anewbie
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Posts posted by anewbie
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On 2/15/2024 at 5:36 PM, nabokovfan87 said:
parameters should be good. The best thing to do is an off-gas test now. Your KH is pretty similar to mine, 3-4 vs. 5, which means pH should be pretty low depending on things like oxygenation. It'll be interesting to see what the pH is after 24 hours. Your GH is close to 2x your KH, which is great for plants as well. The Corydoras don't mind GH values being high at all.
With a kh of 5 his ph won't be low - i'd presume it will be mid 7's; i tend to think of low as 5ish.
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On 2/14/2024 at 8:18 PM, Katherine said:
Me too. I currently have 6 and previously had 2 others and I've never had eggs. I wonder if it's somehow related to water conditions as well? 8 males and no females seems ridiculously unlikely.
I found as my female nerite got older she laid less eggs; when young it as annoying as annoying can be. Bless her heart she lived to be 4.
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Can the wifi version send you a warning if the water gets cold (heater fails?); if not sounds like a useless gimick.
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It seems there is at least one version that will raise an alarm but i'm not sure if the alarm is only with the unit or if it will send an alert to your phone.
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There is at least one model that will send the alert to your phone so that might be useful.
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gold nuggets get large - around 10 inches; there are other aspects that make me think it is not one of the various gold nugget species - another is they require 84+ temp at lower temp it would die pretty quickly. Maybe L-136 - they grow to 4 inches but pictures suggest a stronger density of dots - there are variance of them l136a, l136b, ...do they have white on the belly ? There are many pleco with a similar look; there are also some bns with white and gold dots and your pleco is not so disimilar to a female bn.
If you do post on planetcatfish you are going ot want a sharp picture of the belly as well as the side - also post what you learn here 😉
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A few options:
shrimps and 6 or 7 ember tetra
dario dario (require live food)
pair of a. pucallpaensis
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shrimps and pangio sheffordi and 6 ember tetra.
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All of the above would prefer fine substrate - this is my ugly 10; strongly recommend you stuff yours with plants if you like natural plant look.
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Shrimps are good but if you have live bears and don't feed them much they will eat more algae and whatever than anything else - of course with a 10 gallon aquarium you really can't keep much to begin with - so my recommendation would depend on what-else is in the aquarium. If your stocking is shrimp friendly then i'd go with shrimp since they will have minimal impact on bio-load HOWEVER given that you are asking this question - if you are not experienced you might want to take it slow as shrimps can be frustrating under the wrong conditions.
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Your gh and kh match mine; never had a tank 'crash' though i think something else is happening. Also 1.0 ppm would kill those cory in a day. I never use carbon - consider the stuff a waste. Most of my aquariums just have sponges though I dont' see mention of the size; the limit of sponges is creating enough current for larger aquariums to provide adequate filtration.
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On 2/14/2024 at 2:48 PM, xXInkedPhoenixX said:
Yes, and it will be a learning curve for me since I've never used one. We're not going to get too stupid with the plants but will have them. What do you find is clogging the socks so much?
Should be fully accessible, Intrepid Partner is making the doors removable.
In my case an algae film formed on the surface of the 600 (attached is old picture). I cleared it up using power heads - which have since been removed for a couple of months. It hasn't re-appeared but i'm thinking there is some algae in the water - the 550 on the other side of the room - i only have to clean once every 4 or so weeks - it is hard to clean since the particles are very small (fish waste).
The date on that picture was Nov 30th - i have a thread somewhere here - this forum search option is painful - anyway i think it was totally clear by end of Dec or so - but i suspect invisible particles are still in the water. Anyway in a couple of weeks i'm going to replace that sump with a sponges in a 40B - it will be a very painful project but it will do two things:
I *hope* be easier to clean and lower the sump so it is easier to get in there - their sock tubs are extra high so gravity and flow the water into the media - this sort of gives a wet/dry effect on the bio media (very efficient) but increases the height of the sock tub (you want to make sure your stand is tall enough for you to easily get into the sock tub). In my case the aquarium is 24 inches high and if i had made the stand any higher i'd need a stool to feed the fishes - something i didn't want - anyway i find getting into the tub a royal pain on the three tanks that are 24 inches - the ones that were 18 inches high i made the stand taller so it is less of an issue.
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rio ampiacu I believe is a catch location not a species; i think vaguely this was posted on another forum - the guess was that you had two species cockatoo and ortegai and both can be rather violent - i.e, with potentially 3 males and 3 females you will likely end up with 1 male and 1 female or less depending on exact species and m/f combination. Also tetra will likely eat frys if they were to breed. I associate 'purple' with ortegai - lovely fish if that is what you actually own but certainly in both threads there is a lacking of details to identify the exact species. If they are the purple cf ortegai they really deserve better with regards to a breeding setup as they are not overly common and an extremely lovely fish. I'd be less excited if they are a cockatoo species both in terms of behavior and looks.
Also be aware both of these species do not pair - the male and females will never be 'buddies' and there will be periods of non-harmony among them hence the need for a spacious aquarium with lots of hiding locations. Last but least if these are wc and the named species they are going to prefer acidic water that is not too hard. cockatoo are more of a clear or white water species and minerals are less of an issue. I'm less familiar with the various species of ortegai but i vaguely believe they are a blackwater species.
Also you do not want to keep either species with cory. The cory wont' respect their territories which will create a lot of stress and it is not uncommon if a breeding female plucks out the eyes of the cory.
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On 2/11/2024 at 8:14 PM, purpledantastic said:
Thanks for your response. It looks like I need to get a reliable test kit for gh and kh then. I did just measure it with the test strips again (3 times) and got 180 for GH and 120 for KH. I compared that to my city's current water report which had things a bit lower at GH of 125 and KH of 103. I just reread the ACO post about ph, gh, and kh and it looks like I'm in a good hardness range for the most part, but I'm not sure why ph wouldn't matter? I know it's more important to have stable parameters than chase ph so my goal would be to try to slowly acclimate them to my higher ph, not to try to maintain a lower ph for the long haul. I've been looking into peat moss or sphagnum moss or mixing in RODI water as a more natural option. But if ph really isn't important then even better - I'd just like to understand it a bit more.
No matter what you do ph will flucutate during the day from co2 gas exchange esp if you have plants. This is normal. The fuctuation itself isn't a problem though as i mention at suffiicently low and high level the type of bacteria will change which can be an issue depending on species. However kh/gh doesn't fluctuate much in a 24 hour period (unless something leaches); they do change longer term but much slower in general.
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Ph is less important than water hardness; though if they have always been kept in acidic water there might be bacteria in higher ph water they have no resistance.
I would not use products like sachem regulator. It just isn't the right long term solution to this problem. What you really need is not the ph but the kh and gh. In most cases the ph is useless and misleading. There are many reasons why the ph will change frequently during the day.
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pictures with the stuff removed:
Not sure why but the pink flamingo seems to be growing. Also that plant in the very back is more than 2 feet wide as this is a 4ftx4ft cube.
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Are you using their sump? If so be sure to test which way you want the door to swing to get easy access to the socks. The sales druid told me about once a month for cleaning but i'm finding on the heavily planted aquarium it needs to be cleaned once a week. I'm actually replacing the sump with a glass cage full of sponges to see if that makes my life easier.
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They don't fight; is this species passive or will they fight as adults ?
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On 2/6/2024 at 4:24 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
Made a few changes but may have also killed my dwarf lilly. Added a Crypt and moved a few things around. Nothing too special as of yet. Received a cool plant and is a bit more challenging to work with. Will see how it goes, Rotala Tulunadensis.
You can't kill a lilly unless you find someone to eat the bulb; don't worry it'll come back as 50 in about 6 months.
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On 2/8/2024 at 9:29 PM, Fish Folk said:
Boo yeah! Planning to part with these youngsters in another week or so…
So soon? They grew fast ! My apisto take at least 6 months before they are ready to leave.
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In the end this was cyanobacteria as many suspected. I fixed the issue using chemi-clean per instruction (under dosed a bit); seems resolved but will update this thread if (a) it comes back and (b) i can find the thread again (which is very difficult on this site) 😉
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The final resolution is they sent a new motor under warranty (i had indicated earlier in this thread they were going to send a replacement before we got into the discussion with voltage).
The new motor is dead silent - i believe the flow is a little less than the older one (but can't measure that) and the cord is definitely a lot cheaper (pre vs post pandemic); but the thing is dead silent 😉
Unfortunately i cant' play with the voltage issue suggested in this thread as they require that i cut the cord on the old motor as part of the replacement policy. I suppose i could try to replace the cord on it if i want to test the voltage fix but on the other hand given a choice between mucking with the cord or doing a 200 gallon water change on my 600 gallon aquarium - i rather focus on the fishes than the motor 😉
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On 2/3/2024 at 6:24 PM, lefty o said:
its subjective. i used to have 5 SAE's in my 120, and they were just fine, but i had lots of plants they liked to lay in. only issues i ever had with them was come feeding time they would just push their way into the food. they werent aggressive, but they were getting in there and eating!
There are two standard dimensions for a 120; mine is the 4x2x2 - so only 48 inches long. Yea 5 could fit in there but a longer tank would work better.
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This is my 10:
Some plants include: red lip pontederifolia (plant on right); some green grecko (basically a nice green wenditti); nurii rosen (they are on the left but not very visible); golden anubia (right front corner); hornworth (in middle); marina moss (stuff growing on the sponge filters and all the driftwood as well as heater); pearl weed (at the very top in the hornworth (snail ate most of it); some small buces; a couple of crpyts (forgot species - front left/left center); ...
Not a fan of parva - takes forever to grow - this tank is 3 years old no co2; infrequent fertilizer but weekly water change - 10 gallon.
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Would be helpful if you provided your tank dimensions; after all some plants that are great for a 5 gallon aquarium don't work so well in a 500 gallon aquarium.
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I tried it once for 2 weeks; didn't seem to do much.
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One of my large L172a (i have 2 large ones 1 medium one and 1 small one). The others have caves in areas which are hard to photograph due to glass thickness - one is very cute hang out at the top of a notch in driftwood during feeding time - (s)he eats the food that falls into the notch as it floats from front to back; this one took a sponge (why i don't know - it initially dug a huge cave under a rock - but maybe someone else chased him out. Btw i have a yoyo that does the same thing - i'll get his photograph one of these days - in his/her case it is an itsybitsy piece of driftwood next to the side:
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On 2/3/2024 at 9:29 AM, Tanked said:
I am keeping 5 SAEs in a 29. Two of them are approaching their 4th birthday, and are still about 2.5 ". They usually work independently, but will group together when resting or frightened. Because they are a social fish, I personally think that you should keep at least three, but never just one. Mine are active, but I've never seen any aggression. The SAEs might get to 6 inches and might live up to 10 years or beyond, but that doesn't mean that they will.
They spend most of their time in the bottom half of the tank, among the plants and decorations, and their swimming habit is basically swim a little, eat a little. My opinion would be that our tanks differ by six inches, but you are good with adding two or three fish.
The only way they are 2.5 inches after 4 years is that they are runts or not actually sae but one of the similar looking fishes like flying foxes. My SAE - which i started in a 29 quickly out-grew it in under a year and then i moved it to a 120 and quite frankly i found the 120 small for it. These are very very fast fish.
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Young Discus 🔥
in Photos, Videos & Journals
Posted
They look really different than mine - which river did you find them ?