White Haze Bloom - what exactly is it

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

Currently I have a slight white haze goung in my aquarium and while I have delt with the haze in other aquariums in the past, I discovered I don't actually know what from a biological standpoint the white haze actually is.  In the past it typically goes away on its own in a few weeks, but this one is being a bit more stubborn hanging around for 3-4 weeks.  The aquarium is still quite new, maybe 2-3 months old.  Testing wise, things look fine.  I've been busy with work lately so for the past 2 weeks or so the nitrates have been running lower because I haven't been as good about remember to use Easy Green every 2-3 days.   I am curious if anyone has any tricks they have done to get past the hazy water phase of life hazy water phase of life, other than what I typically do (keep tabs on water specs, change water out 30 to 50% at a time as needed, and just wait it out, eventually it goes away...eventually...)

[MattyM]

That doesn't look too bad to me. If you're getting fry that might cause some more bacteria to grow. 

What does your filtration look like? Do you use anything like a polishing pad and/or Purigen? You may just have some fine particulate matter that needs to get filtered out, which is common in new planted tanks. 

[Guppysnail]

The white haze is usually heterotrophic bacteria eating up excess nutrients in your water column. Sometimes doing excess water change’s actually prolongs the haze since you are adding in more nutrients that are in tap water.  
 

Once there is not enough food in the water column for them they die off and your water clears.  Cutting out fertilizer and cutting back on commercial food helps shorten the time it takes to clear.  
 

Once there are more beneficial bacteria which grow slower but eat faster they will outcompete the heterotrophs for food. 

[Milliardo Peacecraft]

@MattyM Filtration wise I have the following on the 75 gallon aquarium.  A fluval C4 that has a course prefilter on the inlet followed by a dual layer filter pad that has course foam on one side and tighter filter floss on the other.  There is also biohome media and a bag of carbon in the filter.  Additionally there is a Fluval 306 canister filter that has 2 sets of dual layer medium sponge foam and tighter filter floss on it (pictured below).  There is also a medium tightness sponge foam filter in the canister along with 2 trays filled with biohome media.

One thing with the filtration, the HOB is on the left of the tank and the pickup for the canister is on the right with its discharge on the left side of the tank.  I use the heater as a breakwall of sorts to cut down on the blasting of the water out of the canister discharge.  I have the heater angled a bit so the water will hit it and be diverted upwards.  This way when the fish get into the current the just ride it up and over the heater and aren't blasted straight into it.  In fact a couple of them actually use it as a game, you can watch then do laps some evenings playing over and over riding the current across the back of the aquarium.  I have debated if I should move the heater a little further out from the discharge which would give more left to right flow in the aquarium to maybe mix things a little more.