tolstoy21

Ok, so I'm not officially breeding them; I just happen to be in the same room that they are in while they go about the business of breeding themselves. So, question time . . . I have fairly soft/acidic water. Will this be a problem for the development of the young? Do they need harder water, like guppies?

Agree 100%. I have a lot of fish that breed in my community tanks. Sometimes a few fry survive. Sometimes none do. It's always a pleasure to see the little guys that make it for the first time cause they usually stay hidden and then pop out of a plant -- surprise! -- when you're least expecting it and they are big enough that they feel confident in not getting snacked upon. Once you start setting up dedicated breeding tanks, it's a whole `nother ballgame. This can still be enjoyable and rewarding, but it does feel a bit more like commitment and work than just letting nature take its course in the community tank scenario.

Your best chances of success are going to be having the breeding pair in a dedicated tank. A 5 gallon might be a tad small. A 10 gallon will work fine. You can either leave the male in after the female has fry, or relocate him back to the main tank. Relocating the male works on a number of levels 1) he won't snack on fry 2) the female won't beat him up (she can definitely go mama grizzly when defending her kids!). If you have the pair in a 5 gallon tank, the male is not going to be able to get away from mama bear very well and his chances of getting killed by her will go up. On the other hand, if you leave male and female together, the male will usually eventually get the hang of being a good dad either on the first try (if you're lucky), or on subsequent tries. I'd personally try this in a tank big enough for the male to keep his distance from the new mother. A 10 gallons with some plants and hardscape that the male can hunker down behind works well. You can definitely breed them in the community environment, but you're going to run into aggression issues with mama grizzly, and/or the other fish eating most or all of the fry.

I fed mine once in the morning and once in the evening. Also agree with the live BBS not being necessary, but definitely helpful.

Totally agree with the clean water thing. This is why I like Polyfill in an HOB. Its very inexpensive and very good at pulling solid waste out of the water. It's very simple to change. You can also visually see when it needs to be changed. I also tend to oversize my HOBs a little for the tank they are on, unless this creates too much flow. Clean water comes down to two things in my opinion (and yeah this is just an opinion based on what's been successful for me). 1) Removing physical waste from the system 2) Water changes. For me, I tend to focus on filters for their mechanical filtration capabilities. I do keep some simple sponge in them, for both mechanical and biological. But then, like I said, I go polyfill or those rolls/pads of filter floss, cut to size, placed in my sump. To be honest, my cleanest tank in my house, with crystal clear water, lots of healthy fish, and requiring minimal water changes, uses a simple, home-made under gravel filter and some floating pennywort. Anyway, hoping this thread doesn't become a flame war. Everyone has their preferences. Mostly everything mentioned in this thread will work for your needs. In my experience, water quality actually comes down to a single factor -- the human one -- that is, how well the aquarist does his or her job (not over stocking, not over feeding, water changing when needed, etc etc.).

This is one of those things where you can most certainly go down the slippery slope into "paralysis by analysis". Honestly, I'd just start with what you have, maybe add some simple polyfill you can pickup from a hobby shop for mechanical filtration, and then just go from there. If, over the course of a few weeks, your filtration cannot keep up with keeping the water clean looking, maybe add a finer floss. If your filter cannot process the amount of waste present in the system, then go with a bigger filter or different, better media. This is one of those things where you can definitely overthink things. Like I said earlier, I am sure that some media types are superior to others, but until you know what your needs are, it doesn't make sense (at least to me) to go with anything other than the simple sponge that came with the filter (maybe 2x those if you have the room) and some simple floss. Then if you encounter issues, start tweaking things. A Ferrari is a heck of a lot nicer and far superior to a bicycle and can measurably out-perform one in every road test, but if all you need is to get down to the end of your driveway to get the mail, then purchasing one would be overkill. (For that matter, a bike would be overkill too!).

@gardenman Ok, so you successfully talked me out of the Pleco idea! I spent $5 on a clown pleco like 5 years ago or so, and have seen it like a dozen times since. So I guess, this would just be 20x as much for the same result!

I'll stir up the waters here. I'm sure one media type -- sponge, ceramic rings, lava rock, plastic, etc. -- works better than the other in some measured laboratory test or under some very specific use-case. But honestly, in practice, most of us don't really notice the difference. Just make sure you have the filter sized right to the tank so whatever you go with in the end has the capacity of holding the amount of media you need. I personally like sponge in my HOBs. I'll use the sponge that came with the unit, plus filter floss for water polishing. I've also used ceramics, lava rock, nothing at all, and they all seems to do fine (even nothing at all). Personally, I think that's the way to go, because you seem to already have thought of and done this, so no extra effort or money involved!

Yeah that’s definitely a good option as well. It all depends on how much you need and if buying bulk makes sense and saves you $$$ in the long term. This is why I think the 3/4” styro sheets at HD are a good option. You get a handful in the package, they are available at a moments notice, and you don’t have to pay shipping. This is what I’ll sometimes get if I need some and don’t have any on hand. The picture is deceptive, and doesn’t represent what you get, unless I’m linking the wrong item. https://www.homedepot.com/p/3-4-in-x-1-25-ft-x-4-ft-R-2-65-Polystyrene-Panel-Insulation-Sheathing-6-Pack-150705/202090272

I used to get it from Uline. But the shipping there can be expensive, but it’s still an ok rate compared to Amazon. I’ve since been able to source it from a local shipping supply company. Oh also. Home Depot has 3/4” plain styrofoam sheets at a good price.

@Cinnebuns I shipped a couple hundred boxes of fish in the past year. Before I got started shipping fish, I watched a video from Dan's Fish that was probably the single most helpful video there was for me. Link below included below. These are my personal lessons I've learned (first two deal with dealing with shippers): UPS is great, and you can get better rates using them by going through a free shipping provider like Shippo. Shippo is very bare bones, but it's free. If you ship a lot, you might want to upgrade to a better service, but you'll need to pay for that. Don't ask don't tell. That's my policy in regards to what's in my box. I put fragile stickers and this-end-up stickers on the boxes, but I don't tell the shipper I'm shipping live animals because I don't want to have to deal with those complications, regulations, and the fear, uncertainty and doubt that will manifest on their end. Stryo-line your boxes and makes sure the styro is a tight fit, but not so tight it bulges the box sides as this makes it hard to tape and seal the top nicely. Breather bags are awesome for many reasons I won't go into . . . . BUT their failure rate is higher than traditional double-bagged poly bags. I now only use them for shipping shrimp. I wished they were more reliable. I love using them. Anything smaller than like a 12x9x9 box is risky for including heat packs in anything but the most frigid weather. Always tape heat packs to box lids. I skipped this step once, and well, live and learn! Anyway, hope some of this helps. Agreed on the peanuts. Use something simple and absorbent like wadded newsprint for filling out the blank space. This also helps with temp control and prevents shifting contents. I also use 1" thick styro-lining on my boxes year round. It not only helps with temp regulation, it also adds a lot of structural integrity to the boxes.

Hi all, I'm looking for a recommendation for a nice-looking, medium-sized pleco for an Oscar tank. Right now I have 2 small oscars in a 125 and I was looking to also add a pleco, but I don't want something that gets a foot long. I'd like something that's grows big enough to not get eaten, and that is a really nice looking pleco. I really like the looks of the L114 leopard cactus plecos, but I see varying reports on how large they get. I'd preferably like something that stays at, or under, under 10". Any recommendations?

@clovenpine I made something very very very similar to your build and it works fantastic. The water in the tank it's in in my house has the most crystal clear water of any tank in the house! I'll see if I can find my thread I posted here about it. Edit: Found it! --->

Ivanacara Adoketa. I think most of us probably assumed the species based on the photo.

I'm also trying to get these to breed and will certainly post back with any observations or success. I have also read that they will breed but the Ph needs to be very low and the water very clean to keep the eggs from going bad. Right now I have mine in RO water with a one box filter stuffed with peat pellets and the other stuffed with a buffering substrate I use for caridina shrimp. No idea what the Ph actually measures at, but I'm going to guess it's way under 6. I know the person I got the fish from kept them sub-6, but I don't know much more than that. I believe my fish are F1 or F2 from wild caught. Fish are happy as can be, but I have not yet seen any breeding. I will admit that I cannot see into the cave the female hangs out in, so she could be laying eggs that remain infertile for all I know. I just started feeding them live black worms and they are both very colored up, so fingers crossed. If anyone has any success all the way through to raising fry, please keep us all informed and I will do the same.

@Kirb You know, whatever you told your significant other you spent, they are just going to multiple it by at least 2 in their head. 😉 Tank looks very nice!

Whatever tank I put black bar endlers in, they breed. I just throw them in with some floating plants and suddenly there are fry, enough that the other fish don't impact their numbers in way that I'm concerned about. However, I don't tend to put them in with fast, voracious eaters like barbs. I've been keeping them with apistos, tetras, plecos, etc.

@Phill D Yes, but live, not dried. Although dried might work as well. Honestly, any aquatic moss will work. I just am able to source live sphagnum locally, and less expensively, than java moss for the amount I get. And I can propagate it myself, if needed, and it will over winter in my climate. (Also, the oak leaves are from my yard). This what my kerri tetra breeding setup looks like. Just started seeing some little ones venture above the moss/leaf layer in the past few days. Hoping there are many more to follow! Sometimes there is a dozen in there, hiding. Other times, there are many dozens.

Water params for apistos can also depend on whether or not they have been tank bred for generations or are wild caught, and which species. Many tank bred species are tolerant to a wide range of Kh/Gh. Either way, a low Kh is ideal for them. I also keep mine at close to 0dKh. If the water is evaporating and not overflowing out of the tub, then much of the Gh should remain in the water unless there are plants etc to utilize some of it over time. I don't think you need to do anything drastic if it lowers, maybe squirt some hose water in every once in a while to keep some Gh in the water (unless your hose water has a ton of Kh). I believe some species exist in the wild in water with close to no mineral content at all. I think rain water with leaves and twigs in it is the way to go.

Neocaridina species should be fine at those parameters. Caridina shrimp require (to be healthy and breed) a Ph below 7.0 (some much lower depending on type).

If you really want to drop the Ph, I would start with water that has little to no Kh. The impact of catalpa leaves or peat moss will have greater influence over water that has no buffering capacity. I find filling a box filter with Fluval peat granules works well (but its effectiveness is relative to your water's buffering capacity). I like the Fluval granules because they don't need to be rinsed for fine particles and don't change the water color much. But, you asked about catalpa leaves, so I can address those as well . . . . . When I use those for fish that like a low Ph, I just put in a bunch. I don't get shy with the amount. My feeling is there is no way to dial in Ph with leaves, you either affect it a lot or a little or somewhere in-between that. 🙂 I'd advise you to put a few in and test over the course of a week or two. Then adjust based on your readings. Keep in mind that water changes will reset the Ph a bit, if your water has an appreciable amount of Kh. For me, for fish that like to breed at a low Ph, I use a mix of buffering substrate and peat granules in a box filter. Then I put in some oak or catalpa leaves for 'ambiance' !

@Fish FolkI think you're right on the species. The blue doesn't seem real. Could have been tweaked in photoshop, or maybe its just an amazingly colored specimen.

@Dancing Matt apistogramma baenschi

Ok, I will admit it. I like Apistos . . .

@Chick-In-Of-TheSea The only other advice I'd have to give is the following: In my experience, certain egg-scattering species, like Odessa Barbs, will aggressively root around in any moss of plants or anything hunting for morsels to eat. In these situations, you will need to make a false bottom out of some kind of grate material. I use the plastic canvas-type grid you can find at hobby/crafting stores like Hobby Lobby or Micheals. Other species, like Kerri Tetras, are much more lackadaisical and don't go diving down into the moss searching for eggs or fry (at least in my experience, and if they do, they don't do it to an appreciable amount). So, just watch the behavior of your specific fish species and get used to its habits. If you're looking to intentionally breed these for fun or personal interest or to sell or trade, then just know it's ok to fail at the first couple (or more!) attempts. They key is to b observant, take notes (metal notes or on paper -- I'm more of a mental note kind of person), and just gain experience over time. If you are just looking to maybe get some fry survival in a community tank so you have a few more fish popping up every now and again, then make sure there is leaf litter, or piles of stones, or moss, or a carpet of something like chain-swords, where the fry have a chance of survival, hiding away until they are large enough to not get eaten. Some are bound to make it every now and then in those conditions. Good luck!