Tanked
-
Posts
2,053 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1 -
Feedback
0%
Content Type
Forums
Downloads
Store
Events
Blogs
Gallery
Profiles
Posts posted by Tanked
-
-
On 2/6/2024 at 11:15 AM, Flipper said:
My mother and aunts wore "wiglets" whenever they wanted to dress up. It was a hilarious phase but quite popular at the time. 🤣
Couldn't be any worse than the attachments worn today
-
2
-
1
-
-
On 2/6/2024 at 9:41 AM, Bob B said:
I tried these just for fun. Out of 6 bulbs 3 of them sprouted, 2 are growing reasonably but one is out of control. In 2 weeks it's over a foot tall and growing like a prehistoric weed. I've never seen such rapid growth.
You're lucky. I bought one of those 6-packs from Petco and got 0-6
-
I use ceiling light diffusers to separate plants from the larger plant eaters. There is no restriction of water circulation, and small fish easily swim through the grate if they want to chill with the plants. I don't keep bettas, so I don't know if seeing each other is an issue.
-
On 2/5/2024 at 2:47 PM, Mercfh said:
Is this species maybe just sort of "weak"? I mean maybe it died from just stress coming from the fish store (I did the float for 30 minutes thing but the LFS store water is very similar to mine anyways). The ones that "made" it from the initial batch seem fine and I've not had any problems with ANY of the other fish in the tank (Raphaels/Corys/Loaches and Pleco's and a few neon tetras).
If some of the new fish and all of the old fish are surviving, I would think that the problem is at the LFS. I hope you are asking for refunds.
On 2/5/2024 at 2:47 PM, Mercfh said:20% water changes and making sure I dose dechlorinator for the full tank volume
Alternatively, If the fish are already weakened due to stress, It is possible to overdose Prime and other conditioners. I would follow label instructions. Prime is considered safe up to 5x the dose, but if the fish are already in trouble, or your math is off...
-
1
-
-
On 2/4/2024 at 11:58 AM, purrmaid said:
I had some about 5 years ago on my plants and driftwood and got a trio of siamese algae eaters for my 36g. They took it out in a couple weeks and it hasn't been able to get a foothold since, even after 2 have unfortunately passed. That may not work at your stocking density, idk. There's also a lot of confusion online about is it a sae vs a flying fox? Do they only eat BBA when young? I'm definitely not enough of a pro to tell you any of those answers but I remember there was a lot of differing opinions when I was trying to solve my own BBA issue. Mine is just my personal anecdote so take that with a grain of salt
There is a lot of confusion! I have been keeping SAEs for about 4 years. I'm comfortable with the identification because SAEs imo lack the coloration of the other variations. They are hard workers in the planted tank, and are outperforming the SDs for algae eating in a different tank..
-
On 2/4/2024 at 8:47 PM, mabowman89 said:
Apparently my tank wasn't nearly as cycled as I had originally thought before adding the fish (I know newbie mistake). I have 6 glofish danios in a 20L (its me again) that seem to be happy and active. I do get ammonia and nitrite readings everyday, although I didn't have any ammonia for a while. I probably was over testing, as I was using a couple different brands of strips at once, with slightly different results each time. I have now decided to stick with one brand and am doing daily water changes with any reading of ammonia and nitrite. I know I was over feeding (another newbie mistake) and started with flake food but switched to micro pellets. I will take any and all advise you have for me. I'm thinking to back down to every other day feeding. How much of a water change should I do? I've done any where from 10-40% in the last 3 days. Since I haven't been consistent with the types of tests, I'm not positive of any progress I've made thus far, but hope to in the next several days. So thankful for all the previous advice I have gotten from this wonderful community!
You have already begun to figure out that consistency is important. Multiple test strips, enzyme products, water change schedules and volumes, and feeding routines just muddy the water so to speak. Whichever testing method you use, follower the instructions exactly. Test strips are a good indicator, and Master test kits can be more precise, but are also more subject to user error.
I would not do more than 1 water change per day. Water changes are stressful to new fish. More stress will lead to more ammonia. I would start with 50%. If your levels drop and stay down, try 25%
Fish don't have to eat everyday, and 6 Danios require very little food, so you may still be over feeding. I would suggest a fasting day and a feeding ring to give you more control. The fish will know where the food will be, and there will be less waste.
I'll second @Tony s's suggestion of Hornwort or any other plant. Hornwort is cheap, fast growing, and consumes ammonia, nitrates, and other things produced by fish waste and over feeding.
-
On 2/3/2024 at 6:14 PM, anewbie said:
The only way they are 2.5 inches after 4 years is that they are runts or not actually sae but one of the similar looking fishes like flying foxes. My SAE - which i started in a 29 quickly out-grew it in under a year and then i moved it to a 120 and quite frankly i found the 120 small for it. These are very very fast fish.
They are very fast, and hard to measure, The first picture is from Aquarium Coop, and the others are mine.
Whether or not the three newer fish will get larger remains to be seen. If they aren't SAEs, than the LFS continues to get it wrong.
-
1
-
-
I am keeping 5 SAEs in a 29. Two of them are approaching their 4th birthday, and are still about 2.5 ". They usually work independently, but will group together when resting or frightened. Because they are a social fish, I personally think that you should keep at least three, but never just one. Mine are active, but I've never seen any aggression. The SAEs might get to 6 inches and might live up to 10 years or beyond, but that doesn't mean that they will.
They spend most of their time in the bottom half of the tank, among the plants and decorations, and their swimming habit is basically swim a little, eat a little. My opinion would be that our tanks differ by six inches, but you are good with adding two or three fish.
-
1
-
-
You can overdose, and you can abuse the plants to a point where they give up. I believe most treatments take place on consecutive days. Opinions on peroxide treatments vary. The video demonstrates a whole tank treatment. You can damage some of the BB, so it is important to turn off all pumps and remove sponge filters. The water needs to be still especially if you are spot treating. I usually treat for at least one hour with the lights off. Wait at least 24 hours between treatments.
-
1
-
-
On 2/1/2024 at 8:18 PM, Galabar said:
If you look closely at that center anubias, you can see a bite mark. I'm rehabilitating those anubias from a tank with silver dollars and Buenos Aires tetras. I found that anubias was the only thing they wouldn't eat. However, they would nibble on the new, little yellow leaves as they grew in. Unfortunately, one day, I think they discovered that they liked the stems, because a bunch of leaves were floating at the top. The anubias seems much happier with the guppies. 🙂
It might be time for another experiment. Before I sacrifice an entire plant, I might try floating a few leaves.
-
I've been using a preset 50 watt Aqueon in the 29 for quite awhile. Room temperature is 60, the heater maintains 76 +-
-
1
-
-
Welcome to the forum.
I am not good with diseases, but I had a similar issue last year. Based on the suggestions that I got, I floated the fish in a kitchen colander with an air stone, and some aquarium salt. The thought being that additional oxygen and shallower water would make it easier on the fish. The angel could not swim so a few blood worms added to the setup helped determine if the fish was eating. It was not the ultimate cure, but the fish did recover and live long enough to breed.
-
Opinions on 3% H2O2 treatments vary. It is generally accepted that waiting a minimum of 24 hours between treatments is safe, and treatments may need to be repeated 3 or 4 times.
If your tests are still showing 0 nitrates, I would use a full dose.
-
Submerged leaves cut off from the air will probably die. The only houseplant that I am aware of, said to be toxic to fish is Defenbachia.
-
1
-
-
On 1/29/2024 at 2:06 PM, MattyM said:
I recently did something like this. I was moving a lot of fish so wanted to be extra safe.
I put the fish in buckets with just enough of the previos tank water to keep them comfortable for an hour or so. Then, every 15 minutes I would put a couple cups of the new tank water into the bucket, and after an hour I netted them out and into the new tank - worked great. Kind of like drip acclimating.
That was basically my process. The owner's had health issues, and had abandoned the tank. The tank would have looked like the set of a dystopian movie if you could actually see anything other than algae.. I retained about 20 gallons for the fish and stretched the process out over 2 days to give me time to restore the tank, and acclimate the fish to their new normal.
-
1
-
-
I kept a tall window jar for one season. The idea was to place a few pieces of Duckweed in it and see if it would live up to its reputation. It did not, but it did develop much longer roots than expected. Eventually it picked up some wildlife and if you were lucky you could see the convection currents caused by the sun's heat.
Today I keep a 10 gallon that goes by several different names, but it is where plants go to recover or die. It has a light and nothing else but aquarium water. The snails that live there survive by eating the decaying plant matter. Some of the plants also grow better here than in the other tanks.
-
On 1/30/2024 at 2:12 PM, Cincala said:
Should I do a water change right after the treatment, like an hour after?
Your option. Peroxide brakes down to water and oxygen, so after a couple of hours, it is gone. I think I would wait, let the peroxide to continue its work, and then maybe take a toothbrush to the tough spots and perform your maintenance.
-
Story of my life! My backup heater is being discontinued before I plug it in for the first time.
-
On 1/29/2024 at 1:40 PM, Mmiller2001 said:
If you need to do a whole tank treatment, obviously, there’ are better option, but I would do Glut over H2O2. It will kill Val type plants but it’s effective against BBA. This is only a temporary fix if you are unwilling to fix what is causing it in the first place.
The TFBs are major plant eaters, so a few sad plants survive behind a fish fence. The Val were the first plants dragged through the fence, so that won't be a problem. The recently planted Chain Swords are showing some promise. Will it kill Chain Swords?
-
On 1/30/2024 at 12:43 PM, Cincala said:
Ok! I have a few of those. I have one that size, I use it to water mist my succulents.
Too late for the plants, I trashed them. The rest of new ones arrived this morning, and my shrimp tank is over grown with plants I can transfer over. The new plants will go in an Alum soak for now.3 1/2 tbsp. of peroxide is not a lot, should I mix it with a little tank water in order to spray it?
Will this get rid of BBA as well?I've read where you should dilute it, but for the life of me, I can't see the purpose. Like you said, it isn't a lot. I spray straight H2O2 on the aquarium plants in and out of the aquarium. Fun Fact: If you use the spray bottle underwater, it will dilute the peroxide in the bottle.
Straight H2O2 will kill BBA. You might not get it all on the first treatment. In 1-24 hours the dead algae will change color, usually red. As I mentioned early on, I don't use any of the other products. Peroxide (H2O2) is super cheap and plant safe to use.
My single experience with Alum wasn't good. I can't prove it, but I blame it for the 2020 Great Hornwort Apocalypse. 😬 The next time I quarantine, I will use the RR method.
-
A trigger sprayer is that plastic pump spray bottle your window cleaner comes in. With luck you can find a pint size bottle for about $2.00 I have one each for peroxide and vinegar; both have uses in the home and around the aquarium.
The aquarium looks much better. If you have the space and time, and you haven't discarded the other plants, you may be able to treat and rejuvenate some of them.
-
I have a 5 yr. old Nana that just put out its first flower. I had done some pruning, so I thought it was just a new leaf. The rhizome on this one has a few direction changes
You will have your answer soon. Two flowers would definitely be super cool
-
1
-
-
BBA in my 75 is more of an annoyance than a problem. The barbs eat some of it. Over time the gravel substrate will darken with BBA or some other black/gray algae. A deep gravel cleaning will turn over the gravel, deny light to the algae, and restore the bright white appearance.
Spot treating decorations and plants have little or no effect on the gravel. I'm thinking that treating the gravel with a whole tank peroxide treatment might kill the beneficial bacteria in the UGF even though it is shut off.
-
.JPG.4c268ab00afc06a298dae36ef1a67933.JPG)
Plants mysteriously died super fast?!
in Plants, Algae, and Fertilizers
Posted
For now at least, I would stop chasing numbers. Assuming your EG pump is actually putting out 1ml. each time, your plants have grown, and you have added more plants. Different plants have different requirements. It is time to up the dosage. For me at least, I think the new holes in the Anubia are confirmation. You might try adding one pump every three or four days. The idea is to have a steady nutrient supply all week, not a feast on Saturday and a famine on Friday. I hope this helps.