Lennie

^^ As I keep these fish room tanks as breeding project tanks, I only keep one species in each tank. If it was one of my display tanks with that tank size, What I would do is, I would probably wouldn't mix fish that are normally kept in separate layers in a taller tank, as this tank size does not really allow to create height difference between swimming levels. Like a hatchetfish, a tetra school and an apistogramma for example, won't really be utilising different levels they normally would, in a higher tank. So I would personally consider that while stocking and only choose fish that utilise two swimming levels at most, instead of 3. Btw, maybe you have seen these, but I love these setups and maybe they can inspire you for that tank size:

Well, for most fish that can be kept in that tank size, height won't be an issue. Except discus breeding tank, all tanks I have in my fishroom currently have 25cm height (aprox. 10'') and I have apistos, rams, so many guppies, endlers, different snail tanks, dwarf crayfish, vampire crabs, bettas, whiptails, BN plecos, corydoras.. You can keep a lot of stuff there in my experience if your concern is only height. I lovee shallow tanks.

For easy reds, aquasoil and good light works. They don't look extremely deep red, but more paler/ orangeish but still red. However ofcourse co2 will make them look better overall and will give you more red options to try. https://www.2hraquarist.com/en-mk/blogs/freshwater-aquarium-plants-guide/best-red-plants I personally wouldn't go for rotala one tho.

Cories do the same %100 🙂 To be fair any bottom dweller that sift through around will ruin these sort of scape

you gotta buy a confirmed pair or buy a small school of juveniles like 6 of them and raise them together and expect them to pair up when they grow up. However, you will need to separate the pair otherwise they will bully everyone else, sometimes to death. You can keep the pair and rehome the others as an option. They aren't hard to breed but they are not like put an adult male and female together and expect them to breed after conditioning in bettas. Getting a pair is the tricky part. And ofcourse you should be able to deal with the fry situation because they breed prolifically. You should have plans for rehoming/selling juveniles too after growing them approximately to 3 month old age.

I personally agree with this one. a 20H/29g can be a breeding project tank but a normal one to keep angelfish there forever in my personal opinion for a group it is 55g+, for one as centerpiece in a community I would go 40.

too big for them to eat sadly at the start. making them eat anything is one of the biggest challenges, and they may starve to death. Microworms can be a next step after the vinegar eels, but they are too small to eat microworms when they hatch. If you can get a vinegar eel culture, and follow it with microworms and live bbs gradually, it sounds pretty good and ideal. The bigger they get, you can start feeding the bigger food 👍🏼

Are you a gamer? Also what are the names of the kittykats

Here is some videos you can check if you haven't yet:

Hey Lily, here is what I do: 1st, before starting to a betta breeding project you need to culture a live food that is very tiny because your babies will need tiny live food. Vinegar eels are easy and stays okay for a long term without culturing again and again. So first, if you don't have something like infusoria or vinegar eels going on, start a culture. To breed: My female sorority tank always have my male betta tanks in their vision from far away, so usually they carry eggs. I put something that floats on top to help male to build nest around, catappa leaf works great. Then I cover around it with lots of amazon frogbits. I use a shallow tank, cycled sponge filter that is there to cycle the water but without any surface agitation. I put the female inside the net box and leave her there for some time. Like this : They always see each other, usually, males start building bubble nest directly and females have their belly chunkier building up eggs more. I feed both female and the male in the tank. Usually male swims to females net breeder box, flares her and directly goes back build his nest. After some time, when the nest seems to be completed, and female starts to try swimming towards him/the nest, I release her. They barely flare at all at this time. I only dim the lights but never turn it off completely. But you always have to be more careful. Some males tend to be very aggressive. And in case you wanna breed such male, you always have to be ready for intervention. Also, sadly not every pair you want to work actually works. Even after following the exact steps, their energy may not match. I tried this male with a yellow koi female and they didnt work it out. However, after staying together for two days together with this red koi female, they were ready to breed! So at the end of the day, they kinda decide if they are suitable for each other. To select a pair: You should make sure female isn't bigger than male. Their size should be ideally similar maybe female being a lil bit smaller. Ideally, they should have same type of tail/fin structure and color to have better quality babies that would sell. Like if you wanna breed a halfmoon male, you need a halfmoon female. For example, that male veil tail of yours don't really carry the specific look of veil tails so I wouldn't breed him. From the yellows you have, male is a half moon plakat and female is? Halfmoon? Those don't seem like coppers to me btw Some health issues I can remember rn to keep in mind for breeding: -Marbles, scale patter bettas, dragons etc are more prone to diseases, tumors, blindness. Same goes for aliens. Your samurais have the scale going to the eyes. If I'm not mistakes, this may cause you end up having blind ones potentially. like this: -Kois that color up all the time rather than being colored at first are more prone to cancer and health issues. -In my personal opinion and observations, dumbo ears have extremely low quality of life in general. Male betta may repair the nest when needed and guard it, but won't take care of the fry. So observe the fry situation and don't directly assume an exact period of leaving him in the tank. to remove female, again don't estimate a direct 2 days. When you see after they mated and he started to chase female away from the nest, it is time to remove her. Sometimes male cut this period too short and start being aggressive towards female when she wasn't done laying. So it is best to remove her to prevent injuries I think.

Thank you for pointing it out. I have never thought of this. I will surely keep an eye on her

No. Bacteria uses that as food. Some will turn ammonia into nitrite. Then other bacterias will turn nitrite to nitrate. You need both of these bacterias. And both of them to establish a colony. Introducing some bacteria spores with a bottled bacteria is not an instant cycling, it is a start of a fishless cycle. But it won't do anything really until you start feeding the tank some sort of ammonia. Idk why some of these packages mention you can directly add fish (see 5:35 in the video below) unless you wanna do a fish in cycle with is usually only an emergency situation thingy and mostly avoided in the modern time fishkeeping. I think you need to do more reading/watching Nick. You seem unfamiliar with the cycling concept. Please watch this video: I think it will help your understand better

Update time! @Odd Duck she stopped after 20 babies. I removed the babies and kept her in the container with some aquarium salt mixed in overnight. She was all fine this morning, so no epsom salt needed. here is pic of her from this morning. Her friend came to ask how is she doing: she looks a bit paler but probably stress, and calming down will help her to gain her color back.

there must be something offI think, either a lightsource adding some vision, so not dark enough, or, overfeeding shrimp so with the morning lights, betta eats the uneaten food. They are diurnal all my bettas either sit on the bottom or on the top of the water motionless during night time. I cant think of a scenario out of these two. As they said they keep it pitch black, then overfeeding imo. 4 shrimp can eat only a tiny amount of food

Shrimps are nocturnal scavengers. In my community tanks, I feed my shrimp and snails after the lights are off. Easy peasy! Feed your betta normally during daytime. Incase he misses any food, shrimp will likely take care of the uneaten food. And you can feed whatever you wanna feed your shrimp after the lights off. The only thing to consider is, make sure to feed your shrimp somewhere that you can see the leftovers in the morning. In a shrimp dish would be the best bet, so you wouldn't foul the water by overfeeding

I've just seen this question Well, I always plant from the start, I find it hard to plant on aquasoil after it stays in the water, kinda gets mushy. So I personally plant directly to the aquasoil and then fill the tank afterwards. For planting guide, this may help you a lot:

Many thanks for the detailed explanation. Much appreciated! Good news is I have all the required pieces at home! So that's nice. As you let the boxes have the tank water flow coming and passing through, so no methylene blue then to not make it join the tank water column. Don't you face eggs going bad issues? Does the airstone does the job of fish fanning fresh water over the eggs all the time to prevent them going bad all alone? Looking forward for the second part ( : Also I found this video on your journal Same setup I see! I guess you added the snails there after fry started free swimming right?

I am not a puffer keeper so I cannot give you any suggestions. I have been researching and listening pea puffer experiences for some time so that's why I tried to help a lil. But I agree that puffers are very cool fish in general 🙂

Thank you ! And yes I am willing to read ofcourse:) I will be checking them this evening do you have any suggestions about the egg incubators I mentioned about? Should I get one of them or look for something else?

The answer is, how do you feel about keeping many live food cultures around, if you are willing to successfully go for deworming quarantine process of at least 4 weeks, and willing to spare a kinda a big tank for very small sized fish you should be willing to keep lots of live and frozen foods around worms, snails, live bbs, daphnia, etc. to provide a good diet. They likely won’t accept commercial foods. you can check this site: https://www.pufferfishenthusiastsworldwide.com/amp/c-travancoricus I saw them at my lfs. They were one of the cutest things I have ever seen. But providing them the diet they deserve is tough, especially considering your holidays and stuff. Someone may come over to feed your fish some fish foodin your absence, but I don’t know anyone around me who would farm some daphnia or worms and feed these guys 😄

Thanks Duck, yes she keeps delivering. I can count 20 now. I will keep an eye on her

16 babies and counting…

Lucky you 🙂 I was silly enough to get one as a centerpiece fish only. And I have never seen them again ever at my lfs. Wish I bought a big group so I could potentially breed them. They are adorable

Today, in the afternoon feeding session in the fish room, I’ve noticed many babies in the pingus tank. There were all expected to give birth around the same time, so while checking in for the babies I saw this female with I guess intestines out? Somehow failed giving the birth? What’s wrong? Currently I separated her to a container and added some salt. Activity level is just as it should be, shes active, swimming around and eating well. I took a pic of her before I out her to the container. She’s alive Could you guys please check when you have time? @Colu @Odd Duck OKAY… While I am testing the parameters she gave a birth in the cup it seems. I went to check a test strip and came back saw 8 babies.she keeps giving birth. I hope she is not in such pain. Im so sad right now. Please tell me what can I do

Just sad 😞 Yea I would love to read in obsessive detail whenever you have time to write & explain. I have never needed to use a fish egg incubator in my life. So do I need one? Let's go... I did some google research and the best looking ones I can seem to buy are; -Ziss ZET-80 - Egg tumbler -Ziss ZET-65 version Do you mean these sort of incubators right? Would you suggest one over another? The difference is: "The difference between the egg tumblers is in the internal diameter and the height. The ZET-80 is the largest with an internal diameter of 80 mm, then the ZET-65 with an internal diameter of 65 mm. ... The ZET-80 Egg Tumbler (Internal diameter 80mm) can be used for the eggs of most Cichlids, plecos, discus fish, angelfish, corydoras, etc." When you help me understand the process, I will buy one of them. Should I also buy methylene blue? cheers,