Ujaynme

I use emry board meant for nails, they’re what I have on hand most of the time and provide the best grip to move around the wood’s curves

I do but I either sand the rough edges down or use aged wood from an older setup that has soften edges, the fish will rub against it chasing each other or lose scales trying to get to food under the edges.

I don’t think you’re wrong, but if you were the worst that happens is you crash your cycle and start doing daily water changes and dosing with prime until the tank is stable again. I also don’t answer big chain store employee questions with anything other they’re for my 75 gal. after one of them refused to sell me feeder fish and ghost shrimp when I told I was using them as feeders for turtles. Both were 25 cents at the time and labelled as feeders.

We, of the Black Thumbs Tribe, can only wish we had algae overgrowth problems.

It’s me, this is my most seasoned tank, the water is mostly stable, a afd died in there I didn’t get a an spike the water, just found the tiny bones as I was vacuuming under some wood pieces. I have root tabs and liquid fertilizers to feed the Anubis living in there now, and they do okay, just not the lush green paradise I dream of. I tried different plants overtime this list is from the last 3 years. As soon as I try to cultivate something it dies. i had green algae covering everything until I decided that the velvet covering looked good on the rocks and woods, then it disappeared within a month. It was a pain a scrub off my glass and rocks for about year before that. I also had black beard algae until I decided to keep some patches here and there as a grass clump like alt. the last clump disappeared this morning. I was hand picking them off the Anubis before that for about 3 months and was about to buy some A.shrimp My current wish is for the spot algae to completely cover the back wall and create a natural green background. Wish me luck as i embark on the start of this new relationship with algae.

In remembrance of all the plants that could have been part of the planted jungle tank dream, but have past to the next life. To the java moss that was meant cling and cover the driftwood, only to disappear tiny sprig by tiny sprig, to the moneywort that was meant to provide entertainment and cover for the frogs only that slowly melt into nothingness, to the duckweed that was just gone one morning never to return, to the Indian ferns that floated away into the great beyond stem by stem, to the banana plants that returned to the substrate to nourish the the brown sludge along the bottom of the tank, to the velvet green algae that once covered my rocks and wood only to leave me once my love for you developed, to the hair algae that use to gently wave at me from within the current of the filters providing beautiful green movement, and finally to the last of my black beard algae that would fringe the rocks and wave like graceful anemones as the fish swam around you, You will be missed, but I will continue forward until I find the plant(s) that was meant for me.

Do you know which post office branch will be delivering it? If you do you can ask them to hold it at the post office for you to pick up Saturday.

Just and quick question since this is the first time I’ve kept fancy goldfish. I had regular comets growing up. Should I take it as a sign they’re happy if they start leaving eggs all over the tank? I have 4 Oranda annd double tails on an 75gal. The eggs are not fertile they just go milky white and moldy if they don’t get eaten. Edited to add photo

He likes eating this brown stuff the most so I let it grow along the gravel and sand lines and just expose new sections every week.

Using test strips Water is nitrate 0-10ppm nitrite 0ppm hardness 300ppm buffer 80 - 120 ppm ph 7.6 ppm ammonia ? I don’t test for it temperature currently heated at 75F, I only heat in the winter, in the summer I leave it unheated and it ranges 68 - 76F filter is a hybrid under gravel/sponge setup. I attached sponge filters at various points on lift tubes. Tank is also lightly planted gravel and sand set up. With slightly tinted water from the wood.

I have 1 bumblebee otto in my tropical tank with honey guaramis, Cory’s, and ADFs for the last 2 years. I would like to be able to keep more but I don’t really know why the first one is still alive. Has anyone else been successful at keeping theses guys and can share care tips? i started with 2, and tried adding 3 more a year later, but the numbers returns to 1 after a couple of months. I don’t think it’s a food availability thing since they were the only ones in a 55 gallon at the time. I added 3 regular otts a couple of months ago and it hasn’t affected the remaining guy, he’s still fat and producing long solid poop strings. I don’t target feed him or see him eat any of the algae wagers I put in, he just eats the brown sludge around the tank and fuzz film off the wood when I’m watching.

New to keeping worms, not really culturing just keeping them alive with minimal effort, been following your journal for care ideas. I found they mine do well just eating yeast. They seem make a lot of babies with just yeast and water stays cleaner longer.

Results of drop test: Ph ~8.2 ammonia less than .25 nitrite between .25 and .5 nirates ~ 30 kh and gh I quit after 20 drops with no reaction I need help IDing this spot and what medication will be effective. He lives in a 55 long with 4 other sunsets and 3 baby peppered corys. Some plants no snails, they all just finish a round of quantine in ichx. I am trying to fix a nitrite spike before starting them on maracyn, since I’m currently running carbon and purigen to help lower it, plus daily 20% water changes. just noticed this on his head tonight, not sure if it’s body fungus or something else. It’s slightly raised but not fuzzy and not pulsing like ick, and I don’t see little thin lines floating from the spot. I’m not sure if the redness around the spot is inflammation or just regular coloring. Still eating and swimming like normal. Currently in a level 1 salt bath while i look for the right meds to treat. Not sure if I should put him back with the others if it’s bacterial and threat them all with maracyn. didn’t want to stress him out to much with handling but I’ll try for better pictures tomorrow. Edited to update: white mark is scale damage, just witnessed the honeys playing tag and pecking another little guy. He’s in the salt bath bucket with the first one while his head heals too.