andieb

The "little baby" isn't so little anymore... and like most teens it was strongly against having its picture taken but I did my best. Do you guys think it's a male or female? I'm leaning towards female but I don't have a ton of experience with baby gouramis.

Hi! I had the same low KH issue in the past and I ended up using the "crushed coral in a bag in the HOB filter" method for a couple years with good success. I think your fish would probably be fine whether you put crushed coral in your quarantine tank or not as long as you really gradually acclimate your fish (like having your fish in a bag in the main tank for a full hour and replacing a small % of the bag water with tank water every ~10 min) when adding them to your main tank. However, to me, adding a small amount of crushed coral to your quarantine tank would probably be beneficial. I find crushed coral easy to clean since it behaves just like gravel when you gravel vac it. This is my own thinking, not scientific or anything, but I find crushed coral dusty and I suspect that the "dust" dissolves faster than the actual pieces of coral when you add it to the tank, so to avoid drastic/rapid changes in pH/KH when adding crushed coral either to substrate or to the HOB, I always rinsed it really thoroughly. One draw back to adding crushed coral to the substrate is that it's really hard to remove. So, I'm not sure how important aesthetics are for your QT, but my suggestion would be to put the crushed coral in a bag and put that in your QT. You could even bury it under the marbles or behind the sponge filter. That way you can remove it easily if you need to and it's easy to clean since you can pull the bag out and rinse it out. One last word of caution about crushed coral. Unless you have other things in your tank to counter-act the crushed coral, your pH will continue to increase to a point that may be higher than you/your type of fish would like. Factors like driftwood, leaves, dirted bottom or aqua-soils, heavier fish stocking, weekly-biweekly water changes with your low-ish pH/KH water will all counter act the crushed coral and keep it in check. I used crushed coral for years in an apartment with very soft water and a tank with aqua-soil. Then I moved to a new place with harder water and I did a sand-only tank but kept the crushed coral in the HOB out of habit, and my pH/KH when through the roof. So just make sure to monitor closely and try to strike a balance. Hope that helps!

I would say 84 wont kill the betta, but it's definitely warmer than I would keep a betta fish. Some claim that bettas kept above 80ºF may age more rapidly, and therefore die younger, because the higher temperature increases their metabolism. What type of heater is it? Some heaters are pre-set at 78ºF, in this case maybe you could return it and get a refund or replacement because the heater may be faulty. Other heaters need to be calibrated before use (like the ones I use: Eheim Jager TruTemp Submersible Heater). If you have the type of heater that needs to be calibrated, here is a video explaining how to do that:

Hello! I just wanted to share my recent experience in case it helps anyone setting up a tank with Dwarf Snowball Plecos (L471). I've had the same three dwarf snow ball plecos for around 2.5 years. They were EXTREMELY shy and inactive. They NEVER left their pleco caves, to the point where I worried they weren't eating. I only saw them out maybe 5-10 times in the past 2 years. I did notice that they came out when ALL the room and tank lights were off - only cause I'd catch a glimpse of them running back into their caves when I turned on a light. They did breed once but the hatchings didn't survive sadly. About 2-3 months ago, I got rid of the tank that contained the plecos. I had considered selling them, but instead decided to move them into my main display tank since the parameters were suitable. Immediately after moving them to my main tank, their behaviour completely changed. They're WAY more active now. They come out of their caves at all hours, they explore and forage frequently, they can often be spotted sitting on rocks and drift wood. They especially like sitting on this one rock that's flat and positioned under the outflow of the HOB filter. They're still shy but will now come out at feeding time even when I'm sitting in front of the tank. This is a well-established tank (set up ~2 years prior to writing this). The change in their behaviour is unbelievable and I'm so happy about their improved quality of life, they're so enjoyable to watch now. I wanted to share all the details about their past and current set ups, in case it helps someone designing a set-up for these guys. The bolded text highlights things unique to their new set-up and therefore could explain the change in their behaviour: Size: 35 gallon (15x15x36")* Substrate: CaribSea Super Naturals Premium Aquarium Sand ** Moderately densly planted (Vallisneria sp. Gigantea, duck weed, dwarf sagitarius, java fern, amazon swords, anubias, buce)*** Lighting is moderate, but the pleco caves were placed in the darkest park of the tank Lots of drift wood and rocks around the substrate, creating places for the plecos to hide behind.* Aquaclear 50 HOB filter**** - creates moderate-gentle current, moderate aeration Small pleco caves in a shale rock-arrangment. Co-habitants: red cherry shrimps, snails, honey gouramis, sterbai corys, hill stream loach.***** Feeding: frozen foods (adult brine, blood worms) and sinking pellets (bug bites bottom feeder formula, NLS algaemax or insectum), spirulina flakes Water parameters: pH: 7.4-7.6, Nitrates: 10-20 ppm******, Hardness: 180ppm, Nitrite: 0 ppm, Ammonia: 0 ppm, KH/Buffer: 80 ppm, ~78-81ºF (usually 79ºF) * Their new tank is bigger - particularly in depth and height - with more room for rocks and drift wood that provide cover for them to move around the tank while remaining hidden from view. In a counterintuitive way, I think this makes them more visible since they feel comfortable to come out and are becoming desensitized. Also the tank being taller means that the light is always more dim down near the substrate. ** Older tanks were half Super Naturals Sand and half smooth gravel. I really think they like sand. They dig in the sand and create "dens" and pits to hide in. *** The new tank is more densely planted than previous set-ups, especially with plants near the substrate (buce growing around drift wood and dwarf sagitarius which may provide cover) **** Slightly high turnover than previous set-ups. ***** They share the new tank with bottom dwellers (sterbai cory), which may make them more comfortable. They have never been paired with a co-habitant that bothered/scared them. They were previously with a dwarf pea puffer but he never acknowledged/interacted with the plecos, let alone acted aggressively towards them. If anything, the honey gouramis that the plecos are with now get more up-close and personal with the plecos (not in an aggressive way, just while foraging around the sand). ****** Being a larger tank, nitrates are more stable and tend to be lower than previous set-ups I've had these guys in. There's also always the possibility that this is age-related. They were much smaller when I first got them and they are now full-grown. Anyway, I really hope this post isn't interpreted as smug or braggy. I just want to provide information that could help someone create a comfortable environment for dwarf snow ball plecos, and so that they can enjoy watching these guys in action! Here's a picture of the tank:

Thank you @Colu, I’ll get this started tonight.

He’s growing up so fast 🥲

Hello, I’m hoping to get some advice on how/if I should treat my fish. Yesterday I noticed that my gourami’s eyes are swollen. Im concerned because I’ve had 2 gouramis die this past year, each time it started with swollen eyes. I’m hoping that I’m catching this early enough to treat, if necessary. 1. Is this fish actually sick? If so, what could it be sick with? 2. fish meds are hard to get quickly in Canada but I have the following. Would any of these be an appropriate treatment option: Kanaplex, ParaCleanse, Aquarium Salt, API Malafix, Kordon Rapid Cure I have a cycled tank I can quarantine him in. I guess I’m just not sure if I’m overreacting or if this is serious. pH: 7.4-7.6 Nitrates: 10-20 ppm Hardness: 180ppm Nitrite: 0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm KH/Buffer: 80 ppm Water Temperature: 79 F I’ve attached 2 pictures, one showing his eyes now and one showing his eyes a few weeks ago. thanks for any help!

My gouramis had a baby!!! Look at his little tentacles!! I'm in love 😍 Here's pictures of the parents. I'm trying to slowly wind down my fish hobby sadly because I'm hopefully going have a human baby in the next few years, and I know I'm not the best at managing a million things at once. So, I've made a rule for myself - no more buying fish! But apparently my fish have other plans... oh well!

This is such a smart idea, I’m definitely going to try this next time. Here’s my own tip: The API test kit label is printed on a piece of card paper which is blank white on the back. I put this card behind the tubes while holding the tubes up to the colour chart to block the colours from the chart and the rest of the room from tinting the water in the tubes. Here’s a picture of what I mean

Thank you all for your quick replies and guidance. I added carbon into the filter and performed a large water change. The fish all look ok, no odd behaviour. I’m not sure what the contaminant was, however I had been moving decor and fish between tanks the day before. I’d set some wet rocks down on a table which I do clean with all purpose cleaner, so maybe soap could have been transferred into the tank that way. I also used a zip loc bag to acclimate my fish, so maybe there was something on the bag. I also did some intense gravel vaccing so maybe I turned up some old food and waste which fouled the water. In any case, crisis averted! Thank you all!

There is no airstone, but bubbles from the HOB filter come up to the surface underneath where the foam was.

Hello, Just before bed, I noticed this foam on the surface of the water in my aquarium. Does this type of foam look concerning? Once I have a moment tomorrow, I’ll test the water parameters. Edit: I ended up testing some parameters tonight because I read that this foam can be a sign of ammonia. However, liquid test showed 0 ppm for ammonia. pH is 7.4. I also did a test strip which showed 0 nitrites and nitrates but tomorrow I’ll do a liquid test to confirm those. I had done a very deep clean in the tank and moved around some decor yesterday, so wondering if that might be part of the cause. Thank you!

Hahaha I just finished setting up a low iron tank, so when I saw the title of your post, I freaked out a little, I thought you were going to say something like low iron tanks will explode if you put them next to a soda glass tank.

@Galabar Thanks so much! @RennjiDK I agree that the tubes can be hard to interpret, and if you require precision then something with a digital read out would be better. I just know if my Nitrate reading is more orangey than yellowy, it's time for a water change. At least the ammonia and nitrite are pretty cut and dry.

Hi @RennjiDK, thanks for your response and suggestion. I use an API Test Kit. I haven't invested in a pH probe, since I figured they'd be expensive and I only have a couple tanks so don't mind taking the time to do a liquid test. Do you find the API liquid tests inaccurate? And yes, I'm running an air pump next to the window for the sponge filter. There is an AC vent above the tank so it should be getting decent air circulation, also because the lid leaves a pretty large opening. I tested pH again today and it was was at 7.4, so a big improvement. I taped some paper to the back of the tank to reduce the sunlight and I scraped off all the algae and did a deep clean and big water change.

Thanks for sharing that video, very informative, and what a beautiful tank! The DIY CO2 set up is ingenious!

Hi everyone, The pH in my new 12 gallon long is mysteriously increasing and I don't know why. I set up the tank 2 weeks ago, and used a sponge filter from an established tank. 1 week ago I tested all the parameters. There was ~20 ppm nitrate, no ammonia or nitrite. However, the pH was off the charts, I had to switch to the high range pH test, and even that was off the charts too 8.8+ pH! I had a couple limestone rocks in the tank, which I took out, because I figured they were likely the cause. Then I did a massive water change, after which the pH was 7.5. Last Friday the pH had risen slightly, however now (the following Tuesday) the pH is back to 8.4! I can't figure out what's increasing the pH. Here's everything that's in the tank: CaribSea Supernaturals Crystal River - website states that it's inert, I use it in all my tanks and have never seen pH change. Drift wood - should be lowering the pH if anything Dragon stone - which is supposedly inert Plants - dwarf water lily, dwarf sagittaria, marsilea crenata, buce, annubias, a pothos growing hydroponically. And sooo much algae! My leading theory is that the pH is being affected by the algae in the tank. Shortly after setting it up, there was a HUGE green algae bloom. The tank sits in front of a window and it also had a light which was on for 12 hours per day (I really wanted to make a carpet and I think I got a little carried away)... anyway, I've turned off the light (light is just on now for sake of the picture below) and plan to put a frosted glass sticker on the back of the tank to block some of the sunlight. I read somewhere that under high light conditions algae can cause pH to rise because its photosynthesis removes CO2 from the water. I'm wondering if that would be enough to explain the crazy high pH in the tank. Some additional evidence for this is that I tested the nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia today as well, and they were all completely zero.. probably because there is no bioload in the tank and the algae is removing it all. Wondering if anyone has any other ideas or factors I haven't considered. Thanks for your help! Here's pictures of when I first set it up and the algae monstrosity it has become...

I decided that I'm going to take down my 20 gallon long and replace it with a 12 gallon long! I just finished setting it up! The plants are a bit small right now because I reused what ever I had in my other tanks. In a few weeks when the plants are a bit bigger and the parameters are stable, I'm hoping to move my pea puffer, Viva into this tank. This will be his new home. I'm thinking of adding some longer grass to the background... not sure what else to add! Suggestions would be much appreciated!

Hi! How exciting!! Aesthetics are not exactly my strong suit, so maybe I'll leave the inspiration pics to others who are more skilled in that department. But I have some experience with lower-tech planted tanks (i.e. no CO2), so I thought I'd share a couple considerations I had in case it helps! 1. I've always regretted it when I used more than one substrate because the plant substrate mixes with the sand or comes up to the surface. Now, I only use sand (or any inert substrate) and I pick plants that primarily absorb nutrients from the water rather than through their roots and just dose with liquid fertilizer. This way a plant substrate isn't necessary. Also some plant substrates will cause pH to drop severely, and then the pH jumps way back up when you water change (if your tap water is ~7.0ish). It's more challenging to keep parameters steady in a smaller tank, and those swings could cause shrimp fatalities. I personally prefer inert substrates like sand or gravel because I find they make it easier to keep pH, KH and GH steady. 2. If you have success with your low grade cherry shrimp - i.e. they form a healthy little colony - then when it comes time to add your high grade shrimps what will you do with the low grade ones? If you add the high grade ones to the low grade, when they interbreed your colony will end up being more variable in grade than the high grade group would otherwise be. If you start with pre-cycled filter media, plant your plants, and then wait a few weeks, your tank should be stable enough that you could add 4 or 5 high grade shrimps. If they survive, they'll breed and you'll get lots more for free - if they don't survive, you only have a small sunk cost. I bought a plant once and found two tiny cherry shrimp babies in the bag - I put them in the tank and now I have hundreds and they all came from those two free babies! They are pretty bad quality tho, but cute. 3. I LOVE red root floaters. They get out competed by basically everything tho so I'd suggest having them as your only floating plant and be super careful not to introduce duck weed into to your tank. Even one duck weed will be the beginning of the end. Also red root floaters also really appreciate liquid fertilizers. Hope that helps! Can't wait to see the result!!! Please share 🙂

Thanks for the tip re video orientation! I'll pick up a QT tank tomorrow after work, and I have an extra sponge filter that's cycled, so I'll use that. I was away for the long weekend so he'd already been fasted for 3 days, but unfortunately I fed him last night before I posted on here. I didn't really capture it well in the video but any time he stops actively swimming he rapidly sinks to the bottom. Also, I noticed his poop looks a bit stringy and segmented.. I'm wondering if maybe he has internal parasites and it's affecting his swim bladder?

pH: 7.5 Nitrates: >5.0 ppm Hardness: 180 ppm Nitrite: 0.0 ppm Ammonia: 0.0 ppm KH/Buffer: 80 ppm Water Temperature: 76˚F One of my honey gouramis is having trouble swimming. He keeps sinking to the bottom and has to work very hard to swim up. He'll sit on the bottom, sometimes on his side unless he's actively swimming. But he's breathing normally, eating and pooping. He also has a swollen area in the part of his abdomen closer to his tail (could it be the swim bladder?). His abdomen where his stomach and intestines are is not swollen. I also notice his eyes are bulging slightly. My other gouramis are doing fine. Here is a link to a video of him where you can see how he's swimming and see the swollen part near his tail: https://youtube.com/shorts/P2sJ3gzpUnU Is this a swim bladder issue? I'm not sure what I should do. Thank you!

I definitely see a bit of my experience in each of these posts so far. I started keeping fish during the pandemic when my life felt slow and quiet. I was 25, experiencing the freedom of being out on my own with a little disposable income for the first time ever. I had fish-keeping projects on the go, plans for future tanks, inspiration, and so much passion. I used to sit in front of the tanks for long stretches, watching my fish, and googling any and every aquarium-related question that came to mind. Now I'm 28 and these days it feels like every year, month, day is shorter than the last. These days, my life feels fast and demanding. More often than not, my tanks can feel like a chore rather than a hobby. I remind myself that fish keeping is supposed to be fun and rewarding. If it doesn't feel that way anymore, then it's ok to opt out. As a result, I've simplified, decommissioned, and downsized, with plans to downsize some more. But then there are times, like today, where I've just got done spilling fish poo water on the carpet, stubbing my toes on the corner of the tank stand, sloshing water down my front, picking dried duck weed out of my arm hair, and at the end of it all, I grumpily sit down in front of a clean tank. The honey gouramis stair at me expectantly, the corys seem to have a little jump in their step from the water change, and I notice that my annubias, one of the very first plants I ever bought, is growing another new leaf. By demanding my time and attention, the tanks remind me to pause, and they give me time to watch these funny little creatures and to think about the fact that it's up to me to take time to remember the things that I love.

Sorry to hear about your loss! Maybe when you bought her she had a disease or infection, like internal parasites, that might not have been outwardly apparent. In my experience, the highest rate of fish death is in the first month or so after you buy them since many fish come with infections/parasites. Maybe keep a close eye on your other two to make sure that what killed the female hasn't spread to them. I'd wait to make sure they are healthy before buying any more fish for that tank. A subtle sign to look for is eyes that are bulging out slightly, it's a sign of infection and I noticed it once in a male honey gourami I had a few days before he died. He had no other outward sign of illness besides lethargy. A general rule of thumb I stick to is never to buy a fish at your LFS that is in a tank with any other dead/dying/sick/pale/skinny/weak looking fish. Once you've decided you'd like to buy a certain type of fish, just start keeping an eye out for them. Don't settle for "meh" looking stock. Wait until you find colourful, healthy looking stock and buy those. That's how I bought my Corydoras sterbai - I knew I wanted small, warm tolerant corydoras, and I'd actually overlooked Sterbais since in pictures they looked ho-hum but one day I saw a tank of absolutely amazing looking sterbai, so I got 6 and they have all survived to this day. Currently, I'm looking for Dwarf Chain Loaches, I've had an eye out for over a month now. Good luck and I hope your other two gouramis stay healthy!

Today the fry are dropping like flies! I'm so sad. Every hour there's another one dead. Right now I have 9 left, with one struggling to keep itself upright. I checked water parameters and I'm stunned by how high the pH is. I had to use both the regular pH and high pH test to get a reading. In the past I'd had trouble with low KH and crashing pH, so I got in the habit of always putting crushed coral in a bag in the filter. I'm taking that out right now, especially since L471 plecos like softer water. Also noticed that the nitrates are too high. I'm planning to do a series of small (maybe ~5-10 gallon) water changes throughout the rest of the day until the nitrates and pH come down to a reasonable level. I'll be as gentle as possible. At this point doing nothing feels like a worse choice. I'm not really sure what to do, but as it stands I'm scared they're all going to die 😞 Nitrates: ~10-20 ppm Nititres: 0 ppm Ammonia: 0 ppm pH: 8.0

The eggs have hatched! Sadly, the shrimps were eating the hatched babies!! I pulled the shrimps out, but I'd already lost 3 babies. So, I started with 17 and now I only have 14. I used a disposable transfer pipette to remove the remains of the half eaten babies. Quite sad but I'm still hoping for the best for the rest of the babies. Next time, I'll pull the shrimps out as soon as I see confirmation that the eggs are fertilized.