pedrofisk
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Posts posted by pedrofisk
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On 8/12/2020 at 5:44 AM, Dean’s Fishroom said:
I’ve been playing a little musical fish tanks lately, here is a 40 breeder that I’ve finished up. Background is by Universal Rocks and I cut some slate type tiles for the tank bottom.
I like the look.
How old is that hatch of Discus? Those are fry from your first collection trip I think?
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On 8/15/2020 at 9:30 AM, Daniel said:
The cherry shrimp love them too!
Hmm...I'll have to try that.
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Almost have all the parts to proto-type @Dean’s Fishroom overflow design. Hopefully I can even get a video out by this time next week!
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I raised adult brine shrimp last fall and winter inside in a 10g with small spong filter mostly for the fun of it. My first batch crashed and my second batch just did ok. I made salt water with Ocean Nutrition and fed sprilina powder.
They weren't doing much reproduction so I just turned off the light when we went to visit family for almost two weeks but left it running. When I got back they were doing great! I fed much more lightly and also stirred up the settled spirlina ocasionaly while toping off for evaporation to maintain the specific gravity.
They still didn't really get going enough to be much of a regular harvest so I finally broke it back down. Glad I did it though.
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This has actually been my case for 95% of my aquarium keeping days. I've always kept the biggest I could which has only been between a 40 and 55. For the last 9+ years that ahs been a planted community with lots of tetras, especially my favorite, Cardinals with a changing mix of cichlids from Bolivian Rams, or Apistos and now Angel fish. Nothing fancy but it works. For the longest time it was only schooling fish so the kids didn't realize when they left for the big river in the sky.
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7 hours ago, Dean’s Fishroom said:
Okay so here you go. . . one hole in the tank at what you want to be the large water change level. The height of the top T and 90 is what sets the water level in the tank. Using the T makes it so that no siphon can be created, You could also probably use two 90's and drill a hole in the top for a siphon break. Auto drip type water change and the water overflows and goes down the drain. Note: the ball valve must be closed for this. Large water change, open the valve and the tank will drain down to the level of the bulkhead fitting. This keeps all that extra pipe and stuff out of sight and out of the tank. No need to reach in the tank and rotate a pipe, etc.
Pictures are just for the idea you would need to determine the actual lengths of pipe etc. Might need some trial and error on getting the water level set. But once you did one tank you should be able to do any others.
Hope that make sense.
Wow, that's a brilliant idea, I completely get the concept. It is like an over the rim overflow except it is out side the tank.
I think I will need to extend it so the valve is below the aquarium shelf but I don't think that changes the flow physics. I probably won't do drip water change, at least at first but this system still works either way. the water in I am designing can be setup to drip or converted later. Do you do anything on your overflows to protect for fry? I worry about it a little more with the strainer lower rather than at the water line.
I am going to get this mocked up and will post the testing. Thanks so much @Dean’s Fishroom!
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I've never tried it but that said follow the instructions on the bottle but start on the lighter side. Some plants are not tolerant of it but even though most are start at the lighter dosing just in case. No reason to turn off the filter, the liquid dilutes and circulates through the system. the filter won't harm it and it won't harm the filter. If you see progress you can increase to a higher dosing but stay within the recommended doses.
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8 hours ago, Brandy said:
Also, we need a mad scientist subgroup here soon...
Darn skippy we do!
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I spent summer on a lake in Minnesota as a kid that has tones of sunfish, mostly bluegill but others too. I've always wanted to set up a biotope aquarium with sunfish to match that lake. Might have to put a chiller on it I suppose and it'd have to be big. I never saw those pygmy sunfish but they're gorgeous.
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For me it's the 55g in our living room that for whatever reason evaporates like crazy summer and winter. It's the most difficult to set up for water changes so sometimes I just let it get way to low. By the time I get the three little kids to bed I'm usually just too tired. Always easy to put off for another day until you say to yourself, wow I should have taken care of this 3 days ago.
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It does sound very similar to a standard sump setup except your using a canister filter. The gph will improve with the lower head pressure so that's good. I think you just want the return a bit away from the overflow right? Would this be in conjunction with a Matten filter?
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2 hours ago, Dean’s Fishroom said:
I have a great idea for you but need a little time to get it legible.
I would love that, thank you! Please take whatever time you need. I am also working on a rack design based on the wood rack you built in your room because I have such super limited space. It's actually the laundry room in fact with only room for 6' linear rack, a ceiling that is only 6'-10" and the most uneven concrete floor possible so the pre-fab shelves just won't work. I am going to start a thread on that this weekend.
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2 hours ago, Cory said:
All of my tanks in my fish room and store are setup this way. Not really to do the larger water changes, mostly out of no reason to glue in the stand pipes.
I don’t have a need for large water changes with an auto water change system. Rarely do I utilize the feature of being able to make them do larger water changes, only when I glued in my back grounds really.
Thanks that is super helpful and solves several concerns. Water here is great but also metered and expensive so I don't want to water change by filling and letting the old/new mix overflow. Is there a term for that? I'll still be siphoning mostly but I figure why not build in the option if practical.
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17 hours ago, Daniel said:
The document mentions D. magna and D. pulex. Other than assuming you have a lab, their section on raising Daphnia is okay.
Do you have a link for that article?
Over on the Live Food Cultures for Aquariums group on FB a member posted this article on Dapbnia form a mareine biologist/hobbyist: http://wako.aka.org/~WebContent/Articles/DaphniaCultureMadeSimple.htm?fbclid=IwAR1NluY3e5wC1ggcKaQ2l2JO2nsvqW6d5U4NYa73Y30AaxKeaMYj4fljClA
Here is an interesting paragraph on water conditions for Dapnia. Especially the part on phytoplankton and phosphorus.
"Literature searching on water parameters that daphnia are sensitive to you find that they are fairly tolerant of ammonia, intolerant of nitrites, somewhat tolerant of nitrates, and have an interesting relationship with phosphorus. It turns out that daphnia use phosphorus as an environmental cue to reproduce or not. In nature, daphnia reproduce most rapidly when algae (phytoplankton) are rapidly growing since micro-algae (phytoplankton) are the usual food for daphnia in lakes and ponds. When algae is rapidly growing and is at a high density, phosphorus in the water is usually low, because the algae are rapidly using this up as a food source. So daphnia reproduction is linked to phosphorus levels. High phosphorus indicates to the daphnia’s physiology there is no food (i.e. algae) in the water and cease reproduction. Low phosphorus level indicates to the daphnia’s physiology there should be high algae levels so kick reproduction into high gear. This is one of the reasons water changes are very critical to daphnia culture success! "
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1 minute ago, MickS77 said:
if you want to just buy something you could use peristaltic dosing pump.
I might use a dosing pump but I also want it to be a good container for growing the green water and if I use Chlorella it will need to be circulated. I am actually thinking of using a brine shrimp setup, maybe even the traditional soda bottle base from SF Bay since I already have a couple of old ones. Then I can either using a dosing pump (I also have an old non-smart one) which is probably the best option now that you mention it. Or I might Mcgyver parts from an IV system for a slow continuous drip. Then I will put a micro bulkhead in the Daphnia container, either from an RO system or Jemcho, for an overflow of sorts. The Daphnia will be in a cheap plastic container.
I've hasd pretty good luck growing green water with a few grass cuttings and adding Easy Green. The trick is not using up too much of it at once or it takes too long to grow back. Another reason I am thinking about Chlorella. That and just to be a mad scientist. I'm working on the laugh.
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I am working on a DIY Green Water or maybe Chlorella culture that will drip feed a Daphnia culture. However I'd be just as happy for it to exist as a product.
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I am working on the design or my fish room plumbing system (more to come on the whole design) and I have a question on drilled aquarium overflows. I am looking to add overflows with the low profile strainer to 10g and 20g highs. My question concerns the desire to have the strainer assembly do double duty for larger water changes. Is there any reason to have the strainer assembly unglued to a bulkhead with a slip fitting on the inside so the assembly can be rotated to make larger water changes?
I have not found an example of anyone doing this which leads me to believe it will not be practical. The first thought is the danger of the assembly always slipping out of position or worse, out. However I am tempted to try it. Has anyone else given this a try or know of a good reason not to do it? I always believe in getting the best expert advice but also in trying something new.
Here is a very simple front and side elevation on a 20g tall of what I am talking about. The horizontal dashed line represents approximately 50% of the water line. Thanks in advance!
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I thought it would be fun to have an ongoing thread on Fish/Aquarium related news members may come across, old or new. I'll get the ball rolling.
Home aquarium hobbyists are helping save 30 rare fish from extinction | New Scientist
WWW.NEWSCIENTIST.COMThe pet trade often harms wildlife but some dedicated amateur fish-keepers are working to keep many species of fish from extinction
Newly Described Electric Eel Has Strongest Voltage Yet Measured
WWW.THE-SCIENTIST.COMThe same study also finds there are three species of Electrophorus, rather than one.
"Smart" Tank Technology is the Future of the Aquarium Hobby
WWW.RATEMYFISHTANK.COMModern advances in technology affect every industry - even the aquarium hobby. Read on to learn about the top tech for aquariums in 2019.-
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I have that kind of sieve but only from about 2005 so post Berlin Wall. However I just discovered a small hole int he bottom! Now it'll never make it to 40 years old and I have to get a new one. So much for handing it down to my kids.
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I think some species are more hardy and can put up with de-chlorinated water better. Unfortunately you can never really know which species you're getting.
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6 hours ago, Daniel said:
My urge is to follow the rules on the easy parts and medium parts, but give myself a break on the hard parts and measure everything with all the equipment at my disposal and see just what I can learn from this experiment.
Is that cheating?
I don't think it's cheating on the hard parts as long as...you wear period dress while maintaining the aquarium. There's gotta be a trade off. Especially a Fedora, that's non-negotiable.
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Ola. My favorite guppy is the...Endler! I've never actually had guppies.
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How fun. I actually discovered your channel a couple of weeks ago and have enjoyed the videos. Those Rice Fish in bowls are something else. Great to see you on the forum and keep up the good work!
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I'm loving this project. I remember reading about the concept of " balanced aquariums" in historical literature. Not too far from where we are now with the exception that they didn't believe in lots of water changes.
Just don't use the film "The Incredible Mr. Limpet" as a reference. Goldfish, gouramis, silver dollars AND angels?! How about that gate valve though. The Trailer is worth checking out for a scenario we've all had happen.: https://youtu.be/bM4vR1B6xCk
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Deans Fishroom, what's happening
in Photos, Videos & Journals
Posted
I like both options for the intake strainer but I lean towards the low profile since it would be easier to hide with hard-scape or plants. That said, for the tanks I am planning to drill I am leaning towards the strainer with the Coop pre-filter sponge.