Mmiller2001

The plants will be fine, they are probably loving it! Algae loves it too and and that's the problem. Yes, I would just do a low dose of an all in one until the tank gets situated. Just do a gravel vacuum and some good water changes. Try to hold Nitrates at 10ppm. If ammonia getd above 2ppm, do a water change and try to keep it below 2ppm. Don't start over unless that's just less work. You'll be fine, just need to lean out the nutrients until things get rolling.

If I read the above correctly, you used 12 root tabs correct? 12 root tabs in a 10 gallon tank is an insane amount 😁. I would do a massive and thorough gravel vacuum and a few 100% water changes if the above is true. Going forward, I would not use root tabs just "because", wait for signs of deficiency. Even then, root tabs are just not necessary.

Bubble counters are useless, they are only good for letting you know that CO2 is flowing through and out to the tank. My bubbles per second are uncountable. So you have a few options to work with. You will need to get an accurate pH and KH reading or measure the pH from a degassed to gassed state. If you go the pH and KH method, just use a CO2 chart but you will want your calculation to be a bit higher than the chart to account for the acidification from nitrification. While looking at this chart, let's assume your pH is 6.6 and KH is 4dKH. You will notice that you are in the red with 30.1ppm CO2. However, that's where you want to be do to to other acid sources. If you were at a pH of 6.7 and 4dKH, I would say you are low on CO2. The most accurate way is to measure pH drop. You will take a sample of the tank water and let it sit out for 12 to 24 hours. After, pH that sample and record the pH. Then, once CO2 has been injecting about 2 hours, measure the pH. You are looking for a 1 to 1.5pH drop. My tanks are solid at a 1.2pH drop. If I go higher, I begin seeing signs of stress. You want excellent surface agitation and surface skimming really helps as well. You want to supply as much O2 as possible while gassing off CO2 at a high rate. The better the gas off, the harder you can push CO2 and create a stable curve while injecting. Any time you adjust CO2 up, you must be available to watch the fish. I would check pH every 15 minutes when dialing in my tanks and always on a day off when I could watch the tank. If the KH is stable, you will always know where you are just by taking a pH reading. But a KH that changes will also change the pH readings, so be aware of this possibility. I run 0dKH, there for I always know my 4.9 to 5.1pH is where I need to be. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why

It will not. If you reduce plant load a bit, drop nutrients just a bit. I always water change after big plant cutting.

It's not the same. Flourish is a supplement. It's made up of mostly micros and an insignificant amount of NPK.

How do you mean? I'm confused on the question.

Just pull the plant out, cut the top portion you want and simply replant it. I just toss the unwanted portions in the outside gardens.

For sure. H202 absolutely wrecks BGA. And the antibiotics hits your BB. Usually causing a mini cycle or a full on cycle crash.

Stop, don't do it. Just remove what you can manually and then spot dose hydrogen peroxide. Turn off all pumps and air, let the water settle to near zero movement. Use 15ml per 10 gallons drawn up in a syringe. Simply squirt directly on the BGA. Wait about 15 minutes while it bubbles. Then simply turn everything back on. You can repeat this process every 24 hours.

Truth be told, only but a few plants really need true high light. But to answer your question, and if you have those plants, CO2 injection is how it's done. If you bump up light intensity, I would drop light duration to 8 hours. More light requires more nutrients and more CO2.

I will second @gjcarew, and add, hope you have more than one pair!

Thank you.

Who knows, I battled it for a good while and cutting the plants way back cleared it. I'd imagine tank stability and improved health is the cause and the single dose was a coincidence.

Some Causes are High flow areas Fluctuating CO2 An abundance of organics in the tank Overall poor plant health Dead spots in circulation I would increase the turnover in the tank but try to create subtle or indirect flow. Spray bars work well to reduce flow but keep high turnover. Increase water changes to keep organics down and make sure mulm isn't building up. Make sure plants are in good health. Remove yellowing and dying leaves when needed.

Probably what's happening is that the iron is getting locked out from the high pH. The high pH is a result of a higher KH. I would grab a bottle of Seachem Iron, it's in a ferrous state and should help. Dose per directions along with the EG dosing. I would dose the iron on alternating days from EG dosing. If you can, I would increase water changes. Example, 50% per week or 25% per week. This will help with just keeping the tank fresh and a balanced nutrient load from dosing versus NO3 from the live stock. You want to make sure that potassium and phosphorous are in good balance. Your live stock can not cover all the Macro and Micro elements needed.

How many pumps each week of easy green?

What size is the tank? What's the GH and KH?

Inline water pump

No, and you could run the spray bar via an inline pump.

It will be better co2 distribution and you can also aim it at the surface to increase service agitation. It's everything you want when you're injecting CO2. For a 17 gallon tank, a regular lilly pipe should be fine. I don't try to get my plants moving. I just want good, evenly distributed co2 through and around plants. Here's mine in action. https://youtu.be/6XzZphKmWsk

I use this, each section can be adjusted 360⁰ and you can buy more sections to reduce flow or remove sections to increase. Eheim 4005310 Spray Bar Set for 594 Tubing https://a.co/d/1UGmztl Has a quick release too. And prime access.

What filter do you have? And tubing diameter?

I've tried them all. There's just no substitute for a spray bar. But yes they will distribute CO2 just fine with proper placement.

My experience was no melt any time I changed nutrients. But it definitely didn't like being moved. If I moved it, it'd through flowers. Cut those flowers off and it would get back to leaf production. It definitely did not like Eco Complete, so I'd imagine something finer is better.

Throw a picture up please. This sounds interesting.