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Posts posted by Kyle murfitt
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On 10/25/2021 at 9:21 PM, Guppysnail said:
My cats won’t touch the pothos in my tanks but do try for my potted pothos. I had to put them on top of kitchen cabinets
My cats turn into Tasmanian devils from 10-3 am every night. Can't trust em
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@GuppysnailThank ya! I've got pathos on my patio tank and am starting to see that the roots are growing but there's some deficiency getting the leaves. I've got 3 cats inside though so don't want to get them sick
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Sooo just added some Wisteria to the 55. Have been dealing with some bba so hoping more plants in the system may help along with h2o2 dosing. Any advice on growing it ??? My tank seems to only like growing vallisneria and a sword or two so trying to find more species . Thanks !
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On 10/25/2021 at 6:27 AM, Atitagain said:
Congrats, how many? Looks like their nice and healthy.
9 for the first batch of fry from the yellow lab mom. She had more when I was out of town last month but they turned into fish food by the time I was home lol
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On 10/22/2021 at 3:49 AM, Fish Folk said:
You can breed Mikrogeophagus ramirezi successfully in a 10 gallon aquarium. However, to grant them a full and satisfying life, I would recommend a 20 gallon long. I suppose a species-only 16 gallon tank could work. I have found that mine appreciate regular water changes, quality foods, planted tank, and warm temperatures - above 80-degrees Fahrenheit.
One of the more exciting projects we did was breed a bunch, and populate a 55 gallon Ram Colony. My son and I made this video a few years ago...
One of the most satisfying projects with Rams we did was cross Electric Blue Rams with Golden Rams, and work through a couple generations until we got some spectacular Orange / Blue color forms. Here was the first installment in that video series...
By the end, we had a "Gold Rush" growing out in a 20 gallon tall...
To appreciate these in a larger community context, you can check out this video where a few of the Gold Rams were added to a larger Discus + Threadfin Acara Tank...
Love the videos again man. When you pull the rocks with eggs on them why are you adding the half ml of h2o2 to the separation tank??
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On 10/20/2021 at 4:59 PM, Colu said:
I would cut the light cycle to 8hr a day and spot treat the BBA with seachems flourish excel or co-op's easy carbon
Thank you. You agree it looks like bba?
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This seems to be the only algae I struggle with In my 55, I trim most leaves that get a large buildup. The Bacopa has been the biggest struggle since putting into the tank.
Just switched to a plamted plus 48" but had the same issue before with the t5 fixture. 9 hour light cycle and the new light maxes out at 50%
Parameters.
Ammonia. 0-0.5
Nitrates. 5 ppm
Nitrites . 0
Ph. 7.4
Any help or recommendations appreciate. Thanks
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Why just one ??
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Soooo setting up a new 30 gallon soon. Want it to be heavily planted and not do my normal mbuna or larger cichlids. I really like apistos and pelvichromis or Kribs, but don't know a whole lit about them. Any advice , pros and cons , or other recommendations for smaller species I could stock this tank with???? Thanks everyone
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On 10/13/2021 at 5:32 PM, Zenzo said:
Well, if they are part zebra and part yellow lab, I would say that the dark coloration is some form of OB showing. Very likely that either of the parents have something mixed in them too. Cool little fish though!
Sweeeeeet. Thanks for the info , and digging your gym and fishroom setup!
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On 10/13/2021 at 4:23 PM, Fish Folk said:
Yep. That’s a common cross. Not an OB, and depending on your African Cichlid community, generally not sought out. We got disqualified for submitting this pairing for BAP…
But it was fun! And my LFS wanted them.
Love the videos! My 5 year old daughter is my water testing buddy lol. I'd love to have some breed specific stuff going , maybe in the future when I get more tanks
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On 10/13/2021 at 5:13 PM, Zenzo said:
Could be an OB. Or, it could be some genetic coloration variation. What other mbuna do you have in the tank?
Mom is a yellow lab and dad is a orange/red zebra . Only breeders I've seen in my tank . but there's also red top cobalt, blue dolphin, and yellow tail acei
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On 10/13/2021 at 3:19 PM, Fish Folk said:
Once you cross them, they shoot out all sorts of colors. Probably not technically a true OB.
Has it always presented black, or only recently? It could be a young male “bearding.”
Yep since he or she was rice sized it had black down its back. Mom is a yellow lab and dad is an orange zebra so there's a few oddball colors in the batch of babies
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My runt of the litter has a black Mohawk, think he'll be an ob or just going to have a black back on him??
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My runt of the litter has a black Mohawk, think he'll be an ob or just going to have a black back on him??
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On 10/12/2021 at 4:58 PM, Fish Folk said:
Congratulations! Love seeing little Mbunas grow and thrive. My son got it in his head to breed Auratus a few years ago. Kind of intense fish! But beautiful in their own right. Here’s the video of his work…
That's awesome!! And that female really put out some fry for her first batch! I got 10 from my first and she had more in the main tank while I was out of town, have only found 4 or so hiding amongst the other cichlids
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On 9/13/2021 at 9:16 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
That looks more like Staghorn and BBA.
I'll look into staghorn fixes , I've never seen the big blackbeard blooms though like I've seen in pictures and videos. Like I said when a leaf gets bad it'll black it out almost and it's just a slimy dark green or black layer across the leaf
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On 9/13/2021 at 2:02 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
As mentioned above, I would drop your photoperiod to 8 hours or drop overall intensity some. But I would go 8 hours.
Wait 3 weeks, if no improvement, start increasing PO4. Seachem has a line of nutrients, but expensive. The most precise and cost effective fertilizer is dry KH2PO4.
1ppm increase per week is where I would start. You could buy a test kit, but that's an additional cost.
I would also look at the overall picture of what you are dosing. Begin tracking your numbers and try to maintain ratios that work well within well maintained tanks.
Here are some ratios I would try as these people really know how to grow impressive plants.
Here's some pics for reference also, already trimmed the bad ones.
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On 9/13/2021 at 2:02 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
As mentioned above, I would drop your photoperiod to 8 hours or drop overall intensity some. But I would go 8 hours.
Wait 3 weeks, if no improvement, start increasing PO4. Seachem has a line of nutrients, but expensive. The most precise and cost effective fertilizer is dry KH2PO4.
1ppm increase per week is where I would start. You could buy a test kit, but that's an additional cost.
I would also look at the overall picture of what you are dosing. Begin tracking your numbers and try to maintain ratios that work well within well maintained tanks.
Here are some ratios I would try as these people really know how to grow impressive plants.
That chart is gonna take me a minute to break it down lol. But super informative and thanks for the info. Time to start logging
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On 9/12/2021 at 10:25 PM, eatyourpeas said:
What is the lighting on these tanks?
The 55 is two t5 10000k fluval bulbs. 10 hour period. And the 20 is a fluval nano wing, running at 30% power and a custom setting I found on another thread. Also 10 hours.
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So I've struggled with green spot algae since starting up my 55 ( 8 months ago ) and now my 20 gallon fry tank ( 2 months ) is doing the same. Mainly my sword plants, but almost all my plants will start to get a good bit of green spot then it'll consume whole leaves. I've trimmed the leaves back, do weekly dosing of easy green and iron , water parameters are good. Can't figure it out
Read an article about if your phosphates are at 0 then that could be the issue. Honestly don't know much about phosphates and their purpose in the tank so was wondering if someone could explain, and recommend any good fixes for green spot, phosphates dosing. Any info is appreciated. Thanks
Wisteria questions
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
@Gator thanks!