Mmiller2001

I'm jealous for sure! I'm bit of a fan boy 😁. I've read his entire website and he definitely helped me with my own tanks. Are you going out to Chicago for this years AGA?

https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/ph-kh-gh-tds/kh-explained

It's not the calcium causing problems. It's the chelate used at higher pH.

It's super easy. Completely untrue. It's similar to getting a new phone. Your eyes just need to get familiar with where to look. All you need to know is how much you want to raise KH and how many gallons/ liters you are dosing. And after that, a set of measuring spoons.

I would stay away from both of those. I would get potassium carbonate. CellarScience - AD640LB Potassium Carbonate (lb) https://a.co/d/c0gmN50

KH is not calcium. It's a carbonate or bicarbonate. And phosphorous, but that's a very different scenario.

Are you trying to increase GH and KH? Or raise or lower GH KH individually?

Still, pH fluctuations do not harm fish. I would suspect a bacterial infection. Maybe the reason causing the pH to change, but not the pH specifically and still my guess would be disease related.

This. I will only add; DPTA chelated iron would be better with a pH of 7.0.

I can guarantee you that a pH change of 1 over a few days did not kill your fish. PH changes do not harm fish. My pH changes by 1.2 twice a day and within a few hours. I would look else where for a reason.

Sticking with the chihiros. I'm going to drop everything by 3/4 initially. So light and nutrients a quarter of what they are now. I will start with a 12 hour light schedule with long ramp up and down.

It also adds calcium which is a component of GH. I see it as a source of instability.

You will need a liquid fertilizer regardless of the substrate you use

75. The 40 will be my high light competition tank.

In your previous post, you indicated GH was 18dGH?

You actually want plenty of surface agitation. You want to off gass CO2 at a good rate and increase O2 in the tank. By off gassing CO2 at high rates, you will be able to push a faster rate of CO2. Which in return keeps more consistent CO2 levels. If off gassing CO2 is low, you have a higher chance of gassing your livestock. You also will have fluctuating CO2 with poor gass exchange. This explains it quite well with graphs. https://www.2hraquarist.com/blogs/choosing-co2-why/how-to-push-the-limits-of-co2-safely

I will quote my favorite aquarist. "Sometimes, it's best to only invite those who enjoy the soup you serve." Don't be afraid to toss plants that don't work in your setup.

I will be removing all the current plants and replace them with the above list and a few others I'm looking at. If I can convince my wife to let me swap the substrate back to sand, it will be a complete redo.

Black out the sides of the tank as well and find I nice tall plant to use as a curtain. Maybe something like this?

Typically, your regulator will allow you to increase injection by a lot. If yours doesn't, you will need a different one, or reduce light intensity. However, reducing light intensity my be counter productive. I know @Seattle_Aquarist runs CO2 lower, around 15ppm and keeps his running 24 hours a day. I'd imagine he will be able to offer some help. From the pictures, you definitely have nutrient issues. I would start with dropping light intensity some and going about 8 hours a day no more. Also, try to pick a nutrient line that actually tells you what is being dosed. Fixing CO2, light and nutrients is going to make an improvement. You can "dial in" later. One problem, and we might be seeing it here, along with other problems, is that you may be a bit low on light for AR down at the lower levels of the tank. It's important not to get discouraged. Just focus on correcting these easy issues. You will get results and be better motivated to press into the more complicated issues.

Unfortunately, this tank was decommissioned and the journal stopped. It was a short journal too. I asked him how he did it, but no response yet 😐. He did have a plant list though.

Fingers crossed, I've had zero success with Java and Anubia. I think the secret is in the light. I don't know how he got the overhanging look either.

Thank you. I came to a decision on the 75 gallon and I will update a final picture after it's most recent haircut grows back in. Lately, other projects have taken a big chunk of my time and managing 3 tanks has to change. So I'm going to move to a lower tech, lower light set up. I've never been able to grow Anubias and I'm going to take on low light plants. In fact, low light plants are extremely challenging, for me, and I'm going to learn. I found this tank and I'm going to attempt to recreate it. This is hands down one of the most amazing tanks I've ever seen and illustrates how beautiful low tech can be. This tank just blows me away and I constantly revisit photos of it. The 40 gallon has taken shape and I will have an AGA submission. There's just one plant I'm questioning, but overall, with amazing help from @gjcarew, it's come a long way. In fact, with him, there would be no submission. I can't post pictures, as that has become taboo. @gjcarew could probably explain more 😁. I think after judging, I can post pictures. Here's the tank I want to try and recreate.Absolutely amazing.

You have 3 weeks, you can do eet!

Please do!