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betta fin rot


ka47
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Unfortunately i let my betta get pretty bad fin rot as this is the first time i’ve dealt with and it and didn’t really notice till it got pretty lethargic. Anyways, now it hasn’t eaten in almost two weeks and lays on its side however does swim around for a few seconds if lightly poked. About three weeks ago i started methylene blue dosages and would do 1/4 water changes a day with a full redosage of methylene blue every 4 days. A week later i added salt and did the same thing with those dosages. I was wondering if there’s anything more I can do for him and also here’s a photo of him on his side where he mostly relaxes at the top laying like this.

IMG_0621.jpeg

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I believe that methylene blue is used for fungal infections. Fin rot is usually caused by gram negative bacteria. Maracyn2 or kanaplex treat this. Current water parameters would be helpful for us as well. @Colu

 

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On 6/29/2024 at 3:35 AM, ka47 said:

Unfortunately i let my betta get pretty bad fin rot as this is the first time i’ve dealt with and it and didn’t really notice till it got pretty lethargic. Anyways, now it hasn’t eaten in almost two weeks and lays on its side however does swim around for a few seconds if lightly poked. About three weeks ago i started methylene blue dosages and would do 1/4 water changes a day with a full redosage of methylene blue every 4 days. A week later i added salt and did the same thing with those dosages. I was wondering if there’s anything more I can do for him and also here’s a photo of him on his side where he mostly relaxes at the top laying like this.

IMG_0621.jpeg

Two weeks without eating he become weak the prognosis doesn't look good methylene blue treats  fungal infections some protozoan parasite such as ich  what  I would do is  add Indian almond leaves as they have antibacterial and antifungal properties you might have to add one leaf per gallon to get a beneficial effect and do a course of maracyn2 as most case of fin rot are caused by gram negative bacterial infections even with treatment he might to weak to recover 

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On 6/28/2024 at 11:39 PM, Tony s said:

I believe that methylene blue is used for fungal infections. Fin rot is usually caused by gram negative bacteria. Maracyn2 or kanaplex treat this. Current water parameters would be helpful for us as well. @Colu

 

can i  test the water with the medication in it? also how would i go dosing the new medication would i just remove all the water and add fresh water ?

On 6/28/2024 at 11:54 PM, Nora Loves Corys said:

Your betta seems like it is having a hard time--it is usually a sign of advanced, untreatable disease when they stop eating and can't maintain their position in the water column. I am not sure that there is any additional treatment that will help, and I wonder how your fish's quality of life is. Here is a resource that has information about how to assess your betta's quality of life that might be helpful for considering options.

I'm very sorry about your fish.

thank you for the help. i feel so bad i shouodve caught it earlier

On 6/29/2024 at 7:26 AM, Colu said:

Two weeks without eating he become weak the prognosis doesn't look good methylene blue treats  fungal infections some protozoan parasite such as ich  what  I would do is  add Indian almond leaves as they have antibacterial and antifungal properties you might have to add one leaf per gallon to get a beneficial effect and do a course of maracyn2 as most case of fin rot are caused by gram negative bacterial infections even with treatment he might to weak to recover 

ok and how would often would i do water changes with those treatments? and considering those water changes how often would i redose

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On 6/30/2024 at 12:09 AM, ka47 said:

can i  test the water with the medication in it? also how would i go dosing the new medication would i just remove all the water and add fresh water ?

Yes, you can test parameters with meds in. You can also use Seachem prime to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite in case they climb to higher readings. As long as they stay down, I wouldn’t worry about a water change during treatment. But start the treatment with clean parameters. 

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Do a water change add two packets of maracyn2 per 10 gallons on day 1 on day 2 -5 add 1 packet of maracyn2 per 10 gallons day 6 water change with Indian almond just them to the tank they will start to leech beneficial tannins @ka47

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On 6/30/2024 at 6:27 AM, Colu said:

Do a water change add two packets of maracyn2 per 10 gallons on day 1 on day 2 -5 add 1 packet of maracyn2 per 10 gallons day 6 water change with Indian almond just them to the tank they will start to leech beneficial tannins @ka47

how big of a water change? and what does 5 add 1 mean exactly? also should i remove all other medication before adding the maracyn? i already added 6 almost leaves cause its 6.5 gallons if that’s good as well

On 6/30/2024 at 6:27 AM, Colu said:

Do a water change add two packets of maracyn2 per 10 gallons on day 1 on day 2 -5 add 1 packet of maracyn2 per 10 gallons day 6 water change with Indian almond just them to the tank they will start to leech beneficial tannins @ka47

On 6/30/2024 at 12:36 AM, Tony s said:

Yes, you can test parameters with meds in. You can also use Seachem prime to detoxify the ammonia and nitrite in case they climb to higher readings. As long as they stay down, I wouldn’t worry about a water change during treatment. But start the treatment with clean parameters. 

ok not great news. these are the test results and there seems to be a lot of ammonia i think the tank could be cycling as it was newly set up for this purpose. here are the results. should i buy seachem prime right now?

image.jpg

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2 options.

1. I’d start with a couple of large water changes. 50% at least. Remembering to add dechlorinator in after the last. Prime for that would be the best. When your ammonia is under 0.5 , I’d start your treatment. Then when you get ammonia above that, I’d use the prime again to detox the ammonia. That should last the entire treatment period. Especially with just one betta. 
 

2. If you have a clean 1 gallon bowl or bucket, you could put your betta in there and leave the tank to cycle by itself. If you just have the 1 betta to take care of, he’s not going to produce much waste. Clean water might actually help him more than anything else right now. Do the treatment in there.  If the heater will transfer, go ahead and move it too. But be careful the sensor is underwater or you’ll end up cooking your betta. Bettas can survive in room temperature. It’s uncomfortable for them, but most bettas do that before purchasing. If you can transfer an air stone that would be best. Bettas can also us atmospheric oxygen, but in your guys shape, he may not be able to.
 

If you’re going out to petsmart/ petco for the prime, grab a bottle of QuickStart or safestart bacteria and add to the tank. help it to cycle.

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On 7/1/2024 at 3:13 AM, ka47 said:

how big of a water change? and what does 5 add 1 mean exactly? also should i remove all other medication before adding the maracyn? i already added 6 almost leaves cause its 6.5 gallons if that’s good as well

Do a 50% water change I meant day 2 day 3 day 4 day 5 add one packet for 10 gallons with that level of ammonia I would be doing daily 50% water changes and add a double dose of prime to help detoxify any ammonia till it constantly stays at zero I wouldn't treat with maracyn2 till you get the ammonia under control otherwise the treatment won't be effective 

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On 6/30/2024 at 11:06 PM, Tony s said:

2 options.

1. I’d start with a couple of large water changes. 50% at least. Remembering to add dechlorinator in after the last. Prime for that would be the best. When your ammonia is under 0.5 , I’d start your treatment. Then when you get ammonia above that, I’d use the prime again to detox the ammonia. That should last the entire treatment period. Especially with just one betta. 
 

2. If you have a clean 1 gallon bowl or bucket, you could put your betta in there and leave the tank to cycle by itself. If you just have the 1 betta to take care of, he’s not going to produce much waste. Clean water might actually help him more than anything else right now. Do the treatment in there.  If the heater will transfer, go ahead and move it too. But be careful the sensor is underwater or you’ll end up cooking your betta. Bettas can survive in room temperature. It’s uncomfortable for them, but most bettas do that before purchasing. If you can transfer an air stone that would be best. Bettas can also us atmospheric oxygen, but in your guys shape, he may not be able to.
 

If you’re going out to petsmart/ petco for the prime, grab a bottle of QuickStart or safestart bacteria and add to the tank. help it to cycle.

would you say the second option is better? the medication is not arriving until the third anyways so what would you reccomend considering that

On 6/30/2024 at 11:25 PM, Colu said:

Do a 50% water change I meant day 2 day 3 day 4 day 5 add one packet for 10 gallons with that level of ammonia I would be doing daily 50% water changes and add a double dose of prime to help detoxify any ammonia till it constantly stays at zero I wouldn't treat with maracyn2 till you get the ammonia under control otherwise the treatment won't be effective 

ok so 50% a day and double dose of prime for the first day and do i keep adding a new dose every day when i do the water change?

do you guys think my betta has much of a chance considering how long he hasn’t eaten? i’m obviously going to do my best with the treatment but i was just wonderinh

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On 7/1/2024 at 9:23 PM, ka47 said:

do you guys think my betta has much of a chance considering how long he hasn’t eaten? i’m obviously going to do my best with the treatment but i was just wonderinh

Depends on his energy level. If he’s been sitting there for a week and doing nothing, it doesn’t look good. If you think he’s not going to make it, you have 2 options. Both your choice. Either way you need to get the ammonia down so he’s comfortable. First one, do nothing. Let him pass naturally. Second, when he’s passed the point of recovery. You can assist him and put him down. This is the humane choice, but it’s never easy. Nor should it be 

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On 7/1/2024 at 9:49 PM, Tony s said:

Depends on his energy level. If he’s been sitting there for a week and doing nothing, it doesn’t look good. If you think he’s not going to make it, you have 2 options. Both your choice. Either way you need to get the ammonia down so he’s comfortable. First one, do nothing. Let him pass naturally. Second, when he’s passed the point of recovery. You can assist him and put him down. This is the humane choice, but it’s never easy. Nor should it be 

he doesn’t really swim around but if touched he gets a lot of energy for like 5 seconds and he does move locations quite a bit but not really that i’ve seen but it’s definitely happening 

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On 7/2/2024 at 2:23 AM, ka47 said:

would you say the second option is better? the medication is not arriving until the third anyways so what would you reccomend considering that

ok so 50% a day and double dose of prime for the first day and do i keep adding a new dose every day when i do the water change?

do you guys think my betta has much of a chance considering how long he hasn’t eaten? i’m obviously going to do my best with the treatment but i was just wonderinh

Add a double dose on of prime with every water change do daily water changes to get your ammonia under control given the length of time he hasn't eaten prognosis isn't good with  clean water getting ammonia down might bring his appetite back 

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shoot i  forgot to get prime today ill have to get it tommrow. also should i wait till there’s no ammonia to dose maracyn or just under 0.5

On 7/2/2024 at 6:38 AM, Colu said:

Add a double dose on of prime with every water change do daily water changes to get your ammonia under control given the length of time he hasn't eaten prognosis isn't good with  clean water getting ammonia down might bring his appetite back 

won’t that stack up a lot? or is that good

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On 7/3/2024 at 2:42 AM, ka47 said:

shoot i  forgot to get prime today ill have to get it tommrow. also should i wait till there’s no ammonia to dose maracyn or just under 0.5

won’t that stack up a lot? or is that good

I would wait to dose maracyn2 till you have your ammonia under control otherwise the medication won't be effective it's a difficult one given his condition leaves it a couple of days with large water changes and daily testing to whether your cycle rebounds

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On 7/3/2024 at 6:48 AM, Colu said:

I would wait to dose maracyn2 till you have your ammonia under control otherwise the medication won't be effective it's a difficult one given his condition leaves it a couple of days with large water changes and daily testing to whether your cycle rebounds

does under control mean 0ppm? 

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Posted (edited)
On 7/4/2024 at 4:08 AM, ka47 said:

does under control mean 0ppm? 

For me I would want to get  to 0ppm as maracyn2 might cause a slight spike in your ammonia so getting it to zero would be the best option before starting treatment 

Edited by Colu
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On 7/4/2024 at 6:20 AM, Colu said:

For me I would want to get  to 0ppm as maracyn2 might cause a slight spike in your ammonia so getting it to zero would be the best option before starting treatment 

do i  need a medicine tank for maracyn like will it kill plants and shrimp? because i do have his tank he used to be in which did have ammonia but is now ammonia free

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On 7/5/2024 at 8:43 PM, ka47 said:

do i  need a medicine tank for maracyn like will it kill plants and shrimp?

it shouldn't kill either one. but if it's ammonia free you could move him there until his current tank stabilizes to zero ammonia

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On 7/5/2024 at 8:43 PM, ka47 said:

do i  need a medicine tank for maracyn like will it kill plants and shrimp? because i do have his tank he used to be in which did have ammonia but is now ammonia free

I personally would switch him to the other tank, but make sure you acclimate slowly and carefully. But yes agreed with @Tony s.

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On 7/6/2024 at 1:43 AM, ka47 said:

do i  need a medicine tank for maracyn like will it kill plants and shrimp? because i do have his tank he used to be in which did have ammonia but is now ammonia free

Maracyn and maracyn2 are both shrimp safe and shouldn't harm your plants if you have a hospital tank  that has zero ammonia I would move him and start treatment straight away 

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On 7/5/2024 at 10:15 PM, Colu said:

Maracyn and maracyn2 are both shrimp safe and shouldn't harm your plants if you have a hospital tank  that has zero ammonia I would move him and start treatment straight away 

it’s not really a hospital tank it’s his old ten gallon which used to have ammonia but doesn’t now but it has shrimp and plants that’s good for him?

On 7/5/2024 at 8:50 PM, Tony s said:

it shouldn't kill either one. but if it's ammonia free you could move him there until his current tank stabilizes to zero ammonia

would it be better to just keep him in that one for treatment? or would it be better to do it in the hospital tank?

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