struggling anubias and coco hut from the old tank. Dosed some ammonia fix, a little easy green and iron.
Fluval nano 7000k light ( had to build a custom stand for it ,being made for a rimless tank it didn't fit on mine ) . An old hob filter ( being replaced or used along with a new ACO medium sponge filter )
Drilled 1/4 " holes in fake decor to give the fry some spots to hide.
Now... let's see if I can get momma transfered in a few days and get some babies
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On 8/8/2021 at 9:11 AM, lefty o said:
id be cautious with that stuff that says flame resistant on it. usually a good indication it has been chemically treated.
I just noticed that too but right under there is a box checked that says not fr material . If ya zoom on the pic think you can kind of see it
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On 8/7/2021 at 10:05 PM, Guppysnail said:
No I think I said it backwards. 20/30 are good inside hob or can fine will clog inside and overflow hob.
Got ya thanks!
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On 8/7/2021 at 9:54 PM, Guppysnail said:
Yeah inside your 20/30 would be great but in hobs you will clog up and overflow in a blink.(with fine) On the intake you can see it starts to suck in tight but won’t overflow just slow the flow
20/30? Sorry a little confused.. so your saying in the canister the foam pad that's close to 20 or 30 ppi will work fine. But the course pad on the left of the pic will clog and overflow a hob filter?
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On 8/7/2021 at 9:46 PM, Guppysnail said:
Poly foam for fry tanks I have a love hate with. They catch all the superfine baby food and keeps the water looking crisp so I love it. They catch all the super fine baby food and clog quickly and mercilessly so I hate it. I usually rubber band it around the intake instead of putting it inside so I can just pull it and replace it. Once I’m out of fine powder food stage I stick it as last layer in a hob or just stop using it.
Wooooord. Thanks ! I've also got a aco sponge filter coming in but wanted to get the HOB rolling to get things happening
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Did a hobby lobby run ton today and found this stuff. Both 100 percent polyester. One on the right going to use for the new fry tank I'm filtering out with a hob and the left is close to 20 or 30 ppi so was going to use in the magniflow 360. Yes , no , maybe so ???
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Ohhhh definitely. My first attempt at keeping some fry around so gonna document it. My furemouths used to always spawn but I'd either give them away or the parents got free food lol. Thanks for the info
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I've got a yellow lab mbuna holding for a few days now. Got a cheap 20 gallon tank I'm setting up with spare plants and filters. Going to be in an outdoors screened patio , in tx so it's going to be warm ( if that's a issue lmk ) . Any advice on dos and don'ts? Cycle issues? Will be putting some gravel, water and rock from 55 gallon in there. And anything else that is a must please share . Thanks yall
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On 8/1/2021 at 2:27 PM, DebSills said:
you shouldn't need carbon unless you are trying to get something specific out of your water (ex. meds) - I have a fluval canister and usually have the sponge then fine filter pad and the other two trays are full of bio-media
On 8/1/2021 at 2:35 PM, Mmiller2001 said:Probably, do half then a few weeks do the remaining or next filter cleaning. The carbon can be removed any time.
Appreciate the info
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Thanks. Will I crash my cycle on the tank if I remove a bunch of stuff from the filter and replace with new media?
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On 8/1/2021 at 2:19 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
If the filter has a compartment for carbon, I'd fill that with Matrix as well.
So no carbon needed at all?
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Any suggestions on canister filter setup? I've got. Magnaflow 360 and am using the stock bioballs. Carbon bags and foam pads. Anyone have any secrets or is the stock stuff all ya need?
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Thanks for all the great info@Seattle_Aquarist
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On 7/26/2021 at 11:58 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:
I'm in Texas, between Houston and Galveston. Ph is 7.4-7.8 nitrates 10ppm nitrites 0ppm ammonia 0.25 or less
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Thinking nitrogen but ,if it's just melt or another deficiency please haaaalp! Have root tabs. Have been dpsing easy green twice a week 5 pumps for 55 gallon. Have also used easy iron once a week. Ammonia is good. Nitrites are 0 ppm . nitrates are 10 ppm. The vallisneria and one of my newer swords are starting to show a little growth. But radican swords and anubias are yellowing/ whitening and anubias is curling. Thanks
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On 7/19/2021 at 8:05 AM, Phantom240 said:
Looking at the pics of your plants, it looks to me like your anubias is suffering from a potential deficiency of iron or magnesium causing foliage to yellow while the veins remain green. The brown gunk could just be mulm, or with the age of your tank, more than likely a brown diatom bloom which is normal in the early stages of an aquarium's life. I forgot if you mentioned in your other post, but what light are you using?
Its a 48" double bulb fixture with t5 bulbs. I've got two fluval planted tank 18000 k bulbs in it. I thought about the brown algae but its only on the plants that it's happening. The rest of the tank and glass hardly ever gets algae build up
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On 7/18/2021 at 11:41 AM, Patrick_G said:
It looks like the Anubias has some black algae on the margins and maybe some light brown diatom algae. They are very slow growers and prefer low light. It looks like you might have them to close to the light. As a first step I would move them lower. When you do that you can also manually remove some of the algae with a soft toothbrush.
How old is the tank? It’s not unusual to get some algae in the beginning. A shorter light cycle and a clean up crew will help a lot. As the plants start growing in they’ll outcompete the algae.Plant has been going about 3 months. Think I messed up my cycle in month one so trying to catch up now . Thanks for the info
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Added the anubias ( glued to wood ) , vallisneria ( planted) , radican sword and Amazon sword ( planted ) . Root tabs , ferts. Water parameters are good. Every time I add new plants the roots get this gunky buildup along with the leaves get the same thing and darker spots. Any ideas ?
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Changed both bulbs to daylight white 18,000k fluval. Checked again and there's still more than .25 ppm ammonia. Going to do another small water change tonight
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On 7/10/2021 at 12:07 PM, Phantom240 said:
And you took the HOB out of the tank when you swapped filters, yeah? If so, then essentially what you did was almost completely restart your cycle, by removing the colonies of beneficial bacteria that had established in your old filter. In the future, if you want to swap filters, the best thing to do would be take media from your old filter and add it to the new one, or leave both filters running simultaneously for a couple months to make sure the bacteria have a chance to establish themselves in the new filter. Sounds like you're on the right track though!
I left the hob on for almost two weeks , and 5hen used the filters as part of the new media for the canister. Still not enough to hold the cycle though I'm guessing. Time to test and wait. Great info man thanks again
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On 7/10/2021 at 8:55 AM, Phantom240 said:
Some tanks take longer to cycle than others, as there are a lot of variables, fish load being one of them. Plecos and cichlids tend to have heavier bioloads than other species, so that will require more beneficial bacteria to turn their waste from ammonia to nitrite, then nitrite to nitrate. The way to tell that your bacteria colonies can handle the bioload is by monitoring your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the water column. As bacteria colonize, they'll begin turning ammonia into nitrite, and further from nitrite into nitrate. When you test your water (and I recommend daily at the moment) and have 0 ammonia and 0 nitrite, and they're being converted to nitrate, that's when your tank is "cycled". It takes a VERY long time for it to mature and become "seasoned", but cycling is the most important part of a tanks ecosystem.
What kind of filter is on your tank?Thanks again. And I was originally using a hob but switched to a magnaflow 360 and it's been going about a month and a half
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On 7/9/2021 at 10:35 PM, Phantom240 said:
1) Is your tank cycled? You should have exactly 0 ammonia when testing. Your nitrates are a little low, but I think that's only a minor issue.
2) 54w 48", so I assume T8 bulbs? Get rid of the blue bulb, go with a daylight white instead. Regardless, that's going to be pretty low light at the substrate in a 55gal
3) How long have the plants been in your tank? If they're fairly new, they tend to die back and then regrow as they get acclimated to their new environment.
Not trying to be short or rude, just trying to get to the nitty gritty of the situation.Not short or rude at all. I'll take all the blunt advice I can get lol. Tank has been going for 3 months now so assuming it is cycled. Have watched videos about cycled tanks and seems like what I've had going should be ok, if there's a for sure way to be able to tell I'd love to know.. Have done 30 percent water changes probably 6 times since starting the tank and try to allow natural bacteria to stick. Thanks for the info! Going to pop in the other white bulb tomorrow
Mbuna Fry tank setup
in Photos, Videos & Journals
Posted · Edited by Kyle murfitt
24 hour update: chucked a snail in there to clear some debris
Water parameters
5 hours after filter running :
ammonia- 1.0 ppm. Nitrate- 5.0ppm. Nitrite- 0.25ppm. Ph-7.8
24 hours after :
ammonia- 0.75. Nitrate-5.0ppm. Nitrite- 1.0ppm . Ph- 7.8