How are folks using their InkBird (heater usually electrified or not)?

[Galabar]

I've set up my InkBird so that the heater is always electrified, relying on the heater to handle on/off cycles.  The InkBird is just a safety backup, in case the heater gets stuck on.

Is anyone doing the alternative of setting the heater higher than the desired temperature and having the InkBird electrify the heater only when the temperature falls to a certain level (InkBird handling on/off cycles)?

 

Edited March 11 by Galabar

[Pepere]

I use the inkbird as the controller and the heaters internal thermostat as a redundant safety.

I do it this way for a few reasons.

1.) I run a 2 degree variance with my Inkbird.  Ie it energizes the heater when the temp drops to 74 and deenergizes when the temp rises to 76.  This results in fewer cycles per day and the on time for the heating element is longer.  I suspect each heating cycle turning on and then off weArs in the element more than simply staying on for a longer period of time, and in the case of a bimetalic strip opening and closing contact in a greater, every time that contact opens there is a spark that erodes the contact….  Ie, I think running this way males the heater last longer.  Granted I use it to control co op style heaters with electronic switches and that is less of an issue..

2.). With the co op style heater, the internal clock for end of life display only accumulates time when the unit has power flowing in to it.

3.). I minimize the amount of time I have energized current carrying conductors immersed in my tank.  The heater is the only thing in my tank that has a wire carrying current.    If I look at the controller and see the tank temp is 75.8 I am much more likely to stick my hand in the water without unplugging the heater and just unplugging the canister filter.  I do admit it would be safer to unplug both and then make sure both are turned back on after,..

Those are my reasons for using the Inkbird as the controller… But I think it is great for people to use an Inkbird using either strategy.  Either way you get a backup thermostat to reduce the risk of overheating the tank…

[reefhugger]

Very good ideas on aspects I would never have considered.  Thank you.  I am going to make some changes.

[Lonkley]

I have the inkbird cut out at 80 in case the heater runs away. I keep my heater between 74 and 78 depending if I'm trying to encourage my guppies to breed. 

[quikv6]

I allow the heaters thermostat to do the work, and set the Inkbird as a failsafe, a few degrees higher than where the heaters are set. I run 2 heaters on one Inkbird, and set one heater lower than the other, so a single heater does the work.

The Inkbird is a failsafe if a heater thermostat sticks on, and the second heater is a failsafe if one heater fails in the off position.

The exception is one tank where I have a single Co-op heater (50w). I run that heater very high, and let the inkbird control the on/off cycles....but it is due to extreme inconsistency with the heater....as it reads anywhere from 4-8 degrees higher than actual temp. It heats fine, but just doesn't read correctly. The Inkbird allows me to use it with consistency.

[Pepere]

On 3/11/2024 at 7:08 AM, quikv6 said:

I run 2 heaters on one Inkbird, and set one heater lower than the other, so a single heater does the work.

The Inkbird is a failsafe if a heater thermostat sticks on, and the second heater is a failsafe if one heater fails in the off position.

When I get a 75 gallon, I intend to run 2 50 watt heaters controlled by one Inkbird.    That was if one 50 fails in the off position, the other one will continue to provide some heat even though the other has failed.  Considering that the room will be 70 degrees, 1, 50 watt should be able to keep the tank consistently above 73.

[Galabar]

Lots of interesting feedback.  Thank you all.  I've got a lot to think about now.

There seem to be pros and cons to each approach.

[MattyM]

In my 100g I set the heaters to around 80F and the inkbird to 76.5F with a 1 degree variance, as this is what the heaters themselves seem to use. 80F is warm but won't kill the fish and I'll get an alert on my phone if things go outside that range, or if the heaters have been on for too long (you can set the amount of time in the app). And I always have an extra heater on hand. This way I get the full benefits of using an inkbird. 

[quikv6]

On 3/11/2024 at 8:37 AM, Pepere said:

When I get a 75 gallon, I intend to run 2 50 watt heaters controlled by one Inkbird.    That was if one 50 fails in the off position, the other one will continue to provide some heat even though the other has failed.  Considering that the room will be 70 degrees, 1, 50 watt should be able to keep the tank consistently above 73.

That should be plenty of wattage. I have been using 2 -100Watt heaters on my 180 gallon, and it has no trouble maintaining 78 with a room temp of 67.

The only issue I have is that if I do an 80% change, I actually run out of hot water in my hot water heater, and then it will take a long time to bring it back up to temp. But on a 75, that shouldn't be an issue at all, unless you are doing large, cold water changes from an outdoor tap.