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RODI drain line


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On 5/17/2024 at 11:54 PM, DBrown918 said:

I would do it after the p trap myself since the purpose of a p trap

I agree if possible. Depends on the length of run of the horizontal pipe section if it will even fit. @Cjbear087 anywhere below the horizontal pipe section is not really an option. That section would be fluid filled at all times. It’s what traps your sewer gas from coming up. I wanted to check a couple of my connections before commenting. the horizontal section is best. If there’s not enough room there, the galvanized pipe is about the only other place left. But that’s a whole other problem. You may have to get a plumber for that. 

Plumber may be able to reroute the horizontal piece so it adds enough length. Possible coming in from the side, and not straight back.

 

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On 5/18/2024 at 5:48 AM, Tony s said:

I agree if possible. Depends on the length of run of the horizontal pipe section if it will even fit. @Cjbear087 anywhere below the horizontal pipe section is not really an option. That section would be fluid filled at all times. It’s what traps your sewer gas from coming up. I wanted to check a couple of my connections before commenting. the horizontal section is best. If there’s not enough room there, the galvanized pipe is about the only other place left. But that’s a whole other problem. You may have to get a plumber for that. 

Plumber may be able to reroute the horizontal piece so it adds enough length. Possible coming in from the side, and not straight back.

 

I’ll take a picture of the horizontal bit later when I get home. I think that would be possible.

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I'd do it as a temporary thing and just put the waste water line in the sink above.  Then when you're done, put it all under the sink.  Wouldn't drill in your drain line, that's probably asking for trouble.

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On 5/18/2024 at 5:48 AM, Tony s said:

I agree if possible. Depends on the length of run of the horizontal pipe section if it will even fit. @Cjbear087 anywhere below the horizontal pipe section is not really an option. That section would be fluid filled at all times. It’s what traps your sewer gas from coming up. I wanted to check a couple of my connections before commenting. the horizontal section is best. If there’s not enough room there, the galvanized pipe is about the only other place left. But that’s a whole other problem. You may have to get a plumber for that. 

Plumber may be able to reroute the horizontal piece so it adds enough length. Possible coming in from the side, and not straight back.

 

Got a few pictures of the full pipe.

IMG_3817.jpeg

IMG_3816.jpeg

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Posted (edited)

Got a photo of this saddle your talking about? I vote NO on installing it AFTER the trap. If you do that you will be on the smelly side of things. If you install it BEFORE the trap it will be the same as draining it in the sink. Think about it when your not draining the RODI if the fitting were to come loose you would have a order in the house.

EDIT Turn your camera 

Airborne

Edited by Airborne 82nd
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What is underneath the sink?  Finished living space or basement with exposed plumbing?

 

I would not be very excited to drill into pipes to drain.  I would prefer the drain into the sink option as needed….unless you have access to exposed plumbing below the sink like in a basement…

On 5/18/2024 at 12:10 PM, Airborne 82nd said:

vote NO on installing it AFTER the trap. If you do that you will be on the smelly side of things. If you install it BEFORE the trap it will be the same as draining it in the sink

I agree, but there really isnt  any room before the trap here.

 

the metal tailpiece from the sink has the drain lifting mechanism and a saddle would likely interfere with it.

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Many sinks have a tailpiece that extends down into the trap.  If that is the case in this situation you will not likely be able to install a saddle before the trap.

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Remove two nut pull off trap 5 minutes. no more ifs ands or buts. most of the time no tools needed. Then you will see how far down the tail is and go from there. They are usually longer than they need to be. Think positive.

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Posted (edited)
On 5/18/2024 at 12:10 PM, Airborne 82nd said:

I vote NO on installing it AFTER the 

On 5/18/2024 at 12:14 PM, Pepere said:

I agree, but there really isnt  any room before the trap here.

 

Yeah, that’s what I’m seeing. The whole thing is just very tight. Not much room to do anything. And putting it past the nut on the horizontal doesn’t excite me either. That piece is the glued in permanent connection to your drain waste vent. I know plumbers are expensive but you’d have trained eyes looking at it. Or go with the hose end temporarily in the sink itself.  Third option, take and run your line sideways and back. Giving you room to add the saddle clamp. I wouldn’t worry about using a saddle clamp through the pipe. That pretty much standard procedure for any add ons.

Edited by Tony s
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Posted (edited)

Just let it drain into the sink.  Making and using this much RO is going to be a royal pain and you're probably going to want to quit within a month.  I'm not saying that to be mean or anything, but relaying personal experience.  It's A LOT easier to deal with if you haven't modified a bunch of permanent plumbing that's going to introduce leak points, etc.  

If you're still going hard on making 50 gallons of RO every day after six months, then maybe consider something more permanent?  

The actual act of changing water and making the RO (Where are you going to store it?  How are you going to shut it off when the barrel is full?  Where's the water inevitably going to overflow to when you forget to shut it off or the float switch fails? etc...) are 100x bigger of a deal than where the RO waste water drains. 

If you're worried that the drain needs to be BELOW the RO membrane - it doesn't.  Water pressure is pushing everything through the membrane, it doesn't need to drain like a siphon.  In other words... the RO unit can be under the sink hidden and the little drain hose can be coiled up and you can pop it up and into the sink as needed.

Edited by jwcarlson
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