anewbie
-
Posts
2,681 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by anewbie
-
-
Slightly off topic but that royal pleco will get larger than a 10 gallon aquarium; even as a small fish it should be in a larger aquarium. As for snail - dosn't matter to it.
Oh one other thing this particular species is a *big* wood eater and you have no wood. Without wood (soft wood); it will have a short life.
If the store knew you had a 10 gallon aquarium; i'd give them a 0 star rating and look for a better store. I mean there are some border line cases here but this is one fish that needs a large aquarium. How large - i mean by itself you could keep it in a 4 foot aquarium i guess but i'd go for a 6 foot 120 or larger. My flash pleco (L204) are only 6 inches and keeping one in a lightly stocked 29 works well but when i moved i added two 397 while i sorted things out and that was a big mistake; everyone got sick and there were a few deaths. Ended up throwing them into a 120 to keep them alive.
-
It isn't just about water quality it is also about stress. For a 10 gallon - forget pleco - even a clown pleco is really pushing it. There is a minature snowball (forget the species name) that is 2.5 inches but whatever. Don't get me wrong i use to overstock all my aquariums but now that i know better i can see the difference in a light stocking with regards to fish health.
Btw shrimp do really well in a 10 gallon.
-
A 10 is a bit small as it doesn't provide much room for them to swim; they do better in a 20 long or 29. There is a smaller kuhli like loach call shelfordi (pangio shelfordii) that works better in a 10. If you do get them they prefer very soft substrate (as do kuhli); for digging.
-
deleted. Lennie said it better.
-
1
-
-
One wet cowboy:
-
1
-
3
-
-
Lot of work - i was reading the frys need high humidity pocket above their tank to allow their organ to develop properly. It wasn't really about imbellis but rather con something or other - another wild betta like fish but i presume it is the same. Also they (older juvi and adults) love to jump so you need an air pocket with a lid. Hum.
-
1
-
-
Are the pygmy by themselves or in a community aquarium. Some fishes like female dwarf cichild will frequently go for the eye of cory to remove them from their territory.
-
You can also ask sellers on ebay if they will sell a single male. A lot depends on if they have extra females. online stores tend to be less flexible than individuals.
-
2
-
-
In my opinion the aquarium is over populated. You don't need high nitrate to grow plants; my personal experience is plants do just fine with 0-5 nitrate; this aquarium is 3 years old - my tap has a bit of mineral (I don't use fertlizer); it has 5 or 6 a. pucallpaensis and a bunch of shrimp. I throw away a lot of hornworth every 3 to 5 weeks.
As long as you are not injecting co2 i would not worry about nitrate level being too low. Everyone (fish) would appreciate low nitrate. If your water is extremely soft you might need a bit of fertilizer but i would be conservative there.
As to your problem the tank is definitely over populated if most of the fishes are adults but if you do 2 or 3 large weekly water change it might manage. As for the current disease one of the ick meds per direction for 3 days but be religious on those water changes. You can use salt but it will damage your plants - otherwise salt is quite effective but if you use too much it can harm the fish - ALSO - you have to be a bit careful how fast you change the density of the water (both adding and removing); my understanding is when you add it you want to add it all at once (per require dosage) because that shock helps the fish fight the disease but when you remove it you need to do it very gradual. As i noted after having salt causing havok to my plants i've stopped using it as a cure but it certainly did an effective job on the disease. Also if only a few of the fishes are sick you can move them to a 5 gallon pail with sponge filter and treat them there (having a spare heater also helps).
-
I want to stress in my experience your aquarium is way over populated if the fishes are adults. If they are still growing out it might work depending on actual age of the fishes but long term it really doesn't work well even with large bi-weekly water changes.
-
On 1/21/2024 at 6:39 PM, SupersoNick95 said:
I’m sure he pokes at the apistos here and there but I’ve never seen it. I doubt that’d be stressing him out to the point of an Ich outbreak. I have a hard time keeping nitrates high for my plants. Water quality is always great. I don’t think it’s overpopulated tbh.
How many cory and what species ?
-
On 1/21/2024 at 6:27 PM, SupersoNick95 said:
It’s a 20 long, 20 rummies and only the sole apisto. I don’t like breeding pairs in a community because they get really stressed. My water parameters are excellent. Which is why this is so frustrating. I’ve noticed apistos have given me lots of issues. I rarely ever get fish deaths and every apisto I’ve had has died prematurely. The rummies are very healthy, eating normally and the Ich x has seemed to held get rich of their flashing. They are nicely colored up as well so idk what could be stressing out the apisto.
How many cory? and single male apisto are still territorial and i would expect him to poke at the cory from time to time. Anyway if your rummy are adults without the cory and apisto the tank is already a bit over populated though probably manageable.
-
To be honest; i usually find it happens when the water quality is poor. what size is your aquarium and exact population? rummy are normally in large aquarium (48 inches or longer) and large schools - at least 8; same for cory - apisto pairs or trio never do well with cory (lots of stress). Why is this important - stressful fishes get sick. Been through this multiple times this year - large water changes 2 or 3 times a week; thin the population; a bit of rid ick or simliar (kordon, or Hikari) for 2 or 3 days (both recommend 30% or larger water changes between usage.
Salt can also be used with great success and in many ways i prefer salt but it will do short and long term damage to most plants so i've stopped using salt as a treatment in a planted aquarium.
To be honest i can never tell if the med or large water changes are curing the issue - the thing is that healthy fish develop a slim layer (why you should never touch them) that help protect them from these icky things.
-
In all honesty as the aquarium age it will vanish; though having a nerite snail is ok but if you get a female it will leave little white dots everywhere. diatom usually occur due to silica in new substrate and as it is consumed the diatom will die out.
-
1
-
-
Cryptocoryne Pontederiifolia Red Lips grown emersed:
-
1
-
-
Most species of apistogramma are not pair bonding. The male has a region he claims and will breed with any female who enters his domain; however if a female is in his domain and does not wish to breed he will chase her away. This is why they can't be kept in a small aquarium and need a lot of hiding places. Leaf littler makes excellent hiding places since they can hide under leaves. macmasteri are such a non-pair bonding species though they are not as aggressive as some other species.
Your aquarium looks like a 29 is this the case?
Most pair bonding species come from nijjensi complex with panduro and nijjensi being two members. However in this case the pairs are not always for life and they can break up also females can be very picky about which male she will breed with - trio of these species never work long term but this is unrelated to your issue.
-
On 1/17/2024 at 8:37 AM, Odd Duck said:
Wood can be very frustrating. I’ve had wood float after having it in water over a year. I have this story documented in my 100 G nanofish tank link. If wood doesn’t sink within a month now, I just screw it down to slate. I’m over that whole “destroy my plantings and need to redo it” nonsense.
Yea - i have a piece of wood (malyasian?) that refuses to sink after a month. I ended up putting it under a rock 😉
For today i'm in a whiny mood since i can't go anywhere (snowed in; more precisely i live at the top of a very steep road they don't salt nor plow).
-
1
-
1
-
-
My blackwater aquarium - ph around 5.3/ec 26:
-
Behind them i'm growing aquatic plants emerrsed:
-
2
-
2
-
-
bloodworm bad; flluval bug bites great.
-
1
-
-
Probably lack of nutrients; i always fed mine root tabs and strong light. Of course these days I cheat and grow it like this;
-
2
-
-
Yea those females can be nasty; you have to be careful because they sort of 'know' just where to hit another fish to kill it. People have tried breeding borelli in 15 and 20 high aquariums nad have reported the female one shot killing the male even though they are relatively passive species. Trifs are said to be quite aggressive esp m/f.
-
1
-
-
Apistogramma is a genus not a species and different species behave differently. Some are polygamous; some are pair forming; different species have different aggression level and domestic breeds have colouring issues; so some additional details would be helpful. I.e, adding a 2nd female to an aquarium with pair forming species isn't a great thing; she might survive and the male might be willing to breed with her but the other female will have a enhance level of aggression towards her. For polygamous species she will probably find a nice hiding place; some species are quite docile and there is not so much aggression.
The issue with domestic bred species is the ability to signal by colour change is frequently lost; this is esp true of macs where female look nearly identical to male.
You do have a picture but i'm not great at identifying females though she looks a little similar a species i have she is different.
btw a few more leaves would be helpful as my bitaeniata frequently hide under leaves when chased.
-
1
-
-
On 1/8/2024 at 5:55 PM, Colu said:
I would treat with kanaplex if it's only affecting the fins of your Cory's
I ended up treating with kanaplex (day 1) and rid ick (day 1 and day 3); day 4 (today) I did a 60% water change. As far as i can tell that solved the issue but am watching every day. The two remaining blue-keri perk up in 24 hours and i'll watch to see if their fins regrow. I did have two blue keri die and 1 ember. I kind of was hopeful that clean water would solve the issue which is why i waited so long to treat them (approx 3 weeks). Probably should have treated them sooner. Not happy about the that ember dying; the keri are very very old and i mostly just keep them because well i have that obligation. Hum. rid ick (blue methane + ??) seems to be very effective at curing epistylis.
-
I am currently waiting for the following books to have something to read:
stone door
The winds of winter
The navigator children
Light Bringer (i think i read this); and red god.
--
It is hard to find good stuff to read; esp when some of these series take 20+ years.
-
1
-
-
On 1/9/2024 at 11:33 PM, Seattle_Aquarist said:
Per the Center for Disease Control:
"Cyanobacteria and cyanotoxins can harm fish and other aquatic animals in several ways. The toxins may directly kill the animals. When a harmful algal bloom caused by cyanobacteria decomposes, it can use up the oxygen in a body of water."That is why water utilities try very, very hard to source water where there is not cyanobacteria - it's not good for our health either.
Ok. So if it gets much worse i'll treat with chemclean. Probably the same active ingrediant as dr. tim.
Yet another question; a 'sister aquarium' that was setup around the same time with the same substrate is not having any issues - one key difference is that aquarium has tap water (ec around 240 - gh 6); this aquarium i've been slowly softening with ro water per water change so it is much softer - with lower gh - around ec 120; gh 2ish).
So basically the aquarium being impacted has less nutrients than the one htat is fine... it might be unrelated to what actually triggered the cyano but maybe it will ring a bell?
(Also the fish density in the other aquarium is approx 2x this aquarium).
-
On 1/8/2024 at 5:50 PM, Colu said:
If it's spreading to the body it can kill very quickly you want to treat with a combination of kanaplex and jungal fungus clear fizz tabs containing nitrofurazone following this treatment plan for more severe bacterial infections as most bacterial infections in are gram negative the combination of two medication I recommended are very effective
If not spreading to the body what do you recommend? My primary concern are the cory eques which show no body infection; i could care less about the 3 keri tetra so my hope is something mild that will protect the eques and ember tetra (which also show no sign of rot).
Apistogramma Agassizii Fire Red
in General Discussion
Posted
I'd be a bit worried about mixing a. agassizii with pea puffers. Even a solo male can be territorial and if the puffer spends a lot of time near the bottom (hunting snails); there can be some conflicts with the a. agassizii poking at it. This of course create stress between the fishes with can lead to bad health. There is a chance things will work out esp if you have the puffers in the tank first but i can't predict these things. Every fish is different. As for the puffer no clue - don't know diddly about them so don't know if they understand territories or how they would react.